Thoughts On 5w30 Semi Synthetic?

dz01

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Nov 10, 2014

#1

• Nov 10, 2014

• #1

I know there are a ton of opinions about oil, but what are your thoughts on Motorcraft 5w30 semi synthetic? That's what has been run in my car for years. Thinking of running Motorcraft 10w30. Hit me with some pros/cons.

 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving

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#2

• Nov 10, 2014

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I run it in both our daily drivers. I have always "heard" that the Motorcraft oil is qaulity stuff. I did switch to GTX high mileage in my truck a few years ago, but I don't really know if it is worth the extra expense.

Joe

 

dz01

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Nov 10, 2014

#3

• Nov 10, 2014

• #3

RangerJoe said:

I run it in both our daily drivers. I have always "heard" that the Motorcraft oil is qaulity stuff. I did switch to GTX high mileage in my truck a few years ago, but I don't really know if it is worth the extra expense.

Joe

Click to expand...

So you running the 5w30 or 10w30 in both your daily drivers?

 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving

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#4

• Nov 11, 2014

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5w30 in truck, 5w20 in Edge.

Joe

 

Onefine88

Previously 89SSC18

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#5

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I'm running 5w30 semi synthetic in my '05 F150 with the 5.4L 3valve and in my 2013 Escape with Ecoboost.

I'm running 20w50 Castrol GTX in my '88 vert.

 

dz01

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#6

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Thanks.

What are others running in their 5.0s?

 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

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#7

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Brad penn synthetic blend in both the race car (20w50) and in the Galaxie (10w40) It's the only oil I trust and doesn't come from some large conglomerate corporation

 

D

Dave2000GT

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#8

• Nov 11, 2014

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I really don't put much thought into oil, as long as the motor has enough oil, a filter, and its relatively clean it is fine. I just grab whatever dino oil is on the best discount.

 

mikestang63

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#9

• Nov 11, 2014

• #9

run whatever dino oil is on sale and a good wix or FL1A filter and change it every 3-5k miles and forget about it. Unless you are racing no sense in throwing money away on $6 a quart oil

 

RacEoHolic330

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#10

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Castrol 20w50 dino oil and an FL1A from Walmart. Good enough for my 700hp Street car. Keep the oil clean and you'll never have any issues with the cheaper stuff.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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#11

• Nov 12, 2014

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FL1A and Castrol GTX in my car

 

rbohm

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Nov 12, 2014

#12

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these days oil is like gasoline, it all comes from the same base stocks, and it all has to meet the same basic standards. so it comes down to your choice of brand, each will have a slightly different blend of additives, and your choice of dino, semi synthetic, or full synthetic.

even recycled oils these days have to meet the same standards of new oil, so the days of buying recycled oil and having a suspect stock are gone.

so my advice is to buy what works for you. i will suggest that if you are running a flat tappet cam that you use a friction modifier to avoid cam problems.

 

dz01

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Nov 12, 2014

#13

• Nov 12, 2014

• #13

Doesn't sound like anyone has anything negative to say about running 5w30 semi synthetic which is what I have in the car now. Maybe I'll hold off on switching to 10w30 until I pull the car out in the spring.

 

rd

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#14

• Nov 12, 2014

• #14

In my 5.0 engines I run 10w30 or 10w40, and use Motorcraft Never had an issue.

Use whatever grade recommended in the 4,6 engines in Bullitt and the 97 F150. Chevelle gets Autozone cheap dino oil with Comp Cams breakin additive. Probably start using the break in additive in the two 5.0 soon.

 

D

Dave2000GT

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#15

• Nov 12, 2014

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I can honestly say, I have never had an issue, solved an issue, or heard of a legitimate case of anyone else having or solving an issue purely due to changing oil types, except for maybe a drastic change in the weight.