Progress Thread Therapy Car-- Freshening Up the Lower Intake

Here's the game plan for freshening up the rear end.
Shocks (I have KYB AGX on the front. I guess I'll go with that on the back unless someone changes my mind)
Quad Shocks (any recommendations?)
All new bushings including spherical bushings (I already have all of this except the spherical bushings)
Springs and isolators (I have the isolators)
Wheel bearings and seals (already have all of this)
New differential oil
ARP axle bolts
Drop the rear and clean everything up. Its covered in surface rust.
Lower control arms
Replace and worn or bad fasteners
Rebuild Trac-Loc

Anything I'm missing or should consider?
 
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That connector has me puzzled then ???

The quad shocks help wheel hop with the soft factory lower control arm bushings. Like stated...they can be removed if using aftermarket lower control arms...helps to fit a wider wheel in the rear.

I also vote to replace the clutches in the traction loc rear. Nothing like one wheel peel.
 
Got it. Traction lock and lower control arms.

Not getting the quad shocks will just about, if not, pay for the LCA.

The wheels and tires are what they are for now. In a year or two I plan on upgrading to 5 lug and rear disk. The current combo will get me around until I pull the trigger on that project.
 
Just ordered a new yoke, transmission seal and bushing, u-joints, and driveshaft bolts. I really dont want to break out $200 for a bushing puller, but its starting to look that way.

I'd really like to get the leak fixed and drive the car a bit this fall while I buy everything I'll need to redo the rear suspension and differential. I know a lot of guys are already putting their cars up due to cold weather, but down here it's finally about to be perfect for riding around with the windows down. The last couple of months have been brutal here.
 
why not drain the pan and just pull the housing off the end of the transmission?? I just did my bushing with no special tools.. you can use a long socket extension and tap the old bushing out from the inside. The new one I used a large washer and carefully tapped it in with a small hammer, I started the bushing in with a block of wood so not to damage it.
 
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Thats not a bad idea. The fancy tool makes it a quick job, but for the price it's hard to justify. Looking around it looks like taking the tail shaft off is pretty straight forward. Disconnect the speedo cable, remove the shifter, drift the pin, remove 8 bolts, start pulling the tail shaft housing, be careful not to loose the ball, spring, and pin in the shifter, change the seal and bushing, put it back together. Does that sound about right? This would be a good time to change my speedo gear as well. It says I'm doing about 85 when I'm really only going 55 or 60.
 
If I had a lift in my shop, id just pull the trans. Yeah, you have to remove the exhaust, but it’s make it easier to work on getting that tailshaft off, and it would give you time to give everything a good cleaning.
I’ve never removed the tailshaft while on a car, but on the bench, it was pretty easy! And yes..... don’t lose that ball!!!
 
Got a good bit done over the weekend. To start with my father-in-law surprised me with a late birthday present.

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This will do pretty much everything I'll want to do for a long time. So, with the car I decided to just pull the tail housing as suggested and remove the bushing. I probably could have finessed the two bolts out from the front of the shifter cover, but I figured they would be a pain in the ass to put back in so I went ahead and pulled the center console to get down to the shifter. Either way it worked fine. Next I got under the car and pulled the h-pipe. Everything came off pretty easy.

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Drained the oil then pulled the cross member.

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Then off with the tail housing!

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I messed around for a bit trying to get the old bushing out. It didn't want to budge. Then I realized that there is a grove under the bushing where it could be cut without the risk of messing up the tail housing. Out came the sawzall and a hacksaw blade. The bushing never stud a chance!
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I ordered the new bushing a seal from Rock Auto and they came in over the weekend. The new seal is a lot longer than the old one and the new busing is split with one oil grove circling it from top to bottom. The old bushing had two oil groves and was not split. I don't want to put in a cheap bushing that I'm just going to have trouble with. I also noticed that there is a spot on the new bushing that is already scared. I'm going to send pics to Rock Auto and I'm sure they will just give me a refund.

Anybody got a good recommendation on a quality bushing and seal? Other wise I'm just going to get one from LMR or Summit.
 
Here is what the new bushing looks like.
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You can see the ruff spot in the pic.

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and the old one.
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Here's the old and new seal. You can see the new one looks a lot different.

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On a side note. Looking up through the transmission tunnel where the shifter go through. It looks like someone cut to make the hole wider at some point. As far as I know this car has always been a manual, but I guess maybe someone put an auto in it at one point. Or maybe just a different manual. I wouldn't be surprised by anything.
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