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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

those with Weight Jacker lowers and adjustable uppers ENTER

  • Thread starter Thread starter stonegod85
  • Start date Start date Jan 18, 2006
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stonegod85

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Mar 30, 2005
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Columbia, South Carolina
Jan 18, 2006
#1
  • Jan 18, 2006
  • #1
i just got my weight jacker adjustable lower and double adjustable upper control arms with sperical rod ends installed and they sound HORRIBLE!!! they bind soooo bad...sounds like a hammer hitting the under part of the stang. anybody know what's up here?
 

back_in_black

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Apr 12, 2003
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frederick, MD
Jan 18, 2006
#2
  • Jan 18, 2006
  • #2
subscribing
 

tomustang

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Founding Member
Jun 8, 2000
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Jan 18, 2006
#3
  • Jan 18, 2006
  • #3
go back to stock UCA's, practically everything out there sucks, you can't really improve in functions of the upper arms
 
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MatthewP

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Jan 19, 2006
#4
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #4
Mine bang a little too, but I also run a spool so it's hard to tell exactly what is banging on the thing! I ran the same control arm setup as you all year last year with no problems though, so I wouldn't get too worried about it. If you are really worried, switch to bushings instead of the spherical ends.

-Matthew
 

hotrodnut

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Jul 12, 2004
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North Florida
Jan 19, 2006
#5
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #5
Mine are fine, did you put the supplied lube on the sides of the lower arm bushings before installing or did you lube the fittings? If you lubed the fittings after they are installed and put too much in them it is possible to mess up the bushing itself too.

The stock bushings are plyable rubber and are stationary at the mounting points, where the bolt goes thru due to the teeth in the inner metal bushing being clamped (pinched) to the chassis mounting bracket and rubber being bonded to the outer metal shell which is pressed into the stock control arm. So, this design actually has no moving parts, so to speak in the up and down movement of the arms, just the rubber flexing/twisting. The lowers you installed does have the bushings moving inside the control arm and/or the inner metal sleeve that is used for the bolt that attaches it to the chassis. That moving bushing, if moving with the arm, will cause the binding in the chassis mount and cause your noise.

The uppers with the sperical ends are probably not the cause of the noise although the factory design does induce bind at extreme suspension movement limits. I installed mine so I could correct the pinion angle after getting the ride height where I wanted it. I kept the stock bushing on the housing end of the uppers though so as to limit the amount of bind that a stiffer bushing would give in the up and down travel. The stiffer bushings will help with lateral stability but I installed a panhard bar to correct that problem.
 
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billyfe390

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Aug 18, 2003
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Jan 19, 2006
#6
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #6
stonegod85 said:
i just got my weight jacker adjustable lower and double adjustable upper control arms with sperical rod ends installed and they sound HORRIBLE!!! they bind soooo bad...sounds like a hammer hitting the under part of the stang. anybody know what's up here?
Click to expand...

Totally normal noise.

The hammering you hear with solid ends is why the factoy uses the soft rubber.

Its not binding its just that there is nothing to take the shock of the rapid axle movements to you hear it in the body.
 

stonegod85

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Jan 22, 2006
#7
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #7
billyfe390 said:
Totally normal noise.

The hammering you hear with solid ends is why the factoy uses the soft rubber.

Its not binding its just that there is nothing to take the shock of the rapid axle movements to you hear it in the body.
Click to expand...


well then why are people like hotrodnut and others i know not having this issue...hmmm answer me THAT! haha...well we raised the stang and looked everything over...we unbolted the lowers from the bushing end (not torque box side) and they didn't even move...they just held them selves up. so we were like, what the heck? we then tried to move them around and man were they stiff (not normal for a ball joint, which should move freely not to mention it should've swung down after unbolting it). we took the arm out and in order to move the joint we had to break it loose by putting it in a vise grip (definitely not normal). we then proceeded to the uppers after installing the factory lowers. SAME PROBLEM...it's like the ball joints just seized up on us. they wouldn't move an inch, and the driver side was worse than the passenger side. we began to jack the diff up and every pump we heard it bang and it was only coming from that driver side. we took it out and behold the same problem (seized up ball joint). the passenger was not as bad but it wasn't moving as freely as it should. so all factory arms are back in and know noise ofcourse. We sent them back to GMS and they are supposed to be sending a new set....we bought through a company called Mojo Motorsports (an ebay middle man for GMS) and they SUCK!! worst customer service EVER! I found out through GMS that they have been under investigation by GMS...so they were more than willing to replace everything (but Mojo would not). As far as "supplied lube", nothing like that was included...not even good packaging (the box was falling apart). It is obvious to me now that the arms we were sold were compromised by this company somehow. SOOOO anyways, i'll post up once we get the new ones in and let ya'll know how it goes. GMS has AWESOME customer service btw, welll so far!
 

tomustang

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Jan 22, 2006
#8
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #8
stonegod85 said:
We sent them back to GMS and they are supposed to be sending a new set....we bought through a company called Mojo Motorsports (an ebay middle man for GMS) and they SUCK!! worst customer service EVER! I found out through GMS that they have been under investigation by GMS.
Click to expand...


a crappy company investigating a shady dealer... what is the world comming to HAHAHAHA
 
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billyfe390

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Jan 22, 2006
#9
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #9
stonegod85 said:
well then why are people like hotrodnut and others i know not having this issue...hmmm answer me THAT
Click to expand...


