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Wired Alarm Tonight, Problem With Locks

  • Thread starter Thread starter HGFireHazard
  • Start date Start date Jun 8, 2009

HGFireHazard

Member
Apr 10, 2005
460
0
17
Michigan
Jun 8, 2009
#1
  • Jun 8, 2009
  • #1
I followed this thread for a lot of my preparation before I decided to jump in and do it myself. My car doesn't have the factory keyless box in the trunk nor does the dome light turn on when I lift the door handle.

I wired up 2 relays exactly the way the Actuators / Reverse Polarity diagram shows here

I then connected the 'purple' wire to the to the pink/yellow wire underneath the kick panel, and the 'lighter blue' wire to the pink/green in the same location as the other wire.

I powered and grounded the relay as shown and I've looked the darn thing over and over and over again. When I armed the system the doors didn't work, but I heard a weird electrical noise which I knew wasn't good. I disarmed the system and tried to push the door lock button the door and it made the same sound, then the 'light blue' wire started smoking. I pulled the fuses and am now racking my brain, I have no idea what went wrong.

After unhooking the relays the door locks work just fine, thankfully. The only direction my book gives is that (-) lock and (+) unlock output go to the green wire in the kit, and the (-) unlock and (+) lock go to the blue wire.

I tested to ensure I had the correct car wires and they both light my test light when I ground the wire and push the appropriate button.

Did I have a bad relay, can you think of something I did wrong in my description? I have two more relays and harnesses that I can use to try again, but I'm hesitant to do the same thing because I'm afraid I did something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Jun 9, 2009
#2
  • Jun 9, 2009
  • #2
Thinking aloud:
After you cut each of the two lock wires, did you check which side was showing 12V when the lock button and unlock buttons were used? The wire which goes to the N.O. terminal (87A) will be the one that lights the test light while pushing the respective lock or unlock button. The dead side goes to the motor.

Otherwise, check the relay wiring one more time. Be sure 30 and 87 (an 87A) are not misplaced.
 

HGFireHazard

Member
Apr 10, 2005
460
0
17
Michigan
Jun 9, 2009
#3
  • Jun 9, 2009
  • #3
JT, I appreciate the reply.

I believe that I hooked the wrong side of one motor wire to one relay. I'm not entirely sure why that would have caused that one wire to burn up, but I'm confident I'll be able to get it going this time.

I have to wait until a store opens so I can go buy an in-line fuse to avoid burning up another anything. I was dumb for not doing it the first time, but I forgot about it and was already 7 hours or so in and didn't want to run to the store. I fell asleep at midnight and my dog woke me up at 4 and needed to go out, and I haven't been back to sleep since. The good news is that everything else works just great, I just need to re-wire the relays, re-test, and then do a crap ton of wire and relay hiding.

Anywho, I'll update when I make some progress.
 

HGFireHazard

Member
Apr 10, 2005
460
0
17
Michigan
Jun 9, 2009
#4
  • Jun 9, 2009
  • #4
Things ended up working out just great the second time around, it was that wire switched around.

Now I can call my insurance agent and hope to get some premium knocked off.

Here is another diagram that was helpful for me in wiring the doors. This is for a car without factory keyless entry.

Also, the switch side of the wires for me were the ends closer to the front of the car. Of course, though, anyone else should verify that on their own car with a meter or test light.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Jun 10, 2009
#5
  • Jun 10, 2009
  • #5
Nice work brah.
 
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