Would it be worth it to invest large amounts of money into the handling of my FOX...

Dangalang

Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
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Sacramento
... or buy a newer model Mustang? After I decide what car I want to keep, I will be investing lots of money into it over the next few years until I have the Mustang I really want, wich is a FAST car that handles VERY well. I already have a FOX, but if buying a newer model Mustang would promise superior handling potential, then of course I would rather buy a newer one. I know that the Mustang FOX aftermarket is HUGE, but two other things also come to mind. First off I understand that the aftermarket hasn't exactly caught up with the later generation Mustangs, also, common sense tells me that newer technology means better. The handling characteristics I want are:

  • EXTREME stability, even at high speeds
  • Improved turning radius
  • Stiff handling, yet somewhat smooth ride
  • Ability to "lean" into curves at high speeds like a german car, without loosing control like a typical Mustang
 
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Anything you can do to an sn95 you can do to a fox and the fox starts out lighter. Unless you are going to buy a newer cobra that has IRS I would use the fox as a platform for a car you want to handle good (yes, you can swap an IRS into a fox body but it would be pretty expensive). Both cars are pretty much the same platform underneath the skin.

Everythng you described that you want can be done with either an sn95 or a fox for probably close to the same money (although a fox can be had for much cheaper), but personally I would start with a 88-93.

Fox pro's: Cheaper, Lighter, Parts generally cheaper

Sn95 pro's: #1 advantage-Start out with much better braking setup, stiffer steering/suspension stock
 
Dangalang said:
The handling characteristics I want are:

  • 1.EXTREME stability, even at high speeds
    2.Improved turning radius
    3.Stiff handling, yet somewhat smooth ride
    4.Ability to "lean" into curves at high speeds like a german car, without loosing control like a typical Mustang

1. Properly setup roadrace suspension will get you that.
2. Not going to happen with a Mustang, especially since you'll need more tire all around for the handling you want.
3. See #1.
4. See #1. Your Mustang wont feel like a German sports car, but it should be able to keep up wth many on a road course. Maybe not any GT3 Porches, but many others.

A Fox3 will be lighter and cheaper(and easier to get since you already have one), but will require more suspension and brake work. You'll mainly be converting the front spindles to SN95 for the better brakes and geometry. Other than that, both cars will need about the same amount of work. Work like LCAs, subframes, k-member, panhard bar, torque arm or Watts link, rollcage, springs, shocks, sway bars, control arms, coil overs, rims, tires, etc.

The Cobra IRS is a toss-up. Its heavier/weaker than an 8.8, and is debatable whether an IRS Mustang is faster around a road course than one with a stick axle rear.
 
raphate said:
stay with fox..for above reasons..but also look at this way. for the price of buying a new mustang..that could be money u coulda spent on the fox
True, but saving money isn't an issue with me. Not because I'm rich (wich I'm farrrrr from), but my FOX will be needing lots of money just to get it running again considering it may need major motor work. So in my situation I probably wouldn't save much money either way, ya know?
Anything you can do to an sn95 you can do to a fox and the fox starts out lighter. Unless you are going to buy a newer cobra that has IRS I would use the fox as a platform for a car you want to handle good (yes, you can swap an IRS into a fox body but it would be pretty expensive). Both cars are pretty much the same platform underneath the skin.
What's exactly is "IRS"?
2. Not going to happen with a Mustang, especially since you'll need more tire all around for the handling you want.
So basically nothing can be done to improve turning radius?
 
Griggs is the best in the world for any mustangs, but MAX. Motorsports is real close, one of those 2 will get you handling upwords of .90G, if you have the money. As far as a smooth ride. Not gonna happen with the panhard bar and tq arm setup. Fox body mustang tend to ride really rough with these setups, but you will feel like you are on rails for sure. Plan on setting mine up for road race, I've seen some fox body's and sn-95 hang with the porsches
 
Is the hatchback fox body more aerodynamic than the 94-04 models? I heard that the 89 LX is the most aerodynamic Mustang ever produced, I wonder if that's true? If so it would help a little with handling at high speeds.
 
What do you want to bump this for? Have you gone to Griggs or MMs site?

How much is your budget?

If you want a good handling car, it is going to add up fast to about 2-3 grand any way you look at it. By the time you get the wheels, tires, struts and parts. Then even more if you have to pay someone else to do it.

But here is my inexpensive suggestions:

front coilover kit
HAL tubular K member (increased wheelbase)
tubular A arms (purchase with Sn95 balljoints, D&D will do it for you)

Strut tower brace (mm preferred)
J&M, MM or Griggs CC plates
"performance" alignment
Urethane sway bar bushings and endlink bushings
Urethane rack bushings

Sn95 spindles and corresponding brakes (all other parts required here also to convert)
Rear disc brake conversion (5 lug of coarse, stock track preferred)
Ebrake mod, cables, FMS parts and MC swap adapted

MM, Griggs or J&M LCAs
Stock 4cyl or FMS HD UCAs
Ditch the quads and supporting mounting hardware
MM or Griggs PHB
MM or Griggs to help you pick a rear set of springs determined on the front rate
Koni yellow SA or DA shocks/struts

Subframe connectors -- MM or griggs welded in

That should pretty much cover it. Basics here is to increase the wheelbase, lose some weight with the tubular parts, stiffen chassis with the brace and subs installed, new LCAs and a PHB. That is the basics beyond the brakes , tires and wheels. Once you do all this, the car will rail! and you are one step away from a 3 link with just the addition of the TA on the car.
 
The one thing that hasn't been hit on hard is the relative flexibility of the fox unibody. THe best suspension components in the world don't help much if you've got the unibody/chassis flexing like crazy when you try to put big cornering loads into it. So be sure you stiffen up the structure too - ShelbyClone touched on it - subframe connectors and a properly designed and tied-in roll cage will do it, if you're gonna get serious about handling. That's probably the biggest advantage the newer cars have over the older ones - they have much stiffer unibody structures. But I'd rather add the right cage, and take advantage of the older car's lighter weight.
 
bubbas02gt said:
I just saw that MRT ( www.mustangracing.com) has got their Fox body suspensions on sale for like $500.00 shocks, struts, and springs.


That suspension would be a decent street setup but will not get the original poster anywhere near where he says he wants to go. If the original poster does not know what an IRS is then I have doubts about his knowledge with suspensions. All I can suggest to you is read as much as you can about suspension, and then ask questions.