Progress Thread Therapy Car

Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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For anyone that is interested, this is what my issue was with wiring up the keyless entry and how I sorted it out. The first thing you have to do is locate the door lock wiring harness behind the drives side kick panel. I've seen in at least one other post where someone was able to dig the wires out by removing the dash speaker on the drivers side. I had my dash off to work on the heater core and AC evaporator, so the wires were right there easy to get to. My car has been through a lot in the past, so there is some sketchy wiring in a few places. It already had keyless entry installed in it at one point, but all that was removed. The wires were already cut so I didn't have to worry about cutting them or not. This is a picture showing the wiring harness you are looking for.

Door locks Wiring Harness.jpg

The wires you will need to cut into are the pink/light gray(lock) and pink/yellow(unlock). My wires were already cut so it narrowed the search down. Just to verify things I stuck a needle into the wire first so that I could use a multi-meter to check for continuity then to verify voltage when you hit the lock unlock button. I didn't take a picture of that. These are the wires that you need to cut or tie into.

Lock Unlock wires.png

This is how the relays need to be wired up.
1551812172352.png

In this diagram the pink/light gray wire is represented by the green wire and the pink/yellow wire is represented by the pink wire. Terminal 87 needs to be able to carry the load of the circuit when energized. It needs to be a decent gauge wire, I used 14 gauge, and it needs to be fused. I used a 14 amp fuse. If you wire terminals 30 and 87a backwards you will create a dead short and, if you are using a fuse, blow the fuse or if you are not using a fuse you will burn up the switch and possibly the lock actuator solenoid.

Relay power supply.png
The previous owner already had one of those clamp on jumpers attached further down in the wiring harness on the black/white wire. This wire is always hot when the battery is connected. The connection looked good so I went ahead and used it to supply voltage to both 87 terminals and 85 and 86. You'll have to look at how the outputs work on your keyless entry to determine if it is sending a negative signal or positive signal. I think most will provide either signal depending on how you decide to use it. In my case I used the negative signal, so terminal 85 on the unlock relay receives a negative signal from the keyless entry to trigger the relay. Terminal 86 receives a negative signal on the lock relay. This wiring diagram is specific for a keyless entry sending a negitive trigger signal. If you are using a unit that is sending a positive trigger signal you will have to wire it up a little different. If you need that wiring diagram just send me a message or you can find it on "the 12 Volt" I am running power to the keyless entry receiver from a different source. Its coming off the brake light relay and has a 7.5 amp fuse on it.

I think I covered all the bases. Hopefully this will help someone down the road. My car is a 92 other year models might use different color wires.
 

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Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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The heater lines on my intake were on the brink of rusting through so I changed it out. The new one I got from LMR came with sealent already on the threads or at least that's what I thought the red stuff was. Anyway, it's been put together for a while now but I noticed last night it appeared to be leaking. I'm afraid to of over tightening. Should I have used teflon tape on this fitting?

20190306_214928.jpg
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Olivethefet

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Thanks for the link! Honestly it looks like it is leaking at the joint not the manifold connection. I went ahead and took it loose at the manifold last night. That's a real bummer if it is. I have had this thing for a couple of month, so I don't think I can return it to LMR. Real problem is if I have to take it off I'll have to put the upper plenum off. That means another $20 intake gasket, and the time it takes to clean the upper and lower. You cant get that piece out from under the BBK SSI intake with out removing the upper plenum. I'm going to put Teflon tape on it tonight, put it back together, and cross my fingers that it fixes it!
 

Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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Got to give credit where credit is due. I emailed LMR about my issue along with the pic of the seepage. They got right back and agreed with the repair strategy. Good thing is they agreed that if it does not fix it they will replace the heater lines and the gasket. Doesn't change the fact that I have to take it all apart again but it's still great customer service.
 

Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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So far the teflon is working. Biggest headache of taking the dash down has been the tape on the factory wiring harness falling apart like crazy. It has turned into flaky goo that is getting all over the new carpet and everything else. I'm going to have to deep clean the front 9f the car!
 

stanglx2002

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Yeah the factory wiring tape is an absolute mess to work with...keep a shop vac close to suck up the pieces so they don't stick to your carpet.
 

Olivethefet

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May 17, 2018
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The dash is back up! Everything under the hood is back together. Test fired it this morning and I started with no issues. Heater line hasn't started leaking again. Now the radiator hose is leaking where it slips over the thermostat housing. I think this will go away when I get it out and run it a bit. I am using the old factory clamp. Do those wear out? It was fine until I took it loose to fix the heater line. The hose is new. I also got the door lock actuators riveted in properly. They were being held in with a nut and bolt. Didn't work very well.20190310_143642.jpg

20190310_143650.jpg

20190310_143719.jpg
 

kendawg73

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Got to give credit where credit is due. I emailed LMR about my issue along with the pic of the seepage. They got right back and agreed with the repair strategy. Good thing is they agreed that if it does not fix it they will replace the heater lines and the gasket. Doesn't change the fact that I have to take it all apart again but it's still great customer service.
I hope I don't have a issue with mine...(I know it wont leak on the treads, I used the brush on Teflon tape stuff) I have the LMR on mine too.. I got to run the car yet.... this spring/summer if all goes right...
 

Olivethefet

Active Member
May 17, 2018
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Enterprise AL
Got the radiator clamps swapped out, no leaks! Still no leaks at the heater to manifold connection. Also, finished wiring up the keyless entry. I can now lock and unlock the car and pop the hatch remotely with the ignition key off. 20190314_205602.jpg

20190314_205640.jpg
The purple yellow wire goes to the truck latch solenoid. I didn't install the clamp on wire connectors they were already there. It's odd the way it was previously wired up. If the key is not on pushing the trunk release button will not open the hatch, or at least not on my car. Is that right or should it work? Anyway I used a single pole double throw relay because that's what I had. Pulled 12 volts from the glovebox light going to terminals 86 and 87. Purple yellow wire went to terminal 30. Negative trigger from keyless entry went to 85.

I'm not going to mess with it now but at some point down the road I think I'll wire up the windows so I can roll them down remotely.

Now it's time to put the interior back together.

Oh and this happened.

20190312_171047.jpg

I really liked that truck.:(
 

Rdub6

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Dec 29, 2017
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Got the radiator clamps swapped out, no leaks! Still no leaks at the heater to manifold connection. Also, finished wiring up the keyless entry. I can now lock and unlock the car and pop the hatch remotely with the ignition key off. 20190314_205602.jpg

20190314_205640.jpg
The purple yellow wire goes to the truck latch solenoid. I didn't install the clamp on wire connectors they were already there. It's odd the way it was previously wired up. If the key is not on pushing the trunk release button will not open the hatch, or at least not on my car. Is that right or should it work? Anyway I used a single pole double throw relay because that's what I had. Pulled 12 volts from the glovebox light going to terminals 86 and 87. Purple yellow wire went to terminal 30. Negative trigger from keyless entry went to 85.

I'm not going to mess with it now but at some point down the road I think I'll wire up the windows so I can roll them down remotely.

Now it's time to put the interior back together.

Oh and this happened.

20190312_171047.jpg

I really liked that truck.:(
Oh man! Everybody ok?
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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That sucks. Glad everyone was ok.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Glad everyone is good after that hit!
Yeah the only things that work with the key off are the lights and door locks.
I think
I'm absolutely sure maybe
 

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