Time for a new clutch

So i swapped out the quadrant and cable.
Removed the firewall adjuster.
The cables are the same from a foxbody to a new edge, but it's about 8 inches longer.
Had to cut the bottom half of the white grommet off to get the cable out of the firewall. that's how tight the valve cover to the firewall is.
I didn't install any firewall adjuster, so i used the longer distance hook. There is no point in one because of the value cover clearance issue.

Still had to learn some lessons again.
First off, why i don't default to removing the seat i'm not sure.
Second, why did i spend 3 minutes looking for the quadrant (that I installed) all the way to the left? I realize the pedal is there, but for some reason i forgot it was towards the passenger side.

You can see in the pic the difference in the quadrant. I'd say the steeda version has a mechanical advantage with the curve being longer. Also the red one fraid the cable where it hooks. And it had no spacer bushing like the one that comes with the steeda.

The new cable moves much more freely.
Though now i have an issue on where to bolt it in because the bracket really doesn't line up with anywhere on the frame.
If i don't figure it out, i'll buy a fox cable again.
Took at least 5 routing methods to get it to where it is.
One thing to note about a modular swap, there just is no room for anything at head height. So the cable has to go in front of the alternator (which makes it too short) or towards the firewall which makes it a little too long.

So, did it solve my issue with a heavy pedal?
Well, it made it better.
For sure it moves much smoother and probably 20% less effort than before.
We will see when i actually drive it what the true verdict is.
And there is still some cable movement since i didn't bolt the bracket in yet.

.PXL_20240328_203429343.jpgPXL_20240328_203423642.jpgPXL_20240328_201547247.jpgPXL_20240328_200809029.jpg

Help! 78 II has no power to any electrical except headlights and taillights and hazards.

I'm not sure if this will help but I've had luck with it with different things in the past. Go out and buy yourself a wax toilet ring. Then, once you're attempting to put everything back together, take a bit of wax and stick the thermostat to the housing in a couple different places. It should make it stick well enough to get it installed and it shouldn't cause a problem with it sealing.

Help! 78 II has no power to any electrical except headlights and taillights and hazards.

Damn!
I just about got everything figured out and the (hopefully) last component is kicking my ass. I just cannot seem to get this thermostat in there properly. I have read both repair manuals and forums and still no useful advice for what I'm facing which is that when I go to bolt everything back together, the thermostat drops in between the gasket and the water pump, due to it being vertical on the engine instead of laying on top, causing a gaping hole and massive coolant leaks. Is there any solid advice that yall can give? I understand most of yall don't have the v6 so it is much easier but even just hypotheticals might help. If nobody has a better idea, I am just going to run no Tstat since for the foreseeable future, this car will only be seeing max 10 mile drives at a time.

Car popping car starts up but wants to die if I don’t hold pedal down

Ok I’ve had my battery connected for few days now and I started car it actually sounds like a truck or car with no mufflers, neways I have codes 85,10,11. I bought new spark plug wires. Still sounds like crap. Very low ideal and dies quick. I see my air filter looks like crap. Not sure if that would make a car run lean.Its dented and I make a tear in th rubber part. I’ll order one later. Along with those wires I got this book. Maybe it will help me find problem. I’m thinking it’s a fuel air problem seeing I have fuel in the intake and I’m running lean?

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‘89 LX 5.0 convertible mods

Global West on both of my Foxes. I like how they install next to the stock subrames so I did not loose any ground clearance as both my cars are fairly low.


The seat supports are a must in my opinion no matter what brand you go with.
got any pics of yours installed?
i really like the ground clearance on those

Sub frame connectors

Thanks. I ended buying the stifflers SFC. Cheaper than MMs. Can the web brace kit be added later on if I feel I need it?
Yep, not a problem to add later.

Wouldn't the web bracing be something more for a track car? No doubt it works but seems like overkill for a street car?
I think it's overkill anyway for the most part, but I can see how it might help on a vert. On a track car you're better off with a cage anyway.

