Will New Water Pump be immediately damaged if Power Steering Pulley is a little tough to rotate?

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mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
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I mean coolant shooting out the radiator cap cold is not good.
Yours just looks a bit rusty to me
Flush it again when you can afford it
It didnt shoot out cold, it wasn't until it warmed up a lot and had been running it under rpm, and then I turned the heat on, and then it started to pump out some. I never posted a pic of the murky coolant yet, maybe I will later. I'm flushing it with just water.
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
112
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When I goy my old Jeep the heater was clogged with rust particles. I blew it out with the hose, and it took three times. Full of mud.
Ok I just got a hose adaptor thing that may be able to squeeze into my heater core hose and we'll see if I can blow out some of the mud. I did just drive the car on a short trip for the first time, and it did seem very hot at the front. When I propped up the hood stand it was really really hot. Also the plastic covering that goes over the radiator and a/c condenser was also really really hot. Like it seemed way more hot than normal. During driving I did lose some water due to burping while driving, so I'm thinking it was just some air that got in the system and heated up a lot. Hoping it's not somehting more serious.

Any advice on the pics I took of the intake manifold? Is that small gap ok? It just seemed like the other 5 rectangular sections lined up more snugly than that middle one on the driver's side. It is a v6 engine.
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
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I also got some Prestone cleaner, after I try to flush out the heater core some I will drain and do a fresh fill with water and the cleaner. I got 2 so I will drive it a good bit on 1 first and see if my results improve then do the 2nd one shortly after.

Also the gap in the 1st picture is on the right side of the photo, it's kind of upside down. It's hard to see so the 2nd pic is a close up of the gap.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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I also got some Prestone cleaner, after I try to flush out the heater core some I will drain and do a fresh fill with water and the cleaner. I got 2 so I will drive it a good bit on 1 first and see if my results improve then do the 2nd one shortly after.
Follow the instructions on the bottle and it should help without damaging anything. Adding vinegar or other non car specific stuff can be too harsh or ineffective.
 

cbxer55

Active Member
Jan 25, 2020
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Oklahoma
I replaced the water pump in mine earlier this year. I had no problems with filling it or air bubbles. Filled it after the pump was done, let it idle in the garage 15 minutes or so, then let it cool down overnight. Had to add maybe a quart the next morning. Took it for a drive around my favorite twisty curvy road after topping it. Let it sit overnight again. Had to add maybe a pint. No more since then.

I wonder if driving it around a hard twisty curvy road helps to get bubbles out of the nooks and crannies?
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
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For sure, and some inclines. So far car seems to be running good and I think it's starting to get less murky. Actually driving it and not just idling and revving really helped get more out. I think the vibrations from driving also help get things out of the nooks and crannies.
 
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mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
112
9
18
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When I goy my old Jeep the heater was clogged with rust particles. I blew it out with the hose, and it took three times. Full of mud.
Finally got them damn hoses off the pipes. Saw some videos of people dismantling a ton of crap to take the hoses off the core itself and went with the easier route. This is what was missing from my flush, got a ton of gunk out, only had to do each side twice just to be safe. This was probably where I was getting continuous contamination from.

I'm skeptical about the Prestone cleaner after reading a few things. I will alter the directions a little for a milder cleaning. It says pour in empty, I will pour in after I have filled up mostly with water. I may also only start with 1/2 a bottle. It says minimum 10 mins, max of 3 to 6 hours for heavy duty. I will start with 10 to 15 mins of light driving then drain and fill with water. Then I will drive around a little and turn on the heat. Then I will drain and fill with water maybe 1 or 2 more times. Depending on results I will then fill with DI water and manufacturer recommended concentrate. Depending on how cheap the DI water I find is I may also flush with just DI water, but I'm not too worried about residual tap water with the coolant. I plan on draining again in 8 to 12 months. I'll save the remaining 1.5 bottles for another time. Before next summer maybe I'll do another light cleaning.
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
112
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Ran 1/2 a bottle for 10 mins. Now I have some dripping underneath the car and a very high pitched whining noise. Like a beeeeeeeeeeeep at a high frequency. I'll post a video later if I can. I see some old splatter on back of engine block, not sure if this is from when the tstat leaked previously. Everything seems dry from the heater core pipes in the engine bay. No leakage on passenger floor board or inside the car. It's leakin behind the oil pan towards the back of the car. A good amount of drips.

Got no heat currently but I think it's just a bubble in the system still that I need to burp. Please help. I can't remember if the shop that did the rad and transmission put a sealer in the system or not. I'm freaking out I gotta get this thing driving.
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
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It seems to be more dirty coolant. I'm hoping I didn't mess something up with that prestone cleaner that I ran for 10 mins. It's leaking from the middle of the car and I can't see any leaking from the engine area. Could flushing the heater core with just a water hose dislodge something internally and cause it to leak?
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
112
9
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I was able to get some videos of the leaking areas.

