What primer should I use after aircraft paint remover?

SEAL IT FIRST !!!! Especially in Fl. with all the humidity. Or find a primer that will lock out the moisture. Most primers don't protect from that. That is what paint id for. If you don't, you can sand down the primer a month later, if that and see all the rust. Ask me how I know.

He's right. Use an epoxy primer first over bare steel and you'll be fine. Stay away from lacquer primers since they don't keep the metal from rusting. I've left parts in epoxy for months (inside) with no problems. Try something like Omni epoxy if you're on a budget or House of Kolor if not.

You're in luck, Eastwood Company makes self etching primer in a can! Great for sealing small striped parts, but you'll need to use primer on it after the sealer! If your sealing the body panels, go get a gallon of it, but small parts you can buy a can or two.

Jb1dsl how did the aircraft paint stripper work for you i was going to use it on my car... did you use a power washer to take the paint off?????

Before you start using spray cans to paint or prime any part of your car, you should know a few facts. Painting a car is a lot like building a house in that the whole thing is only as good as the foundation. There is no magical product that comes out of any spraycan that works nearly as well as a catalyzed, two part epoxy primer. It simply is not possible, regardless of what the catalog claims. If you choose to use something out of an aeresol can, it is NOT hardedned therefore it will dry "soft" and stay soft. Then when you go to spray your surfacer or sealer or paint, the solvents from those products will leach into the low-quality spray can product and will cause a whole bunch of problems like wrinkling or lifting, etc. Also, there is no need for any sort of "etching" primer these days with modern two-part primers. Just wipe it down with a bare-metal cleaner and spray. I'm not sure of exactly why you don't want to use your spray gun, but unless you enjoy stripping the car over when the paint fails, please realize it's the only way to get a high-quality job. I assume that's what you're after, since you're going to the trouble an expense of stripping the car to bare metal.
As far as what to use to remove the stripper, pressure washing ain't it! First off, spread out a drop cloth to contain the mess, brush on the stripper then I use steel wool (while wearing heavy rubber gloves) scrub the paint and stripper off. Yes it's messy, yes it's toxic (wear a respirator) and yes it's going to take a lot of time and a lot more stripper than you originally thought. When you get most of it off, use lacquer thinner to wipe off the residue (very, very important) and then sand the crevices by hand. If you can find a friend, you can do it in a day. Just rememeber NOT to get the stripper in crevices you can't get to, use duct tape to keep it out of the door jambs, trunk jambs and anywhere else you don't want to strip.

zookeeper said:

Before you start using spray cans to paint or prime any part of your car, you should know a few facts. Painting a car is a lot like building a house in that the whole thing is only as good as the foundation. There is no magical product that comes out of any spraycan that works nearly as well as a catalyzed, two part epoxy primer. It simply is not possible, regardless of what the catalog claims. If you choose to use something out of an aeresol can, it is NOT hardedned therefore it will dry "soft" and stay soft. Then when you go to spray your surfacer or sealer or paint, the solvents from those products will leach into the low-quality spray can product and will cause a whole bunch of problems like wrinkling or lifting, etc. Also, there is no need for any sort of "etching" primer these days with modern two-part primers. Just wipe it down with a bare-metal cleaner and spray. I'm not sure of exactly why you don't want to use your spray gun, but unless you enjoy stripping the car over when the paint fails, please realize it's the only way to get a high-quality job. I assume that's what you're after, since you're going to the trouble an expense of stripping the car to bare metal.
As far as what to use to remove the stripper, pressure washing ain't it! First off, spread out a drop cloth to contain the mess, brush on the stripper then I use steel wool (while wearing heavy rubber gloves) scrub the paint and stripper off. Yes it's messy, yes it's toxic (wear a respirator) and yes it's going to take a lot of time and a lot more stripper than you originally thought. When you get most of it off, use lacquer thinner to wipe off the residue (very, very important) and then sand the crevices by hand. If you can find a friend, you can do it in a day. Just rememeber NOT to get the stripper in crevices you can't get to, use duct tape to keep it out of the door jambs, trunk jambs and anywhere else you don't want to strip.

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Good INFO!

I will add one additional bit of info. If you use stripper on the roof areas where the factory used lead, spend a little extra time recleaning the areas (not just try to sand it off.) My personal experiance reveals that it will come back to haunt you years later.

yeah good info cause people kept telling me to use a pressure washer after it bubbles.......

I can think of several reasons not to use a pressure washer on paint stripper. First, is the personal hazard factor. Even after it quits bubbling the paint, stripper will easily burn your skin. Imagine blowing into your eye, or onto someone unlucky enough to be in the area. Not good. Also you really don't want to be washing that crap into local drain water or if you live in a rural area it could easily end up in your ground water. Stripper is horrendously toxic and can cause health problems very quickly if misused. Then there's the problem of introducing water and bare steel. Pressure washers can blow water into crevices of your car that will drip for hours or even days. I know of painters that don't even wet sand primer for fear of breaking through the primer and getting bare metal wet, causing problems later. I'm not that paranoid, but I do know that getting plastic filler wet means getting to do it over again. There's just no good reason to use a pressure washer to remove stripper. Always try to think of any potential problems when stripping paint, doing it wrong can easily mean ruining a perfectly good car. Want an example? A guy I know didn't want to strip his '69 RS/SS Camaro by sanding or stripper, so he heated the metal with a propane torch until the paint blistered. You can imagine what the car looked like and no it didn't get saved. Always think it through...

first off im not a body man(only painted 3 cars)but this is what iv'e found

laquer based primer-junk i used it on my capri on my first time touching a car. the car turned out looking nice but the stuff dosnt stick to metal very good. any rock chip or door ding ive had in the past 3 years took off the primer with the paint, and opened a door to rust.

on my falcon at first when i did the rear quarters and trunk i used omni 242 which uses hardener and reducer. when i ran out i went back to get more for the doors and fenders, and was asked if i was spraying bare metal. and told them yes since i sand blasted them. they told me to etch it first then prime it, so i did. the stuff is blackish with a catalyst mix to it, quite the smelly stuff. got it all primed and went off to get paint. now this is what confuses me, you guys here and a few other sources say to use sealer before primer. these guys told me to use it right before the base coat to fill in small sanding scratches and surface imperfections, this was even on the data sheets it says to paint within one hour. well anyway that car turned out fine(other than my own *@$%-ups)no rust problems execp where i got the pain thin in the wheel wells.

the third one i did was recently a dakota some colision damge. while i was at it i figured to paint the whole truck fix door dings and scratches. used the rattle can approach for where i hit metal. the first can i had was a SEM sandable primer, seemed to work good. i later ran out on a sat afternoon, and the place i got the stuff from was closed, so i went to napa and got some of their sandable automotive grade primer. i finished off the body work and scuffed the truck. pulled out the sealer and stared spraying. the napa crapa primer lifted@%^!@#$%%$^ wipe down sand off crappa primer do over.

the rattle can stuff all depends on who made it, also its not cost effictive $10 for a can that probably might cover a quater panel is way too much when doing a full vehicle

IMHO the best auto painting advice on the web is at http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index . If you do not want to apply the epoxy primer immediately, they recommend using a product called PickleX on raw metal that is waiting for the epoxy primer. The parts should be stored indoors until the epoxy is applied.