Engine Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

Sounds like you have the big three and it should start
Do a fuel quality test and make sure the gas is volatile as hell and will blow up a BBQ if used as lighter fluid
Did that checklist have a noid light test
I would perform that noid test on more than one injector
I would also manually fire a few injectors to verify the fuel pressure drops as I did so
Playing with my buddies MSD the other day on his 69 Camaro, I showed him how to rough time one
Set your motor to 10 BTDC on the crank, turn the key on and rotste the distributor back and forth making it spark a few times
Determine where you think the spark occurred and lock the distributor down right there
Maybe try that
We all have checklists, one of mine is a good visual inspection
Looks like yours has never ran before? it is so clean reddy351?
You get 2 spark testers on the car for the next try, one at a plug and one on the coil wire

351 Cleveland swapped MII

If I can rotate the steering rack towards the firewall. This changes the shaft angle just enough to clear the header. I tested this theory and works perfectly. I’m just not sure of the practicality of this option in actual practice.

Another option would be if there is a steering rack that has the shaft in a slightly different location. One inch farther towards the drivers side would do it. Or if there is a rack that the shaft comes out at a different angle. Slightly more down or slightly more towards drivers side would clear.

The irony to this is, me moving the engine 1 1/4” towards the drivers side to center it, created this problem. So here we are. Things are snowballing quickly.
Exhaust is a big problem on this cars... even with a 302 over axle pipes in 2.5 inch are barley possible.

Anyway, here some thoughts:
I installed a fox steering rack (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=30774&cc=1140297&jsn=10552) and it looks to me, that the steering shaft is much shorter than yours. I also used a borgeson u-joint with a double DD end and a splined end that fits the fox steering rack. I than cut and grind the OEM steering shaft down to the double DD. The Fox steering rack is much lighter (alu housing) and has a quick ratio, which feels great with a low pressure pump (around 70-75 bar). I will post some pictures if i find them in short time in my build thread.
Beside that: could you move the engine back this 1 1/4'' regarding passenger side exhaust clearance?!

351 Cleveland swapped MII

If I can rotate the steering rack towards the firewall. This changes the shaft angle just enough to clear the header. I tested this theory and works perfectly. I’m just not sure of the practicality of this option in actual practice.

Another option would be if there is a steering rack that has the shaft in a slightly different location. One inch farther towards the drivers side would do it. Or if there is a rack that the shaft comes out at a different angle. Slightly more down or slightly more towards drivers side would clear.

The irony to this is, me moving the engine 1 1/4” towards the drivers side to center it, created this problem. So here we are. Things are snowballing quickly.

351 Cleveland swapped MII

Yes. I only have to remove the oil filter to install the drivers side. Nothing for passengers side.

But I do still have one hurdle to overcome.
The steering shaft interferes with the drivers side. I am trying to come up with a solution.

As you can see in the below photo. I have about an inch of interference. I hope someone on here may have a suggestion.
IMG_1440.jpeg

Fuel Fuel line routing question..

It will not let me into the forum... I get a strange format of everything on the left side of the page in blue lettering...??

Does this link work for ya?



Also, check your messages.

Fox Sticky throttle

Solved!
Well at least I know the issue. The idle screw was not making contact with the stop tab on the TB. As I rotated the screw in, it got very very tight, then "twang/snap" and it was easy to turn again. The TB spring has some sort of "catch" on it if allowed to rotate too far back, or snap back hard without being controlled by the stop tab and screw it kind of over rotates and binds when coming off that position. Feels just like the throttle blade is stuck when manipulating by hand but it is definitely the spring. After opening it all the way and letting it snap back at full speed about 1500 times, I think I found the sweetspot for having it backed out but still stopping it before the spring gets bound up on itself. I guess it has to have a little preload on the spring to take the slack out of it before it actually opens the blade. I'm sure my idle will be higher now, but have to check tomorrow as too late and loud to mess with it more tonight.

But what is this thing? This greasy stamped metal disc was wedged behind the throttle pedal bar. Does it serve a purpose?

Sub frame connectors

I haven't used the Stifflers subframe connectors on a Fox Body Convertible, so I don't have personal experience with the brace modifications. The modifications are detailed in the instructions. Here's the PDF:


The modifications appear to be straightforward, but they will add time (and cost) to the installation.
I’m sure he’ll know what to do. He recommended putting them on and they do a lot of work with mustangs. Thanks for your help

Sub frame connectors

I saw those on summit racings site but they didn’t have them in stock. I will get these. What does brace modification mean? Will my mechanic have a problem installing them
I haven't used the Stifflers subframe connectors on a Fox Body Convertible, so I don't have personal experience with the brace modifications. The modifications are detailed in the instructions. Here's the PDF:


The modifications appear to be straightforward, but they will add time (and cost) to the installation.

‘89 LX 5.0 convertible mods

Hey, my mechanic just told me the same thing you did as far as first thing to do to stiffen up the ride of my car. Also suggested flowmaster 40 series. He directed me to summit racing to get the connectors. Is this all I need? Or do you have ones you recommend? Thanks
Maximum Motorsports subframe connectors seem to be the most popular here on the forum.

Regarding the Flowmaster 40s, they have a tendency to drone when driving at highway speeds. Maybe it doesn’t make a lot of difference in a convertible, but you might want to spend a little time researching your choices.

Bill

Sub frame connectors

You'll be better off using subframe connectors that have a crossbar that bolts under the seat. I use Stifflers subframe connectors (and their FIT System) on my 2000 GT convertible autocross car. I've been very impressed with the quality of every Stifflers part I've purchased. The Stifflers subframe connectors are also much less expensive. See the link below. Make sure to read the note about 1983-1993 Convertible models needing "brace modification."

I saw those on summit racings site but they didn’t have them in stock. I will get these. What does brace modification mean? Will my mechanic have a problem installing them
What an awesome community!

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