Progress Thread Therapy Car-- Freshening Up the Lower Intake

Ooohhh-ooohh
I've got one:ohoh:
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This guy drives this all over the place just as you see it. No filter, and other than some v8 from the sound of it I got no clue what's in it.
 
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Haven't done much with the car lately. Lots of stuff going on with work and moving. I'm so ready for all this stuff to be done so we can settle in and move on. The shop finally showed up and is starting to look like a shop!
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Finally got the car out of the garage this afternoon and took it around the block. I've got to get it to a shop for an alignment. The brakes are soft so I need to bleed the system. Thought I had it sorted out, but obviously needs more work. The temp shot up just going around the block but if figured it would have air in the system. It did. Got the air out and it ran nice and cool. Considering all the things that have been changed or replaced since it last moved under it's own power it's no surprise that it's not ready to go cruising. The power steering was kinda whiny and jerky at first but it smoothed out pretty quick.

I did not use the Ford power steering fluid when I put everything back together. Since doing that I've read on here that the stuff at the parts store doesn't always work well in the older Fords. If it gives me trouble I guess I'll try flushing the system and putting Ford fluid in.

Everything in the power steering system is new except the pump. I rebuilt the pump. When I put the new fluid in it was almost clear. After just running it to work the fluid in I noticed that the fluid changed to a gray color. Is this normal or do i need to flush it?
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I used O'reillys brand power steering fluid. The hoses all came from LMR along with the rebuild kit. The rack came from Rock Auto.
 
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Got the brakes sorted out this afternoon. Back brakes were not completely bleed out. Half my lug nuts are in rough condition. Decided to get some replacements. O'Reilly's was the only place in town that had any. They only had 10. More will be here tomorrow at lunch.
 
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My car sat for several years before I bought it. I noticed awhile back that there is a ticking sound coming from around the number 4 cylinder. Pretty sure it's a lifter sticking. I'm not a tech so I dont have a lot of experience diagnosing issues like this. Any advice on what to check or products that could help it out would be great. The BBK intake makes it impossible to remove the valve cover without removing the upper part of the intake. I plan on going through the motor or having it gone through at some point but not any time soon.
 
The only thing I've actually seen take a lifter tap out of anything is the BG engine treatment.

I don't really believe in additives though. If it was my car I'd pull it apart and replace all the lifters.

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Finally got the car out of the garage this afternoon and took it around the block. I've got to get it to a shop for an alignment. The breaks are soft so I need to bleed the system. Thought I had it sorted out, but obviously needs more work. The temp shot up just going around the block but if figured it would have air in the system. It did. Got the air out and it ran nice and cool. Considering all the things that have been changed or replaced since it last moved under it's own power it's no surprise that it's not ready to go cruising. The power steering was kinda whiny and jerky at first but it smoothed out pretty quick.

I did not use the Ford power steering fluid when I put everything back together. Since doing that I've read on here that the stuff at the parts store doesn't always work well in the older Fords. If it gives me trouble I guess I'll try flushing the system and putting Ford fluid in.

Everything in the power steering system is new except the pump. I rebuilt the pump. When I put the new fluid in it was almost clear. After just running it to work the fluid in I noticed that the fluid changed to a gray color. Is this normal or do i need to flush it?
20190419_200412.jpg
I used O'reillys brand power steering fluid. The hoses all came from LMR along with the rebuild kit. The rack came from Rock Auto.

I believe it calls for Type F ATF in the power steering system.
 
The only thing I've actually seen take a lifter tap out of anything is the BG engine treatment.

I don't really believe in additives though. If it was my car I'd pull it apart and replace all the lifters.
Thanks for the advice! I'm with you on the break it down and replace the lifters approach. I've had the car for almost a year now and put, for me, a lot of time and money in it. Really just want to get a little fun time in! Then break it apart this fall/winter. What's the worst case scenario if I wait to replace the lifters for awhile and it gets worse?

I believe it calls for Type F ATF in the power steering system.

Yeah with ya on that one too. The stuff I put in it claims it's good for all domestic and import cars. Wasn't sure if these cars are a little pickier! After running it a little more it seems better. If it doesn't clear up I'll hunt down some genuine Ford type F and flush the system! Thanks for the reply!
 
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Thanks for the advice! I'm with you on the break it down and replace the lifters approach. I've had the car for almost a year now and put, for me, a lot of time and money in it. Really just want to get a little fun time in! Then break it apart this fall/winter. What's the worst case scenario if I wait to replace the lifters for awhile and it gets worse?



Yeah with ya on that one too. The stuff I put in it claims it's good for all domestic and import cars. Wasn't sure if these cars are a little pickier! After running it a little more it seems better. If it doesn't clear up I'll hunt down some genuine Ford type F and flush the system! Thanks for the reply!

NP ...... I recently replaced some PS hoses and topped off with the F/ATF. Not sure if that’s what was in it. It’s on the list to flush it and get all new in there. But for now, my leak has stopped!
 
Got the car to the shop for an alignment. Hopefully they get it done quick. It'll be nice having it back on the road for awhile. Then it will be time to tackle the rear suspension.

@General karthief I think you might be on to something with the exhaust leak. I'll look into it when the car gets back. Any recommendations on how to diagnose it? The simplest way, I would think, would to try to feel around back there to see if you can feel exhaust leaking. Maybe that's exactly how to do it. Thought I would ask though. Didn't think to do it before taking it to the shop.
 
You should be able to see black soot marks on the header flange of where the leak is coming from. This is only if you have a something more than just a really small leak.
 
I will guarantee you will not be able to feel the leak, all you'll feel is silly when you're explaining to the er nurse that the rest of the skin on those fingers are still stuck on that header tube, just look for the one that's still smoke'n.
take a 'mirror on a stick' and look around the header flange gasket area and where the tubes connect to the flange
 
Shop just called. The alignment is done, and they checked all my shade tree amateur hour stuff. Had a couple of hose clamps that needed to be tightened up, but other than that everything was good. I asked them to take a look at the sticky lifter/exhaust leak. They said it was an exhaust leak and it appears that the drivers side header has two gaskets on it. They said that is a common trick to get a warped header to seal. Is this a common practice? Anyway, they said the leak on the passengers side is small and shouldn't hurt anything. I plan on driving it a bit before fixing it. Please advise if this is a bad plan. I've changed header gaskets before and I have good access to the bolts on the passengers side.