Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?
- Thread starter Reddevil91
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- Mar 3, 2010
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Oh also while I was putting a hose clamp on the over flow tank instead of the crappy metal zip tie to stop my leaking issue I noticed my front bumper cover is floppy where it attaches to the support. Does anyone know what is used to attach at this location?
- Mar 3, 2010
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Mine is not the same year as yours it looks like you are also missing your chin spoiler.
Ahh yes, I think you need this; Even has the hardware:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8349A/87-93-Ford-Mustang-Radiator-Air-Deflector
Ahh yes, I think you need this; Even has the hardware:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8349A/87-93-Ford-Mustang-Radiator-Air-Deflector
Just one for the door. They sell the whole thing in the parts store in the HElP! Aisle
Hatch uses two different strikers. No bushing after 1991
Whew, Thanks! LoL
That was scratching my brain.
- Mar 3, 2010
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- Mar 3, 2010
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Cool so then I am missing the bushings on my doors and my hatch is good to go then with the striker it has. Like I said my hatch is tight no issues there just wasn’t sure.Just one for the door. They sell the whole thing in the parts store in the HElP! Aisle
Hatch uses two different strikers. No bushing after 1991
It’s the
its there just a little rough!!
Oh
I must not have the correct orientation from your previous photo.
Are there or bolt holes in the area that you showed previously? Are there any nut-plates hitten in that area that we can't see in the pic?
There's only two three kinds of hardware in that area that I remember. Plastic trees, the bolts and nut-plates included with the kit I showed above, and some flat, dimple headed, self-tapping screws (that always rust).
Screw hole
I think they use the same bolts and nutplates as the radiator deflector. Check for a nut-plate or empty hole behind this.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Yeah I’ll have to check and feel under there. I was gonna buy some like those ones pictured in the photo you sent from autzone but wasn’t sure if they would work. I also got a bunch of these yellow/white plastic push pins that I want to say are for the door panels. Idk I’m when I bought that gauge cluster the guy sent everything that was in the box so it came with tons of little things from lmr like whoever he bought the car from was gonna restore it. Have all sorts of extra rivets, nuts for headlights, tail lights, some nuts for 85/86 which I don’t think I’ll need, pushpins bunch of things, even got new hood bumpers which is good bc I know I’m missing one of the fender mounted ones and my core support ones could be replaced.
Screw hole
I think they use the same bolts and nutplates as the radiator deflector. Check for a nut-plate or empty hole behind this.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Well this happened today! So I tried to diagnose this myself up to what I could do with help from everyone on here, google etc. but nothing. So I tried to drive my car over to the shop and within not even 1/4 mile the car stalled and died 4 times, losing fuel pressure and cutting off. So luckily with our USAA insurance we have free towing and road side assistance. Can’t wait to know what this damn demon is that has been plaguing my car. Hopefully it’s nothing to crazy
- Jul 7, 2005
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Sorry about the breakdown, but congratulations, and welcome to the "pictures of my car stranded alongside the road" club.
And..
Your car looks really good.
And..
Your car looks really good.
When it dies does the fuel pump stop too? You said it loses fuel pressure, can you hear it if you cycle the key?
- Mar 3, 2010
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Yes after figuring out how to fix the alternator issue everything was charging great, checked both the battery and alternator with the meter and number were great. What it was doing was it would idle fine, I get in first take off and the pedal would feel solid for a second car would get going then the pedal would go soft, car shuts offs, fuel pressure gauge reading zero. I live pretty high up on a hill you can see my place way up in the back there. So I let it just coast down the hill. Got down, I put my scanner on it runs it’s check and during that time I’ll watch mg gauge and it will then shoot up to 30 psi. I’ll disconnect the scanner and everything holds good. Crank it on, first gear get going and within 20ft loss of power, fuel pressure gauge zero again and here we are again. The last time I did this in the picture on the side of the road I put the scanner back on and I noticed instead of the fuel pressure gauge going up to 30 it only went up to idk about 10/15 psi but the car still cranked on, moved it forward and it did the same crap again
- Mar 3, 2010
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Ha ha thanks man, maybe we should start a new thread for this very instance. Just hate giving in but I gave it my best shot to which I could do myself and felt comfortable doing and diagnosing. My technical skills are not the best but I’ve been trying and learning a lot, but this hit the best of me and had to pass this one on.
- Mar 3, 2010
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So when this happens and it dies and shuts off, I turn everything off, then flip the key forward and yes you can hear the pump priming. I’ll crank it on and it will turn crank on but shut off immediately. This is until I plug in my scanner and let it test and I guess it resets something, then I’ll show pressure on my gauge. At that point I can start it and it will run for a few minutes before it does this same situation again with losing pressure and the car shutting off.
