what size aluminum universal radiator to get in my 68

DarkoStoj

Founding Member

Sep 4, 2002

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Detroit

Aug 29, 2005

#1

• Aug 29, 2005

• #1

I was going to get a summit universal radiator. My 68 came with a/c origionally so it has the saddle mounts to run the larger 69' radiator. I'm not at home until the end of the week and can't measure it, but I want to order it so when I get home its waiting for me.

What size do you guys reccomend? Also I'm running a manual transmission.

 

68 Coop

New Member

Aug 13, 2005

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Mesquite, NV

Aug 29, 2005

#2

• Aug 29, 2005

• #2

Just to clearify, are you talking about rows or width??? Go with a 3+ or 4 row, and it should be at around 22 1/4" to 22 1/2" inches wide. Hope this helps.

 

DarkoStoj

Founding Member

Sep 4, 2002

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Detroit

Aug 29, 2005

#3

• Aug 29, 2005

• #3

i was looking for overall width. I have the saddle mounts on my mustang so it doesn't bolt directly into the radiator support. I was thinking it was more along the lines of ~30"

I was going to get the $180 2 core summit aluminum rad.

Just curious, what to do about the bottom outlet being on the drivers side on the bottom of the radiator. Could I just get a different water pump? If I were to get a different water pump what should I do about the timing pointer?

 

67coupestang

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May 31, 2002

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Aug 29, 2005

#4

• Aug 29, 2005

• #4

ive got the summit 2 row and i think i squeezed in the 24"er but its tight on the battery. I also swapped water pumps to run the drivers side outlet, i dont have a timing pointer on mine but i think you have to swap sides and remark the harmonic balancer.

 

1

10secgoal

Active Member

Dec 1, 2003

2,801

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San Diego

Aug 30, 2005

#5

• Aug 30, 2005

• #5

Yep, switched to rev drive water pump, and had to cut a good nit outta the core support to get it to fit. I don't remember the dimensions, but it was I think the medium of the trhee ford radiators. It barely fits between the frame rails.

 

M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2002

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North Carolina

Aug 30, 2005

#6

• Aug 30, 2005

• #6

68 with ac was 24 1/4' wide by 16" high with a 1 1/2" inlet and 1 3/4" outlet both located on the right side.
If he switches to a reverse rotation pump, would he have to go serpentine to spin it the right direction?
If you can't find one with the outlets on the right side, you could fab a piece to work by using a short section of radiator hose clamped to the radiator. Clamp this onto some metal pipe crossing over to the correct side of the engine. Clamp another piece of hose to connect to the pump. This would require curved sections of hose so the pipe could be straight and run under the fan.

 

J

jbuening

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Apr 28, 2005

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Aug 31, 2005

#7

• Aug 31, 2005

• #7

You may also check with Northern Radiator and www.radiatorconnection.com. On my 70, i went with a 19"x 26 which in fact ended up being 27.5" overall. This just barely fit between the frame rails but i don't know the width between the rails on the earlier cars. I also had to move the battery to the trunk, as the battery tray was in the way. I think on ebay, there is a user named UniversalParts that sells pretty cheap radiators also and can get anything you want. I highly recommend getting the proper hose config on the radiator. You'll have to get a new timing cover, water pump, and different accessory brackets if you swap pump outlet sides. Since the hoses are both on the passenger side, a standard cross flow doesn't do much for you. On the passenger upper/drivers lower hose config, the coolant enters the radiator on the passenger side and has to flow through the fins to get to the drivers side lower hose. In your case it can come in the passenger upper and go out the passenger lower without having to go through the radiator IIRC. A dual pass radiator will correct this and require the fluid to flow through the radiator before entering the motor.

 

LMan

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Aug 10, 2002

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Mom's basement

Aug 31, 2005

#8

• Aug 31, 2005

• #8

before you go changing water pumps, why not use a different lower radiator hose? helluva lot cheaper and easier....

 

thehueypilot

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Feb 25, 2004

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Medina,Tennessee

Aug 31, 2005

#9

• Aug 31, 2005

• #9

Wow....all that to go to a crossflow aluminum radiator that may or may not cool better then the brass/copper, 4 core, big block radiator? There has got to be a better way than cutting and relocating items to get them to fit.

 

J

jbuening

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Apr 28, 2005

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Aug 31, 2005

#10

• Aug 31, 2005

• #10

LMan said:

before you go changing water pumps, why not use a different lower radiator hose? helluva lot cheaper and easier....

Click to expand...

True, he could get one of those flex hoses (bought mine on ebay, 48" length) and run the hose from the passenger side to the driver side but i am not sure if anyone has done that. Might have clearance issues with the pulleys/belts and some tight angles on the bends.

A reverse flow pump will require serpentine belts by the way. I noticed that mentioned above.

 

LMan

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Aug 10, 2002

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Mom's basement

Aug 31, 2005

#11

• Aug 31, 2005

• #11

I have an alum AFCO. When I ordered, I made sure I got one where the *Lower* radiator outlet matched the water pump inlet (passenger side in my case). This, obviously, placed the upper radiator inlet on the drivers side, which was the opposite of stock.

so..I then went to the local NAPA and browsed through their stock of upper radiator hoses and found one that mated the upper inlet/outlets.

Took about 10 minutes to find one. Simple.

 

67coupestang

Founding Member

May 31, 2002

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Aug 31, 2005

#12

• Aug 31, 2005

• #12

yea i didnt cut anything to get mine to fit. i used 69 cougar hoses, which i had to trim a bit, an i had to build all the brackets to hold it in from scratch, but nothing permanant to the car.

 

1

10secgoal

Active Member

Dec 1, 2003

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San Diego

Sep 1, 2005

#13

• Sep 1, 2005

• #13

Something to think about...Summit radiators are Northerns. It is even stamped on the side. They are fully welded and will hold together with a 25lb cap.