Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

Oh except for that I think that the

TFI

could be the issue and not the TPS. :hide:
Ha ha wow that got crazy. So the dizzy and tfi are both new as of recent. I get they could be bad to, but they are recently changed, and yes I used the thermal paste. I do have the tps and IAC though as well I just got, but I was told by a friend that I would need to know what the tuner set it. Wasn’t sure about all that.
 
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I had a bad TFI, replaced it, and replaced it again after banging my head against a hard spot for a day or two. I think that was in the late 90's. :)


Same thing though... Would start and run just fine. Die dead, pull over, key-off, key-on, and VROOM. Off again. Until the next time. :nonono:
 
Ok so shizzle got weird. So I had a frayed wire on the top of the tank where it connects up top of it. Idk if that was the problem or not. My other issue after snaking in the tank, not by me but a friends shop, they said hmm you have gas in there but looks to be not enough. So we gassed her up, repaired the wire and on she goes and runs like a champ. So I have an aeromotive stealth 340, is there any difference than a stock fp in regards to length etc. why could I run my stock fp when it was basically stock with no issues to empty but after all this motor change, injectors etc etc fuel pump would I run into issues with less than a quarter tank?? They also checked the power from ecu etc back to fuel pump relay, relay to rear and all still powered up and checked out ok. Here is my other question. As I said when pulled my stock cluster out I remember having a quarter tank. I installed these new gauges and then my fuel gauge read 1/2 and then after a few starts 3/4 full. So after manipulation and adding in about 8 gallons of fuel my gas gauge went all the way over to empty but slightly past. Almost like it went reverse of what it was suppose to do with a full tank. Is this possible that some how it’s reading backwards?
 
Me thinks the stock sending unit is not compatible with the guage. Does it have a spec range of acceptable ohms?

Looks like the factory senders operate on two difference ranges

IMG_2834.jpg
 
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Ok so shizzle got weird. So I had a frayed wire on the top of the tank where it connects up top of it. Idk if that was the problem or not. My other issue after snaking in the tank, not by me but a friends shop, they said hmm you have gas in there but looks to be not enough. So we gassed her up, repaired the wire and on she goes and runs like a champ. So I have an aeromotive stealth 340, is there any difference than a stock fp in regards to length etc. why could I run my stock fp when it was basically stock with no issues to empty but after all this motor change, injectors etc etc fuel pump would I run into issues with less than a quarter tank?? They also checked the power from ecu etc back to fuel pump relay, relay to rear and all still powered up and checked out ok. Here is my other question. As I said when pulled my stock cluster out I remember having a quarter tank. I installed these new gauges and then my fuel gauge read 1/2 and then after a few starts 3/4 full. So after manipulation and adding in about 8 gallons of fuel my gas gauge went all the way over to empty but slightly past. Almost like it went reverse of what it was suppose to do with a full tank. Is this possible that some how it’s reading backwards?

So that makes two who have been towed after running out of gas. At least Mikey isn’t alone in that club anymore. :tss:

But good that you found the frayed wire. That could have been bad if it sparked... I’m also guessing you’re gauge issue is a sender not getting along with the gauge. Sucks to have to potentially drop the tank again, but once sorted out your car is killer. :rock:
 
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So I guess I would need to maybe swap my fuel gauge from the one I have to the stepper type. Here is the info for mine thanks @Mustang5L5 from what the info says this would work ok for 89s and earlier.
 

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So that makes two who have been towed after running out of gas. At least Mikey isn’t alone in that club anymore. :tss:

But good that you found the frayed wire. That could have been bad if it sparked... I’m also guessing you’re gauge issue is a sender not getting along with the gauge. Sucks to have to potentially drop the tank again, but once sorted out your car is killer. :rock:
Ha ha well technically I wasn’t fully out of gas!!
 
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Most after market gauges will read 4 different sender impedance ranges. ( ohms)
Chevrolet uses a range, Chrysler and early ford used the same range, late ford uses something different. And there is a completely different range built specifically for a brand of gauge that has been around since the dawn of time.

I'm thinking that since you got these for a ford application, the fuel gauge should read one of the two different ford ranges.
first you gotta figure out what impedance your current sender range is, and you'll need an ohm meter to do that. Remove the plug that's on the sender, and touch the probes to two male studs that are sticking out.

If the ohm meter shows you any impedance over 73, you have the later model sender in the tank.........But here is the bad part.

To truly determine that, the tank has to be full. If the tank is full, you have that much more gas to drain back out.

If the sender is reading in the late model range, the gauge you have is probably set to read an early year range ( 73-10).
I just looked back at your gauge pics, sometimes it's stamped somewhere on the ga. One things for sure, there isn't any way to change that gauge to read the current sender that's in the tank, the gauge only reads the impedance it was set to read.

* edit..I just realized I'm not familiar with a mustang tank...is the sender still on the front of the tank that has the lock ring retainer?
 
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So this might be weird and I’m keeping an eye on it since I know the tank is legit full. Took it for a nice cruise yesterday, sunny here in Austin with 70* weather and car ran great. Anyways like I said once the tank was full the gauge ran all the way over to empty. During the drive going up or down hills, in curves etc I noticed the gauge fluctuated I guess with the swashing of the gas, but when I got home and in the garage on a level surface the gauge read 1/4 empty give or take. In my sense it is reading backwards. So it’s let’s say 3/4 full at this point. Now I know this isn’t the best way bc it’s not reading accurately but if this is some what correct I might just run it this way, and keep an eye on my mileage and the gauge even though it’s reading backwards, just for now until I get it all figured out. Like i had mentioned I knew my old cluster read about 1/4 tank left, when I installed the new stuff, the fuel gauge jumped over to 3/4 full. Now that I filled it up it was reading completely empty on the E and moving in reverse towards the full.
 
You'll have an entire album of pics of your car stranded on the side of the road..
Fix the problem, you have over 600.00 worth of aftermarket gauges,..it seems kinda silly to ignore the fuel level...
 
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Alright so i called and talked to autometer today, told them my issue they looked up my car year info, let them know the sender is the one the car came with but has an upgraded fuel pump. He said yes the gauge I have 73 empty and 10 full so it’s surely off, but he sent me a form and said I could actually send the gauge in and have them change the range ohm to something closer to what my sender is so they will change it to read 16ohm empty and 158 full which isn’t exactly it but close enough as mine would read 22 empty and 145 full. Figure that’s not bad for a 25 dollar charge. What do you guys think?
 
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