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Voltage Regulator - electronic or mechanical?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 68conv4sp
  • Start date Start date Jun 7, 2008
6

68conv4sp

New Member
Oct 24, 2005
270
0
0
Jun 7, 2008
#1
  • Jun 7, 2008
  • #1
My 68 currently has a new electronic regulator and new 60 amp alternator. The lights still pulse at all rpms. Would the old style mechanical reg solve this? The battery is also new and stays fully charged. What am I missing?
 

JC6715

Member
Oct 24, 2005
284
0
16
Hillsboro, Oregon
Jun 8, 2008
#2
  • Jun 8, 2008
  • #2
I was having the same problem. Took a grounding strap from the negative post on battery to chassis and a grounding strap from the block to the chassis to get rid of it. Something to check if you haven't already...
 
R

RapidRoy

New Member
Nov 25, 2004
13
0
0
Jun 9, 2008
#3
  • Jun 9, 2008
  • #3
My 67 does fine with a cheap NAPA electronic regulator. I doubt that the regulator is the problem.
 
B

bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
3
77
lubbock, texas
Jun 9, 2008
#4
  • Jun 9, 2008
  • #4
i've had problems with some aftermarket eloctronic regulators, now i'll only use motorcraft regulators...period. a mechanical regulator isn't the way to go either, yes they are adjustable but they are nowhere near as reliable. you might also consider upgrading to a higher amperage alternator, most alternator/generator shops will have 100 amp conversion kits for your stock alternator.
 
6

68conv4sp

New Member
Oct 24, 2005
270
0
0
Jun 11, 2008
#5
  • Jun 11, 2008
  • #5
This all stems from my electronics ignorance. I replaced the stock 40A (I think) alt w/ a brand new 62A alt before I understood that a 100amp one wire conversion is no big deal. My stereo amp is rated at 4 x 60 watts rms and I saw too much dimming of headlights, so I added a .5 farad capacitor. I am on the third (and most effective) electronic regulator with much less light dimming - but not perfect. Rather than pay for a new alt again, would a larger capacitor help?
 
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