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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Time to make some Power....Advice Wanted.

  • Thread starter Thread starter 351carlo
  • Start date Start date May 3, 2004
3

351carlo

New Member
Mar 9, 2004
267
0
0
Philadelphia
May 3, 2004
#1
  • May 3, 2004
  • #1
Alright guys. I chunked the BG 625 and put the Edelbrock 600 mechanical secondaries on. I like it a lot better, and the price difference was immense. Well I brought it out on the road, and unfortunately my transmission downshifted while WOT in 3rd gear. I fixed the problem (vacuum modulator), and I'm about to order my new pushrods (Didn't mention I bent two during this extreme wind up of the cleveland).

Well I'm gonna take it off the road for a little while, and just use my 4.6L for daily driving. But I need suggestions to make power with the 351 2v Cleveland. It's already got the 600 cfm Edelbrock with a Performer RPM Intake manifold.

Here's the questions:
Should I go with the hardened super pushrods, or just OEM Replacments?

Any suggestions on a cam?

I'm considering going with 3.55 gears and a trac lok rear, I've currently got 3.00's. How much will this help?

Valve springs, valves, rockers, machine work. Price estimates and what should I get done are what I'm really in need of.

I need to do exhaust, the whole way back. I'm gonna go with 1 5/8 headers, 3 inch collectors, and some 2 chamber Flowmasters. Maybe an H pipe.

My trans is an FMX, and the only way I will be able to afford a T-5 or any such conversion is with a Junkyard swap.

I'm gonna leave bottom end stock, I just dont want to go that far.

Any estimates on how much power I'll be able to make? I really wanted to make 300 RWHP, but it seems that may be unreasonable for my budget (probably around one thousand dollars).

Thanks guys,
Carlo
 

NorCal66

New Member
Aug 12, 2003
334
0
0
Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA HOME
May 4, 2004
#2
  • May 4, 2004
  • #2
Pushrods: I'd definately go with the hardened ones just for peace of mind, guideplates would be a nice investment too (bout $30)

Cam: I've got a 302, so I'll let someone else advise you on this one.

Gears: If your 3.00s are open, then a 3.55 traclok should be a great improvement.

Valves Springs: depending on your cam
Rockers: Nice set of roller rockers 1.6s or 1.7s depending on what kind of cam you decide to go with.

Exhaust: Sounds good, I'd suggest the H as well. Little better power and sounds a whole helluva lot better in most people's opinions.

I don't think 300RWHP sounds unreasonable at all...no expert here but Clevelands are pretty spunky from what I hear.
 
J

jesserose17

New Member
Aug 21, 2003
219
0
0
Southern CA
May 4, 2004
#3
  • May 4, 2004
  • #3
Cam - I would suggest Comp Cam XE262H for mild performance if you are retaining stock converter or XE274H for more power if you plan to keep FMX, would need 2400 Stall converter and 3.73 or deeper rear gears.

I would recommend X-pipe rather than the H-pipe. Summit sells the 2-1/2" X-pipe kit for $90.
 
1

19stang67

Founding Member
Jul 29, 2002
90
0
6
Tampa, FL
May 4, 2004
#4
  • May 4, 2004
  • #4
Well, if your gonna pull the heads, then I would go with the guide plates and screw-in studs, otherwise just get the hardened pushrods. I would also get a set of roller rockers (I believe the Clevelands came with 1.72:1 from the factory. Someone correct me on this if I'm wrong). As far as valves, i don't remember what they come with but a set of 2.02/1.60 will complete the setup. The 2v heads are fantastic heads (better than the 4v IMHO). These heads will breath into the upper RPMs so a cam with a powerband of say 2500-6500 would be a good choice and will still save the bottom end. As for gears, the 3.55s are good, but if you don't mind it go with a steeper gear, say 3.90 to 4.10. You will REALLY notice a difference. Now that being said, the FMX gotta go. Yes it is a sturdy tranny, but not designed for high performance and weighs like a million pounds. If you want an auto, get a C6 or swap to a 4 or 5 speed (I like the gear bangin' myself). The exhaust will also make a huge improvement since the Cleveland moves so much air, it's gotta go out too. Your headers should work very nicely on the street. Even a cheaper set (Hedman or Flowtech) will be a big improvement. i would run 2.5" all the way back and use an X or H-pipe (I like the X pipe, but they are more expensive). Don't overlook the intake. I don't really know what is offered anymore, but the Torkers for the Cleveland used to be the one of choice for the street (at least the people I talked to). Now obviously all of this will go over $1000, i don't know what you can do yourself, but if you can do most of it (pull and replace your cam and heads, weld up an exhaust, and swap rear gears), you would be close to your target. The more you farm out, the less you can get done. Out of all of these, do the gears and the exhaust. They will give you a good foundation to work from.
 

Mach1steve

New Member
Feb 10, 2004
95
0
0
Burlington, Ont.
May 4, 2004
#5
  • May 4, 2004
  • #5
I agree with 19stang67, the fmx has gotta go, they can handle torque OK, but past 5,800rpm they blow up (been there done that, and it took my engine with it .. ).
Go with a professionally built C4 or a C6 or move to a Trmec 5spd or 4spd yoploader if you have the bucks.
The biggest single improvement you will make is changing the rear-end gear ratio to 3.55 or more.
If you want to highway cruise with this car, 3.91's or higher is brutal......3.55''s are a good allaround choice.
I run 4V heads on my 351C and love em.... nothin breaths like em ! and power ?
Dyno'd at 450hp & 420 ft/lbs. (6,500 & 4,000rpm respectively).
But that was with new stainless valves, forged pistons, big cam (.540/.560), but it's VERY streetable, not to mention fast !
Make sure you pay attention to the Cam and make sure to buy a Cam/Spring/Lifter kit from the same manufacturer. Don't replace a Cam without also changing the other 2.
Mach1steve
www.muggziperformance.com
 
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