when it stops working
a word of caution tho, on a hatch that i flipped(not like rolled, bought cheap and sold), the actuator was junk and you could not lock or unlock the door period, i took the junk one out and just left it with no actuator, but if you were stuck for a few days without being able to lock the car it would definitly suck
What is the concern with removing the door panel? I'd replace it now since you seem to like using the key to lock the door.
I might be hesitant if the door panel has never been off ever. The vapor barrier would be pristine, etc. Otherwise if someone else has been in there before, I'd go for it. It's not tough but sometimes the trees are old and break.
I could not lock the DSide door when I got my car but the pass side worked fine. I got a replacement cheap actuator (they didn't even send me a new rivet). I discovered I had to shear the aluminum rivet holding the motor on with a chisel (no problem) on the outside of the door. Removed the actuator easily then. Tested the new one and it worked twice and quit. Good thing I didn't buy a separate rivet!! I just left it off since I can lock my door just by pushing the button down and closing it and the passenger side still works off the power switch.
My 84 and 86 both have to be key opened anyhow so I never feel the need to fix it now. The passenger side would drive me nuts tho' and being convertibles I rarely lock them anyhow.
**Later I found a guy in our yellow pages who will come to my house and repair/replace any window or lock mechanizm for a modest price. He knows how to carefully remove all panels, water barriers and has the correct tools and parts to finish the job which he guarantees for 12 months. I won't be doing any of those inside door jobs again so long as he's still around.
If the car is really pristine, I'd leave it be till you have to deal with it then.
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