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deserthoundLX · 2024-04-23T23:34:19-0500

Just got the car rolled out the garage and shown some love after a little over 3 years. Slow but steady its getting there

90sickfox · 2024-04-23T21:47:39-0500

Mstng93SSP said:
I have bent and destroyed 3 putty knives do far....

90sickfox · 2024-04-23T21:12:35-0500

The differences are the transmission harness under the car, the o2 sensor harness, and the computer. Without modification the reverse lights won't work. If a 5 speed computer is used the jumper in the o2 harness should be swapped around. You don't have to source new harnesses but will need a t5 reverse switch pig tail for the side of the trans. O2 sensor harness can have the wires swapped around but don't do it unless changing the computer. Computer isn't necessary but makes it a little easier to drive.

Mstng93SSP · 2024-04-23T21:05:09-0500

I have bent and destroyed 3 putty knives do far....

90sickfox · 2024-04-23T21:04:09-0500

When I first started working on cars I ised Permatex Super High Tack. Looked like yellow snot. I stopped using it the first time I has to remove something that stuff had glued together. Used a spackle knife and a hammer. Cussed the whole time. :fuss:

Stock90Notch · 2024-04-23T20:57:46-0500

General karthief said:
Man, need a better pic........is the glass coming outta the rubber?
What year is the car?

No, that rubber crap is just pealing off. It’s 1990

90sickfox · 2024-04-23T20:49:37-0500

limp said:
Were you around for the " Dial up" days of internet??

Yup. Sure was. I was around before home computers.

85GTStangGuy · 2024-04-23T20:02:46-0500

It may be a '90.

And word on the street is it's stock.

General karthief · 2024-04-23T19:43:02-0500

Man, need a better pic........is the glass coming outta the rubber?
What year is the car?

91AOD5.0LX · 2024-04-23T19:42:43-0500

You’re lucky enough to have a Notch because they reproduce the windows for your car with the “mustang” script on the glass if your able and willing to drop 700 bucks. Big coin but saves the trouble of trying to refinish them depending on your skill level plus you get new glass as well. Just another option to think about.

PS: I love those old school key scratch guards! Very nostalgic!

General karthief · 2024-04-23T19:38:23-0500

That snotty yeller sht used to be all you could get :shrug:

never had an issue but then ...........

nickyb · 2024-04-23T19:32:23-0500

I bought a used set of Metco upper and lower control arms 16 years ago, they completely eliminated wheel hop. I removed the quads about six years ago and no difference at all. I daily my stang and plant the rear wheels (245/45 17's ) regularly.

General karthief · 2024-04-23T19:20:51-0500

90sickfox said:
Hey man, its been a while. If it were me I'd just loosen the ball joint castle nut and pop them loose by tapping with a hammer on the spindle. Don't take them all the way off but pop those ball joints loose first. Removing the calipers and hanging them to the side is a must. Don't want to damage the brake hoses. Next would be loosening the tie rod arm at the nut on the arm and turn the inner tie rod to make sure the outter tie rod will unthread. They are a pain to get loose if the tie rod end is out of the spindle. The process from there; remove outter tie rod end, remove the strut bolts ( with jack stands under car and jack under control arm ). Lower the arm and spindle. Pry out spring, remove lower arm, remove strut top nut, remove factory camber plate, install new camper plates, strut, new control arm, new spring, jack up with lower arm, install spindle, install strut bolts, install bump steer kit, reinstall caliper. Leave control arm mounting bolts slightly loose like 5L5 stated.

The bump steer kit takes a bit to adjust properly. If you haven't already checked it out there is a way to make a bump steer gauge on YT. You want the tie rod to be inline with the center of the lower arm bolts and through the ball joint cup.

Wow...that was a long post. Glad to see your update. Kids take so much time. It's all worth it though.

You be drink'n the same coffee as me

Stock90Notch · 2024-04-23T19:09:14-0500

Picked up the car last year. Not sure what is going on with the quarter windows. It looks like it was rough rubber coating over the top. Everything I’ve read was sand, primer, sand, primer, seal, paint.

General karthief · 2024-04-23T18:58:14-0500

Naw, you have to work harder than that to offend most all of us 'regulars' here. It's just the first time I've heard about dry lifter rocker adjustments, the tech guy is correct about hydraulic lifters being forgiving.
Prolly why I have not had any issues with rocker arm adjustments, they feel sorry for me :doh:

2000xp8 · 2024-04-23T18:23:36-0500

If they fit with stock style quads flipped or with a small spacer, i personally would run them.
It's the tires that usually are the issue, people love to try and stuff the largest tire under the rear, which it doesn't sound like you will do.

JulianR · 2024-04-23T18:15:57-0500

AeroCoupe said:
Guess a lot of us have been doing it the wrong way for years. I’ll stick with my oil filled lifters as I know how to do it that way. May be different with stud mount rockers.

I am not sure why everyone is ganging up on me there was no attempt from me to say your method is wrong. I am simply gathering information from different people/sources and making my own opinion. What i find i post here for feedback. There are different ways of doing this and I'm looking for the way that makes sense to me. Did not mean to offend.

AeroCoupe · 2024-04-23T16:59:31-0500

Guess a lot of us have been doing it the wrong way for years. I’ll stick with my oil filled lifters as I know how to do it that way. May be different with stud mount rockers.

AeroCoupe · 2024-04-23T16:54:14-0500

It sure if this will get in there and penetrate but if it does it will soften that adhesive up.

limp · 2024-04-23T16:44:57-0500

AeroCoupe said:
Sounds like this got used:

View attachment 719822

I was thinking the same... Shop I worked at in the mid-late 70's used this to glue in Weatherstrip ..... It worked really well...
More concern here it was red loctite...... Lots of dumb people around....

limp · 2024-04-23T16:41:00-0500

90sickfox said:
Go to veryuseful.com and check out the schematic. I would post a link or pic but internet sucks here.

Were you around for the " Dial up" days of internet??

JulianR · 2024-04-23T15:29:54-0500

For others like me, who are reading this thread. I called Trick Flow Specialties, talked to a person for 20 minutes. Very helpful folks, btw. Wasn't the first time I asked them technical questions. I described what heads I have and what's not working. The person told me that pushrods are sold in 0.050 increments. Stock one is 6.250, next one up is 6.300. Doesn't matter what you measure in between, you need to pick one of the two. If you want, they can produce a custom pushrod to your exact size for an extra fee

He also said that hydraulic lifters are very forgiving. They have a check valve and fill with oil, so they compensate any mistakes people make on the preload/pushrod size. He explained that lifter preload, is the distance the spring-loaded plunger in the lifter travels down. He confirmed what I was talking about in my post with photos. He said getting to 0 lash with moving the pushrod is different for everyone. Some move it with more force some with less, thus the lifter compensates the preload they set. He did confirm the lifters should not be filled with oil when setting preload.

I just ordered a set of their 6.300" TFS pushrods and I should be on my way.

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