1st video is beneath car where major leaking is.

2nd video I got some dripping from a metal pipe, not sure what it is, but I actually saw some other dripping but couldn't get my phone deep enough. I'm not sure if the pipe shown dripping in the video is the source or if it's just running off there.

3rd video is the sound of the high frequency whine I'm hearing. It may just be water/dirty coolant dripping on something rotating or something, not sure. At one point I did hear a slight hissing too, but when I shut the car off I didn't quite hear the hissing anymore. It may have just been something burning off the muffler.
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
112
9
18
Fl
Certainly the flush procedure could have made your heater core leak
Not common
Check the HVAC case drain for any wetness from either flush or antifreeze

I had a trusty friend check it out in person. He also confirmed it could be a/c drain lines getting clogged. I hadn't driven the car in a bit so maybe there was some growth. He said it could be water dripping on rusty stuff beneath the car which would resemble the rusty stuff I'm getting out of my coolant. I was super relieved. While I was driving I took a hard right turn and felt some hot water on my leg near the pedal. I thought it may be dirty coolant but I felt it and it looked just like clear water from backup I guess. It was really leaking at first though under the car and had me worried. I played around with the A/c some and drove over some bumpyish stuff (nothing extreme) to try and dislodge any backup that I could and I don't really see it leaking anymore. I wasn't able to get beneath the car with my alpha chassis so could not try to fit anything into the a/c drain line. I guess I'll have to invest in a jack and few pairs of stands at some point.

I'm worried about using the rest of the prestone flush since half a bottle had me freaking out. I literally almost went and put sealer in the system or bypassed the heater core. I'll monitor it and may at some point try a little flush again. It did soap up a bit like a detergent, so I definitely recommend flushing 2 or 3 times after. It dislodged stubborn gunk from my coolant reservoir pretty good.
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
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I chickened out flushing my Jeep. I only left thr stuff in there for a half hour or less. I let the water do the work.
That's more than I did, I only drove for 10 mins before draining it. I didn't want to let it sit in case too much sat in the new water pump and ate at a seal or something. I think I may just do a few more water flushes and then put some coolant in it to hold the system over. I may do another quick flush in 2 or 3 months. I don't think I'll ever get everything out unless I risk dislodging too much at one time or potentially ruining a seal. I'm sure my car is already 90% better.
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
112
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So I was still having vapor/smoke coming through AC vents and thought I should do another flush. Used 1/4 bottle of prestone and drove it for 1.5 hours hard. Flushed again and was still losing coolant and the thing is smoking like crazy in my face. Thought I could burn it out so did some runs until I could feel it getting good and hot. Under hard acceleration vapor starts pillowing through the vents. Heat is on full blast and I'm burning up in the car with the heat coming through the dash. The dash started popping up all over. I get the feeling something's not right and I'm getting massive headaches from the smoek and I finally pull off the highway and the entire coolant reservoir is empty. I was prepared just in case and had 3 gallons distilled riding shotgun. I take it to a guy and he says it smells like nothing he's never smelled in his entire life. He says it's maybe dust.. I say sure this don't smell like coolant I think it's coolant. All the signs point to it being coolant, and it also smells like coolant. He says no way is that coolant nad it's probably dust getting burned up with UV dye and freon and recommended a 2nd opinion. I flush the core again and turns out it was the heater core leaking all along under the car, not the ac drain lines like I thought earlier. I should have noticed when I flushed it the first time but thought I spilled some from the hose. I found a bypass hose at a store, turns out it's backwards orientation from what I needed but I was able to trim it some and rig it up to my pipes playing with some worm clamps. Heater core was just replaced few months ago, but somehow it went bad quick. Ever since I had a shop do a coolant flush is when I noticed big whooshes when I would start the car. They also added some unknown coolant. They must have cracked something doing the flush, or failed to burp it and then things got too hot. The next day after the flush from the shop was when the whooshes started. Cleaned off my grounds really good thought even electrolysis. I'll get a meter one of these days, confirmed with test light and got strong readings on my grounds. Car seems to be running good and hoses are holding. I still can't believe it was the heater core.
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
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Roy, Utah
Electrolysis is common and bad (early 96 Taurus freeze plugs did not last a year)
GM has a technical bulletin to test the voltage in the coolant
Some have 3+ volts and that is a problem
Their solution is added ground wires
Just use your dvom to check. Put the red probe in the coolant with the engine running
 

mustystang

Claiming to be an Alpha Chassis
Aug 20, 2022
112
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I'll get one at some point. If I get one I want a good one. Got any recommendations? Some people say get one that can measure ohms, but the cheapest one at the auto store had ohms on it. Or do they mean get a better quality ohm reader? I think the one at the store may have said do not exceed 500 cca, so that would be useless for my car battery I think.