Progress Thread Working on something else...rant included

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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With the bmw sensor you could use two relays and a diode. The low speed would ground the low speed relay by itself. The high speed fan relay would have two wires coming off the trigger....the one going to the low speed would have a diode in it. That way when low speed is triggered the ground path can't go to the high relay... but on high it would allow flow to both.
 
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a91what

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Does the Holley allow you to add timing adaptively to help control the idle speed? If so it is the single most effective way to stop an idle stumble.
 

droopie85gt

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With the bmw sensor you could use two relays and a diode. The low speed would ground the low speed relay by itself. The high speed fan relay would have two wires coming off the trigger....the one going to the low speed would have a diode in it. That way when low speed is triggered the ground path can't go to the high relay... but on high it would allow flow to both.
I like this thinking. And there's someone on ebay selling a NPT plug drilled and tapped for the metric thread of the BMW sensor!!!

:hail:
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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I did find out that the fox mustang runs at about 210 factory with a 192 thermostat. 200 is about a quarter up on the factory gauge. My car runs around 203- 207. The factory needle has never been halfway. The 305 and 350 chevys seem to run around 210- 220 with a 195 t stat factory. Couldn't find a cooler fan switch. However, I do remember replacing several of them. The replacements looked like ther ones available through summit and required the factory wire to be cut. The new sensor took a blade type terminal... the factory had that round plug.

Guess that's the same info you came across.
 

stanglx2002

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You are not going to find a factory fan switch that will come on that low. I do not know of any manufacturer that runs there engine coolant that low as most range from 190*-195*. The typical turn on of a fan is 10*-15* above the thermostat due to the fan not running all the time. If you have a 180* thermostat you should really have the fan turn on around 190*-195* if you are trying to keep the temps down.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I also picked up a couple of goodies this week. A MSD power filter for the Digital 6. And the most amazing thing (to me) READER power safety glasses! Because sometimes you have to be grinding AND need to read the instructions or you have to lay on your back with your face about 1 foot from where you need to drill and grind and it helps if you can see the piece clearly!

Getting old isn't for the faint of heart, my 87 year old dad always says that.

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And yes, these are SAFETY Crocs
!
If this was me posting the pic, I would've retaken it if I had my shadow, or foot in the shot. ( What can I say, I'm just weird that way)
Where did you get the full reader safety glasses, and what power are they? The only ones I've ever been able to find have the "reader" parts at the top and bottom of the lens' and forces you to tip your head to be able to look through the magnifier.
 

droopie85gt

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You are not going to find a factory fan switch that will come on that low. I do not know of any manufacturer that runs there engine coolant that low as most range from 190*-195*. The typical turn on of a fan is 10*-15* above the thermostat due to the fan not running all the time. If you have a 180* thermostat you should really have the fan turn on around 190*-195* if you are trying to keep the temps down.

Yeah that's what I figured, so I think I'll go with the idea to have the BMW dual switch trip both relays with a diode in the 2nd fan to keep the first one on. I need to draw a diagram so i can see how that works.


If this was me posting the pic, I would've retaken it if I had my shadow, or foot in the shot. ( What can I say, I'm just weird that way)
Where did you get the full reader safety glasses, and what power are they? The only ones I've ever been able to find have the "reader" parts at the top and bottom of the lens' and forces you to tip your head to be able to look through the magnifier.
I read the description wrong on Amazon. They are readers...like bifocals. Still good when cutting and trying to follow a line. I am sure that @Noobz has the procedure you need to find such a beast.
 

droopie85gt

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With the bmw sensor you could use two relays and a diode. The low speed would ground the low speed relay by itself. The high speed fan relay would have two wires coming off the trigger....the one going to the low speed would have a diode in it. That way when low speed is triggered the ground path can't go to the high relay... but on high it would allow flow to both.
Do you have a quick diagram on how that looks. I am pretty sure I understand, but I also say I usually understand and then let the magic smoke out.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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I'm no electrametician.... but....

20181114_232427.jpg


I have 20 amp fuses on my contour fans and they work well. Most manufacturers use 30amp fuses...except the old fords used 40amp.

Running the fans with ground triggering means you can run a wire in the car for a toggle without worrying about burning the car down.

I'm not sure about the orientation of the diode. They only allow current flow one way. This schematic would allow the high and low fan to be cut on with the toggle. The power wire to the 5amp fuse could be run to ignition power instead of battery. The way its wired the fans would stay on until the car cools to the point the switch cuts them off. ( most manufacturers will run fans after ignition is off ).

Manufacturers nowadays always use ground triggering circuits. It keeps live 12v wires out of the interior.
 
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droopie85gt

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Awesome. Although after thinking about it over a beer last night, I've resolved myself to swapping to the HP ecu. If I want another one for another project, I just saw one on CL for $700 OR I will just get a MS3. And f the outputs! I'll still have one free for a meth nozzle if I put the Powerdyne on. 4 outputs, 2 fans, 1 A/C cut out and 1 meth nozzle.
 

droopie85gt

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Random late night question that even google doesn't seem to let me know 100%. Does a 3.7 V6 and late model 5.0 share bellhousing? Are they different?
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Very good question...
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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41
The ecoboost v6...na 3.5 and 3.7 all carry the same bellhousing bolt pattern. The 5.0 is different from all the info I can find at this time. It's in a write up about the ford 3.5 crate engine.
 

droopie85gt

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@90sickfox thanks for the reply! I think I figured it out.

Quicktime lists different bellhousings. It was some drunk thinking. PA trans makes adapters to put a 6r80 behind a windsors. US Shift makes a controller, Stifflers makes a crossmember. I got excited at first when I saw that stock 6r80 eat up 700hp all day. I got really excited when I saw on ebay 45k mile 6r80 going for $500. I got less than excited when I saw engine adapter is $550 and controller is $1250. Still it's cheaper than any other trans option I am looking at other than buying a G force gear set and building the trashed T5 I have in boxes in the attic. Plus before I put a blower on the 302 or swap the 351, I could sell the less than 1000 mile T5Z I have and the 6r80 swap becomes edible. I need to email PA and ask if their adapter works with any 6R80 or just the V8.

My next step I think is to get a console with shifter and see how I can make it fit in my 85. But anyhoo, the short answer is 3.7 has a different bellhousing pattern than mod motors.

And I REALLY need to get it put back together AND RUNNING before I worry about swapping transmissions. Unless someone wants to buy the complete 302/T5Z out of my car as is. ??