Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

  • Sponsors (?)


Ok, considering I have an idiot light and it's flashing most of the time,
Ok, it flashes all the time!
if the gauge is reading empty when the tank is full why can't you swap the wires around?
the answer may be obvious to some of the more experienced here but not me.
 
Ok, considering I have an idiot light and it's flashing most of the time,
Ok, it flashes all the time!
if the gauge is reading empty when the tank is full why can't you swap the wires around?
the answer may be obvious to some of the more experienced here but not me.

I thought that he may have been already checked that. Yeah Devil, check that first
 
Which ever way you put the wires won't change the resistance. 25ohms is 25ohms. Its reading through the sender regardless.

You'd have to flip the chip it reads at the end of the fuel float....that sounds simple but it isn't.

I'd pay the 25 bucks and be done.
 
I might hide a small 10K ohm potentiometer behind the dash and adjust it with an empty tank and a full one.

You could use smaller (lower range) pot to fine tune if you have them adjust the range first.

It's fortunate that the gauge range is wider than the tank sender.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I might hide a small 10K ohm potentiometer behind the dash and adjust it with an empty tank and a full one.

You could use smaller (lower range) pot to fine tune if you have them adjust the range first.

It's fortunate that the gauge range is wider than the tank sender.
Hmm not sure what that does or how I would install said potentiometer. Are you saying to use that with the gauge after I get it back from autometer. I’ll oribably pull it out and send it this Sunday. Got a car show to go to Saturday.
 
Hmm not sure what that does or how I would install said potentiometer. Are you saying to use that with the gauge after I get it back from autometer. I’ll oribably pull it out and send it this Sunday. Got a car show to go to Saturday.

Yeah... You can add a touch more resistance to the circuit to dial it in. You'd likely only need a 1K or even less.

Your low side has a differential of -.72 and the high side -2.5. Adding 1 ohm will bring the circuit to +.28 on the low side and -1.5 on the full side.

That would be pretty accurate for an analog gauge. :nice:

I might even skip the potentiometer and just wire a 1 ohm resistor into the circuit.
 
Ok so got this momo wheel and hub and I’m pretty pumped!! I can’t tell if I should leave it alone or paint it but I may just install it and see how I vibe with it. Guess I’ll loose my air bag and cruise etc but honestly can’t say when the last time I used cruise control was? Maybe like 15 years ago! Then I came across this photo and was like wait how did they make that work?? On to my next problem so as you guys saw previous i swapped in new lights and all changed everything over to LEDs. Working fine no issues, had my car taken over to a shop due to the fuel pressure issue etc, get it back and now my headlights don’t work, fogs don’t work. They changed some grounds that were just sitting in the negative terminal, added eyelets and mounted them with the screw. I had done the fog light changed, I had seen but used slot 16 on the fuse panel with an add a circuit, popped the 20 in added the 15, plugged into 12 with the spade and all worked fine. Now if I hit the fog lights the fuse immediately pops. No issues previously before then car going to the shop and now both aren’t working. Could it be the grounds they “fixed”? Of course the shop says oh we did nothing but just add eyelets bc it was arcing supposedly. I also got this upholstery in and was excited, took it to one shop and the said no to custom for us! Damn ok I’ll try another shop, these guys were like well we could cut the front of the material off, but a block of foam and cut it make it work but it’s gonna get pricey real fast. Oh nah I’m good how about if we just say cut the middle pattern section out, to cover the middle, then use some material that’s similar, which they had the material and kinda just wrap the original seat as it is in black with the the pattern in the middle for both the backs and bench. They were like yeah! For sure we can make that work and it would actually look really nice. Ok let’s do it! How much? Ehh for the material, we will need some 1in foam to make the patterns sit right like they have it in the upholstery now, blah blah $850 to get all the rear seats done! Wtf 850! Damn I’m glad I only paid 65 bucks for this upholstery, time to try a different shop or just give up on this dream of matching the upholstery and be out the 65 I paid for it.
 

Attachments

  • B871CB0E-F00A-410A-8617-FC91B1B97E97.jpeg
    B871CB0E-F00A-410A-8617-FC91B1B97E97.jpeg
    164.7 KB · Views: 187
  • 31140926-C8E7-463C-A7B9-01A46313500A.jpeg
    31140926-C8E7-463C-A7B9-01A46313500A.jpeg
    191.6 KB · Views: 181
  • 17AC4C05-8111-4CD6-8405-A3A3C5CAC793.jpeg
    17AC4C05-8111-4CD6-8405-A3A3C5CAC793.jpeg
    334.3 KB · Views: 210
  • A4B53375-F41B-4FDA-B249-AF1FF7DE7F58.jpeg
    A4B53375-F41B-4FDA-B249-AF1FF7DE7F58.jpeg
    247.5 KB · Views: 185
  • 5DB8D910-E21C-4DC1-88F9-E70FC53A9A08.jpeg
    5DB8D910-E21C-4DC1-88F9-E70FC53A9A08.jpeg
    338.4 KB · Views: 193
Saleen cruise control switches. Guy on corral makes a replica setup but it's not cheap. Problem is getting those to wire up the 90+ style clockspring. The older wheels use three contacts fingers that remind me of 1800s machinery
 
Saleen cruise control switches. Guy on corral makes a replica setup but it's not cheap. Problem is getting those to wire up the 90+ style clockspring. The older wheels use three contacts fingers that remind me of 1800s machinery
Ok how hard is this wheel to get off. The lmr video the seem like the barely right the bolt on the steering wheel puller and it popped right off.
 
Never used the puller on mine. Loosen the bolt. Unthread it a bit and then hit the bolt with a hammer while pulling up on the wheel. Should pop off.

The puller never worked for me. I broke it
 
Never used the puller on mine. Loosen the bolt. Unthread it a bit and then hit the bolt with a hammer while pulling up on the wheel. Should pop off.

The puller never worked for me. I broke it
Yeah I rented the puller from autozone. One of the threads was bad. So I tried to thread it in. Got to cranking and once pressure hit both the stablizing bolts just ripped right out. Might try your way, let’s just say I got real frustrated last night, and decide to wax my car and wheels instead for a car show tomorrow. Gonna try again today after work.
 
Oh nah I’m good how about if we just say cut the middle pattern section out, to cover the middle, then use some material that’s similar, which they had the material and kinda just wrap the original seat as it is in black with the the pattern in the middle for both the backs and bench. They were like yeah! For sure we can make that work and it would actually look really nice. Ok let’s do it! How much? Ehh for the material, we will need some 1in foam to make the patterns sit right like they have it in the upholstery now, blah blah $850 to get all the rear seats done! Wtf 850! Damn I’m glad I only paid 65 bucks for this upholstery, time to try a different shop or just give up on this dream of matching the upholstery and be out the 65 I paid for it.

WHat about grabbing one of the Corbeau rear seat kits, and then cutting out the center material and having it sewn into the covers and then installed on your current rear seat?

https://lmr.com/item/CS-FB26501CV/83-93-Mustang-Convertible-Black-Cloth-Rear-Seat-Upholstery

+ your covers?


Ultimately it's what i'll probably end up doing. I'll buy another complete rear seat so a shop can use the original material as a template and then they can create the rear seat out of materials that will match the front, but the patten will be a Fox seat that I can install like OEM.


Of course that's down the road. Upholstery work isn't cheap which is why i'm happy with the Corbeau setup in the back for now