Progress Thread She’s a runner

Everything is off to the machine shop. He said he’ll probably add .0001 or a little more for the boost I’m running. Michael’s racing engines has a great reputation up this way. He said he’ll probably be done in 3-4 weeks.
 
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As i'm waiting for everything to get back from the machine shop I keep thinking I'm most likley gonna kill this t-5 if i launch it hard. So I'm considering looking for a TKO-600. Any thoughts on this or other transmissions in that price range?
 
As i'm waiting for everything to get back from the machine shop I keep thinking I'm most likley gonna kill this t-5 if i launch it hard. So I'm considering looking for a TKO-600. Any thoughts on this or other transmissions in that price range?

There's a bunch. Hanlon will know what you need. He will most likely recommend a TKO600. He can set one up for you and ship it. The 3650s are popular too.

Kurt
 
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The launch isn't really what i see killing T5's.
It's the hard gear changes where traction holds.

If the trans is currently good, don't break it or else all the value is gone.

Not too many real choices, it's a G force or astro in a stock case, tko or t56.
If i remember correctly 90sickfox just went through buying a trans and Hanlon had him at $4500 all in.
 
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Fwiw, I have a tko 600 in my 66 Chevelle, behind a mild 350. I love it, it made the car. Not much power but it will handle the big block one day.

Highly recommend one. I got mine from American Powertrain and highly recommend them.
 
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Liberty Gears did my TKO600. They bought a brand new trans and face plated 2nd, 3rd and 4th. Also Cro treated the internals and case. I believe it was ~4800 about 4 years ago. Its been trouble free.
 
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Did you just get a stock tko? Looks like it’s be strong enough for my application.

It's not the strength so much as the shifting. I have a shift package from Hanlon for my 3550 (old TKO) which is fiber lined blocker rings, and brass fork pads that I installed myself. I'm not bragging, but I shift my car real fast. The weak point in the TKO600 is the thickness in the metal at the front of the transmission case. It tends to crack. There used to be something called a Swarr girdle, but they aren't made anymore. Liberty offers a comparable product I believe. I've never used either one, but I've cracked two cases. I've had my 3550 for 20 years now, and so far I have sheared an input shaft, broken the teeth off of 3rd gear, sheared the drive gear off the countershaft, and cracked 2 cases. I've gotten so good at taking it apart, I can swap all the parts into a new case in less than 4 hours without breaking a sweat.

There are some key advantages to the TKO over the old 3550. It comes with the 26 spline input shaft which is what you want. It's much stronger than the 10 spline shaft I sheared. The countershaft is one piece, so that doesn't break as easily. It also comes with the 31 spline output shaft as well. In 20 years, I have never broken a 28 spline output shaft. I even did a die penetrant on it to check for micro fractures, and it was fine. However, the 31 spline shaft is definitely better. My car is very heavy, and I launched it very hard on heavy clutches for a long time.

The classic SBF and the modular engines have the same bellhousing bolt pattern. Hell, both engines have the exact same rear main seal. Those 1000hp 3650s aren't cheap, and likely you are better off with a TKO600.

I've dealt with both Astro and Hanlon for many years now. Both great companies, but Bob Hanlon really knows what he is doing. I always recommend calling Hanlon and talking to either Linda or Bob. It's just the two of them, a family business, and they give you that level of individual service that works for a lot of people. Linda does most of the phone work, while Bob is building transmissions. He's going to sell you what you need, not what you don't, for the best price. If you want to drag race the car, he's probably going to recommend modifying a few things inside the transmission. He can build you a streetable manual transmission that will keep up with an auto on the track.

Kurt
 
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Mine came from promotion powertrain years ago.
He always has answered all my questions.
It was a package that had something modified internally and a promotion shifter with tri ax handle.
Included everything needed.
It was a NIB second hand package with clutch, bell, cable, firewall adjuster, everything included needed to install.
With pricing today, i'd guess i stole it at $2000...
 
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Wow lots of great information! Thanks guys!! I have some homework to do... I don’t think I’ll have the budget for a fully built tko but I also won’t be beating on it all the time. It’s mostly a street car with a few trips to the track. I’ll definitely hold off and see how funds look when the engine is done and spring is here so I got time.
 
I'm ordering from Hanlon now. Around 4100 for everything I ncluding transmission modifications ( aluminum bell...not SFI ). About 2 weeks to have completed. Great folks. Bob and Linda are really easy people to deal with. They are legends and stay busy.
 
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I'm ordering from Hanlon now. Around 4100 for everything I ncluding transmission modifications ( aluminum bell...not SFI ). About 2 weeks to have completed. Great folks. Bob and Linda are really easy people to deal with. They are legends and stay busy.
That's not a bad deal at all. I may be able to swing that when everything else is done. we'll see.
 
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Mine came from promotion powertrain years ago.
He always has answered all my questions.
It was a package that had something modified internally and a promotion shifter with tri ax handle.
Included everything needed.
It was a NIB second hand package with clutch, bell, cable, firewall adjuster, everything included needed to install.
With pricing today, i'd guess i stole it at $2000...

You can barely get a run of the mill T5 shipped to your door for that.
 
typically you are going to want to use a cam that has a small amount of overlap, however sometimes overlap is useful in decreasing the cylinder pressures at lower RPM [positive displacement blower issues] with a blower [not a turbo they have slightly different requirements from what little I understand] you want a large amount of exhaust duration to allow the engine to breathe freely the intake side is important as well but not as much as the exhaust.

typically PD blowers will work well with a "nitrous cam" it really depends on what kind of manners you want out of the build as a whole.
I would think something in the 114-116LSA with at least 220 and 230e durations the lift needs to be matched to the cylinder head [for yours i would think 550-600 lift is suitable]
The duration can be larger for instance mine has a 224i and 236e duration on a 114lsa at 590lift [originally designed for my 302 with the blower] and I would consider it a very mild cam in my 393. I should have used something closer to 236i and 248e or more... all duration figures are at 50
 
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