Steeda 93-001 car

Unfortunately not much left of the stock Steeda parts. This car was setup as a drag car by the first owner (idk why ) so entire driveline, suspension and interior is swapped. At some point all steeda parts were sold or lost.
Currently it has a fresh rebuilt 351w with T5, full 3" exhaust, built rear end, aeromotive fuel tank and pump running to the carb. All black interior, original gray interior is gone. All suspension is gone, no steeda body kit anymore besides the wing.

I Hape alot of nice parts for it already so she will look great again and maybe at some point I will return it back to original as possible or let the next owner do that.
Current plans is the swap all suspension to what I have which is QA1 coilovers, 13" brakes and 18" wheels. Keep interior stock except for dakota digital cluster since none of the stock gauges work for being carbed.
Will get a new pain job and put all Steeda decals back on after.

I'll post as things happen
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Fuel Fuel line routing question..

Funny, as I found nothing about this on the internet or on any of the suppliers video's.. While there was plenty of info about re routing the brake line and actual kits to do it with in this same area due to the addition of the right side exhaust pipe..... Based on what I am encountering I would of thought that there would be alot of youtube fixes??
Thanks for the help and pics on here everyone....

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

Did you ever get a code [11] or [111]?
No. No Code 11. The EGR stuff is not installed and the port on the manifold is blocked. I will never have a Code 11, unfortunately.

The last time I pulled codes, it was on a sub-50 degree day and I got: 21, 22, 31, 67, 81, 82, 85 and 84.

The 21 and 22 are sensors out of range because of the cold and not testing with a warmed-up engine.
The 67 is because the Neutral Pressure Switch (clutch pedal) circuit is not connected. Once running, I can remedy that.
The rest are because of the EGR system being disabled. I'm told that these codes will simply disable those functions in the computer and are otherwise inconsequential.

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

That's not nice :nono:
Start over, you missed something, 180* out of timing or something, that thing should run
Lol. I'm sorry. That was frustration talking.
I have literally moved the distributor all over the place.


Sounds like you have the big three and it should start
Do a fuel quality test and make sure the gas is volatile as hell and will blow up a BBQ if used as lighter fluid
Did that checklist have a noid light test
I would perform that noid test on more than one injector
I would also manually fire a few injectors to verify the fuel pressure drops as I did so
Playing with my buddies MSD the other day on his 69 Camaro, I showed him how to rough time one
Set your motor to 10 BTDC on the crank, turn the key on and rotste the distributor back and forth making it spark a few times
Determine where you think the spark occurred and lock the distributor down right there
Maybe try that
We all have checklists, one of mine is a good visual inspection
Looks like yours has never ran before? it is so clean reddy351?
You get 2 spark testers on the car for the next try, one at a plug and one on the coil wire
I agree. Damn EEC-IV system.
The car was driving with the 2.3T in February. The gas is still really good. (Sh*t's got some KICK!)
I did the noid test on the 5 injectors I could reach without removing the upper intake.
Use a 9v battery to do "fire" the injector?
It has never ran before.
I did move the spark tester from the coil to the spark plug. Are you saying to do both at the same time?

Sub frame connectors

As far as suspension or chassis, I'd go with either Stifflers or Maximum Motorsports (and personally have both for my car). My SFC's are the MM full length powdercoated units and they are excellent with great install instructions. I've ordered thousands of dollars in parts from www.lmr.com and they are awesome with fantastic customer service, I'd highly recommend them.

MM set

Stifflers Set

Optional but I would on a vert.
Thanks. I ended buying the stifflers SFC. Cheaper than MMs. Can the web brace kit be added later on if I feel I need it?

‘89 LX 5.0 convertible mods

Global West on both of my Foxes. I like how they install next to the stock subrames so I did not loose any ground clearance as both my cars are fairly low.


The seat supports are a must in my opinion no matter what brand you go with.
Thanks for your input
What an awesome community!

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