What issue the binding or the noise?
 
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billyfe390

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Jan 22, 2006
#10
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #10
tomustang said:
go back to stock UCA's, practically everything out there sucks, you can't really improve in functions of the upper arms
Click to expand...

Yeah thats an intelligent answer.

Everything is better stock

I see Crapnet tech hasnt changed much.

Keep it going down the ****ter your doing a good job.
 

squares98

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Aug 20, 2004
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Orange,ca
Jan 22, 2006
#11
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #11
get Maximum Motorsports adjustable Lower control arms and stock or frpp uppers, your brain will thank you for it.
 

stonegod85

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Jan 22, 2006
#12
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #12
squares98 said:
get Maximum Motorsports adjustable Lower control arms and stock or frpp uppers, your brain will thank you for it.
Click to expand...

how would that be a better set up than the rod ends? OR are you just saying a lot less of a pain.

oh and i was talking about the noise and the binding....the noise that is associated with the rod ends is ROAD NOISE, something i am fine with...but what i was experiencing was a loud KNOCK, definitely not something ANYONE can bare hearing while they are cruising..or racing for that matter.
 

tomustang

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Jan 22, 2006
#13
  • Jan 22, 2006
  • #13
billyfe390 said:
Yeah thats an intelligent answer.

Everything is better stock
Click to expand...
Well if you think so, you can believe it

billyfe390 said:
I see Crapnet tech hasnt changed much.

Keep it going down the ****ter your doing a good job.
Click to expand...
Then why do you come here? You should just keep your overinflated ego over on the depot.

I've had double adjustable upper UCA's before, not only did they suck on the street but they were also loud. Completely removing the UCA's and installing a T/A or Tri-Link is better than adding other UCA's which are trying to do 2 jobs at once that they can not do.
 

stonegod85

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Mar 30, 2005
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Jan 24, 2006
#14
  • Jan 24, 2006
  • #14
has anyone else experienced noises other than road noise (i.e. knocking sounds) when installing sperical rod end control arms? i already know the problem with mine, but now i'm curious as to if i should just sale these when i get the NEW ones from GMS and just go with some bushing end control arms. it has been my understanding the the ball joint should move extremely easy and freely on the rod end, not so stiff that it takes a vice grip to rotate them (and they should definitely swing down once unbolted from the spring side (not torque box) instead of holding them selves in place.
 

KronicRacer

Member
Jun 23, 2004
502
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18
puttering around Ft Lauderdale, FL
Jan 24, 2006
#15
  • Jan 24, 2006
  • #15
im running a spherical/3 piece setup. ive kept my uppers stock and have had no nhv problem. ive actually found the combinations much quieter than stock(and much smoother).
one thing i did experience was when i got on it the other night. i did experienced some ass end wiggle while launching not as bad as before it is much improved.
 

stonegod85

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Jan 24, 2006
#16
  • Jan 24, 2006
  • #16
so you have the weight jackers and no noise? did you notice the ball joints rotating freely before you put them in?
 

KronicRacer

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Jun 23, 2004
502
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puttering around Ft Lauderdale, FL
Jan 24, 2006
#17
  • Jan 24, 2006
  • #17
it does take a little effort to move by bare hand.

its definatly not supposed to be as free as a skate board roller bearing assembly would be.

however once you do move it... the movement should feel smooth even though its takeing a little bit of muscle to move.
 

KronicRacer

Member
Jun 23, 2004
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puttering around Ft Lauderdale, FL
Jan 24, 2006
#18
  • Jan 24, 2006
  • #18
one thing that came to mind is did you grease gun thefittings?
 

stonegod85

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Jan 24, 2006
#19
  • Jan 24, 2006
  • #19
the fittings were greased....so you had to pretty much break them loose by moving them around while they were bolted to the torque boxes before you bolted the bushing ends?
 

KronicRacer

Member
Jun 23, 2004
502
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puttering around Ft Lauderdale, FL
Jan 25, 2006
#20
  • Jan 25, 2006
  • #20
nope i was moving it before istallation, when i noticed how stiff it was. i did not do it to specifically break it in. i was more messing around with the part and inspecting before installing. also according to the steeda instructions they do not mention a break in procedure.
 
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