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Yet another EGR issue...

  • Thread starter Thread starter StangLou
  • Start date Start date May 15, 2006

StangLou

Active Member
Jul 9, 2003
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Holly Springs, NC
May 15, 2006
#1
  • May 15, 2006
  • #1
Ok guys, I searched but didnt find exactly what I was looking for. For over the last year I have had several emission codes pop up. They are the following...

Code 33: EGR Valve Position sensor or PFE sensor indicates EGR valve is not opening or not seated (closed properly)

Code 41: EGO sensor: voltage always lean, does not switch

Code 91: EGO sensor always indicates lean during engine run self test or normal engine operating condition.

I have put on a new egr valve, new gasket, and new egr harness with lines to all the egr pieces. I STILL get these codes!!!

Any ideas why the comp is thinking the egr is not sealing properly? If there was no vacuume present to open the valve how would I be able to check this. Simply start the car and check each line for vacuume?

Also, the ego codes are basically O2 sensors right? The 2 ego codes showed their faces after my l/t and midpipe install which makes sense. Im guessing I can get a chip burned to "eliminate" those codes right?

None of these are permanent codes. The CEL comes on after 10 mins of driving or so. Every now and then Ill get an EGR stuck in "open" loop code as well. A nice RICH smell follows and I can pretty much watch my gas gauge move .

NC just got rid of emissions for anything w/o OBD II so Im clear with that. I just want to get rid of the freaking light! Can I just delete the thing to free up some room, and as said above have the chip burned to compensate for this?

Any help with these would be greatly appreciated!
 

jrichker

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May 15, 2006
#2
  • May 15, 2006
  • #2
Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1 ohm.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 5in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 5in vacuum

The operation of the EGR vacuum regulator can be checked by using a test light applied across the wiring connector. Jumper the computer into self test mode and turn the key on but do not start the engine. You will hear all the actuators (including the EVR vacuum regulator) cycle. Watch for the light to flicker: that means the computer has signaled the EGR vacuum regulator successfully.

Code 41 or 91 - O2 indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.

The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.

When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote

Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter.

Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

In your case check the O2 sensor wiring for damage. If you don't find any, plan on replacing the O2 sensors. This is not a code that a custom chip will properly fix.
 
G

grn92conv

New Member
May 15, 2006
28
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0
May 15, 2006
#3
  • May 15, 2006
  • #3
If you have the stock cam, vacuum at the tree should be around 18"hg.
 
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