For others like me, who are reading this thread. I called Trick Flow Specialties, talked to a person for 20 minutes. Very helpful folks, btw. Wasn't the first time I asked them technical questions. I described what heads I have and what's not working. The person told me that pushrods are sold in 0.050 increments. Stock one is 6.250, next one up is 6.300. Doesn't matter what you measure in between, you need to pick one of the two. If you want, they can produce a custom pushrod to your exact size for an extra fee He also said that hydraulic lifters are very forgiving. They have a check valve and fill with oil, so they compensate any mistakes people make on the preload/pushrod size. He explained that lifter preload, is the distance the spring-loaded plunger in the lifter travels down. He confirmed what I was talking about in my post with photos. He said getting to 0 lash with moving the pushrod is different for everyone. Some move it with more force some with less, thus the lifter compensates the preload they set. He did confirm the lifters should not be filled with oil when setting preload.

I just ordered a set of their 6.300" TFS pushrods and I should be on my way.

Mustang5L5 said:

I'm in the $10-15K range. ANy idea on approx mileage?

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It's close to 140k I think. Thanks

Could be. I am hoping heat will work. Can't get back on it until tomorrow.

Sounds like this got used:

I have urethane engine mounts, urethane transmission mount, and urethane transmission crossmember mounts and have little to no NVH in either of my cars. If it's done right i.e. balanced and aligned then you can run motor plates and drive it on the street and not have much vibration.

You have it good

I have used a razor and cut all of the black rtv on the front behind the distributor and it will NOT budge. I see a yellowish substance on the heads where the intake meets on the sides, and I can see RTV was used there also. I just dont want to break then ntake or the block. I also want to find the guy who installed the intake and kick him in the nuts.

Even if the CEL (check engine light) is not on there can be codes. This is due to only emissions related codes setting the CEL. I would pull codes first then go from there.

What do you see sealant / gasket wise between front of the block and the intake? This would be right behind the distributor. I use clear silicone on the front and back of the intake and they pop right off. It almost sounds like someone used the yellow tacky stuff on both sides of the cylinder head to intake manifold gaskets. I have seen this on a couple of cars but they only use a couple of dots to keep the gaskets located correctly especially on port / port matched combos.

Welcome to the forum !

That 93 GT will bring g you lots of fun. I always run modest front tire sizes but I don't track my car.

Go to veryuseful.com and check out the schematic. I would post a link or pic but internet sucks here.

Yeah, the wiring in your car may be "hold my beer" moment or two.

Zero difference.

Intake air temperature sensor. Seems like it may be your issue....or the coolant temperature sensor. Not the one that looks like a little stud but either the one in the coolant bypass pipe or the one that screws in the intake under the upper intake on drivers side. If the sensors are disconnected or not working it will make the computer think the car is still cold.

Nova is finally gone. Garage is back to all Fords. Scarlet Rose is next on the list. Dusty has been hanging out. Occasionally, making turbo noises and zooming through the area. Stopped the garage project for other projects around the house. Building the Ol' Lady a screened in porch. Grading the yard and doin' stuff.

Happy wife....happy life !!!

Hey man, its been a while. If it were me I'd just loosen the ball joint castle nut and pop them loose by tapping with a hammer on the spindle. Don't take them all the way off but pop those ball joints loose first. Removing the calipers and hanging them to the side is a must. Don't want to damage the brake hoses. Next would be loosening the tie rod arm at the nut on the arm and turn the inner tie rod to make sure the outter tie rod will unthread. They are a pain to get loose if the tie rod end is out of the spindle. The process from there; remove outter tie rod end, remove the strut bolts ( with jack stands under car and jack under control arm ). Lower the arm and spindle. Pry out spring, remove lower arm, remove strut top nut, remove factory camber plate, install new camper plates, strut, new control arm, new spring, jack up with lower arm, install spindle, install strut bolts, install bump steer kit, reinstall caliper. Leave control arm mounting bolts slightly loose like 5L5 stated.

The bump steer kit takes a bit to adjust properly. If you haven't already checked it out there is a way to make a bump steer gauge on YT. You want the tie rod to be inline with the center of the lower arm bolts and through the ball joint cup.

Wow...that was a long post. Glad to see your update. Kids take so much time. It's all worth it though.

General karthief said:

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Yeah, I gave up too....

Dontknowchit said:

I got the surging all fixed up, timing, idle adjustment tps and a vacuum leak. At start up/warm up it idles up higher than I think it needs(2k rpm) but settles down and runs good. Every once in a while, for lack of a better word, it coughs. It kind of cuts out, there is a huge sucking nose from the intake, then it just keeps going. It's very quick. It has done it under idle, under power, after warmup and after startup. Not often, mabe once a trip and not every start/run cycle. I thought the high idle warmup and the cough and the desire for it to idle high (1krpm) at proper timing anyway may be symptoms of a chip/tune. I took a look and I have a sealed A9P ECC. I read a lot of posts and I think my take away was that it does not matter much, but
....would a A9L have a lower idle warmup (add less timing)?
Would a mild cam cause a high idle? It's a big unknown as the motor is a 95 block that was rebuilt and transplanted but I got it from the second owner since then so information is sparse. Trying to Sherlock my way thru it.

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Try a base idle reset.

So say by process of elimination, stock pushrods are 6.25 right, next one up in size I can buy is only 6.3 right? So no matter what I measure, there isn't a size available in between the 6.25 and 6.3, so the winning size is 6.3?