351 Cleveland swapped MII

I considered just moving the hole rack 1” towards the drivers side


They make rack extenders that would probably get you there.

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

Well, there are 30 year old Ford harnesses all over running around
I see no problem with a 30 year old Ford harness
IMO they are made of better wire than anything new
That said your new one shoulkd be made to work
You just might need my breakout box and about a hundred years of diagnosis time (going through all 60 pins of data one by one)
Seriously though, I would backprobe every wire on that processor and make damn sure the wires are going where they need to go and the resistance or voltage specs are spot on. That could take a while and a breakout box would sure be nice on this one. I use mine very seldomly

351 Cleveland swapped MII

I considered just moving the hole rack 1” towards the drivers side, but this would move my tie rod pivot points 1” out of sync with the control arms pivot points and potentially cause bump steer issues. I could move the rack housing and not the pivot points, by adjusting the alignment, but this would give me less cornering ability in one direction versus the other. Not ideal. So moving the hole things as a unit would be best except for changing the pivot locations. If there was away to to extend the internal shaft that one inch on passenger side and shorten 1” on drivers side, that would correct the tie rod pivot points. I’m just not sure if this is possible.

Fuel Fuel line routing question..

85 GT, do your fuel lines feed into the engine compartment like in my pic? The clamp in the middle of the pic holds the rubber line to it, which then turns 90 degrees towards the front of the car to the fuel pump..
I'll look at that today.

I tried to see my fuel line back by the rear axle, but couldn't get a decent viewing angle on it.

And what browser are you using to try to get to FEP? Maybe clearing the FEP cookie might reset things and help it work?

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

What I am saying about the translation
When the book you have says it is an Orange with Pink hash wire for instance
You get down there and there is Green with Red and Blue with Yellow, no Orange with pink
That is the error on a few circuits you may find
It was rampant on Non NAAO Fords, Probes and the Merkurs IMO

Progress Thread Let's try this again...

I've been thinking about my engine/transmission situation. I've said before that I wanted to make 350-400 lbft at the flywheel, but the more I think about how I actually drive the car, and also how much money would be required to get to that goal, the more I think I may be better off just having my current shortblock rebuilt, picking up a clean pair of GT40 heads, and calling it a day.

As much as I like to think otherwise, I primarily drive the car as a cruiser. Take it on errands, shows, etc. What I really want out of the car is to be able to drive it anywhere reliably while also having some fun with it.

I already have an explorer intake as well as some kind of mild cam (I don't know exactly what it is), along with a cold air intake and shorty headers. The car dyno'd a couple years ago at 235 rwhp and 290 lbft, so I think the main choke point is the heads, which are the stock E7s.

I figure with my current setup plus a set of GT40s and 24lb injectors I could make 260-280 rwhp? It would basically be a cobra engine with some extra oomph. That would give me a noticeable bump in power while also allowing me to use a T5 rather than having to upgrade to a TKX. I could always get the intake/heads ported to make a little more power in the future as well. I know I'd have to get a new MAF sensor for the new injectors.

Do you guys see any issues with this setup? I'm trying to be a little more realistic. I'd love to get a Blueprint 347 and a TKX, but I think I'm going to have to save that for the future when I'm a little more financially stable.

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

Well, if it doesn't work... Does it belong there?
Use the cobra harness or you need to turn to Spock for a mind meld
I am sure it can be done but how much time are you willing to spend on it?
Might be better to start with a Mustang harness
The Merkur is a German Ford and the schematics get fouled in translation
I don’t understand what you’re suggesting. The harness that I’m using is a brand new harness made for engine swapping the 5.0 Ford into any chassis. All I need to provide is 12v switched, 12v constant, 12v run and grounds. Those all exist for the harness, as it sits. There is nothing beyond that that is Ford of Europe.

I do have the EVTM for the car that was written in English by English as the first language writers. No issues with “translation”, whatsoever.

I’m not sure that a 30+ year old harness is going to make this any better.

351 Cleveland swapped MII

Yes. I’ve been looking at the offset bushing options. I think I can do a combination of several things that will yield the clearance I need. I’m considering raising the engine 1/2”. I’m also considering moving the engine 1/2” forward. Doing both of these options would give me roughly an inch of clearance between the header and shaft. Then I plan to rotate the steering rack towards the firewall. This by itself will yield the most clearance. But I am limited by how much I can rotate it. I want to rotate it the least amount necessary to prevent any extreme angles on my u joints on the steering shaft.
I also used a borgeson u-joint with a double DD end and a splined end that fits the fox steering rack. I than cut and grind the OEM steering shaft down to the double DD.
I already installed a second I joint when I converted from power steering to manual steering. With the second u joint in place, this should give me some options to rotate the rack and still stay within the operating angles of my steering shaft. My thought is to use offset bushings to crest this angle. By clocking the front and rear offset bushing 180 degrees from each other (front down, back up) then drilling the middle out to create a smooth consistent hole, this would rotate the rack slightly back causing the rack steering shaft to move at a more downward angle. This would create the most clearance. But I obviously am limited by how much I can rotate it to not put the hole shaft at to of an extreme angle. I just haven’t found anywhere online where anyone else has done this.

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

Well, if it doesn't work... Does it belong there?
Use the cobra harness or you need to turn to Spock for a mind meld
I am sure it can be done but how much time are you willing to spend on it?
Might be better to start with a Mustang harness
The Merkur is a German Ford and the schematics get fouled in translation

Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

Merkur XR4ti.... I had one for over 10 years as my beater car... Stock 4 cylinder 5 speed..
These are problem cars from new... They have to be constantly worked on, played with, and they still can give you fits...
Now I understand all of the problems you are having.......
That’s completely untrue.
Nice shoehorn job
What processor is in the XR4TI
What wiring harness?
It’s an A9L from an 89-93 Foxbody. The harness is an aftermarket one from Painless. It looks like it belongs there, doesn’t it?

Engine Foxbody idle/throttle issues

Injectors are fixed! My shop instructor had the right tool and spare filters for the job. Hopefully they all work properly and seal well.

In other news, I may be dormant for a while. We are in transmission class so I actually went ahead and got a clutch to do that, and while draining the fluid on my 3 year old tremec T5 from LMR with probably 30k miles on it (no track time) the fluid was so metallic it looked like paint. Explains the 5th gear grind I started receiving not long ago, aswell as issues with getting stuck in reverse. I believe the warranty only lasted a year. We go into spring break next week, so I won’t see the car for a bit. Guess I’m rebuilding the trans let’s just hope it runs decent after this is all done.

I will continue to update this forum as progress continues when we return to class. Thanks everyone for the help!

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Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

12 volts for the manual injector test
I use a spare injector connector and some test leads with alligator clips for the battery
I wire in a trunk release switch
That way, I push the momentary spring loaded trunk switch and the injector fires
I monitor the fuel pressure as I do that
What an awesome community!

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