Mounted the oil catch can. Text drive complete and no more spewing oil.

Decided to go with the larger 12 AN fitting equipped Catch Can as I figured the larger fitting would aid in greater breathing. The limiting factor though is really the rubber tubing running from the PCV port to the catch can.

So, in the rear (traditional PCV) port area I added the missing screen, the rubber grommet, a 1/2" to 3/8" brass fitting spray painted black to blend in and then tubing to the catch can. On the passenger's side valve cover I did the same 1/2" to 3/8" brass fitting, rubber grommet to tubing to the other side of oil catch can. 14 AN fittings complete the securing of the rubber tubing and had to be purchased separately as the catch can did not come with them.

The problem I ran into was that I had to utilize a socket to screw in the brass fitting as it was so tight against the rubber grommet and PCV port(s).

I also used Rock Auto to purchase the screen as everywhere else was outrageously expensive. The Moroso Catch Can was purchased from Summit, and the brass fittings from my local hardware store.

AeroCoupe said:

Sounds like you better check the wiring to the fuel pump in the trunk/hatch of the car. Start at the inertia switch mounted directly behind the driver side rear tail light assembly (behind the truck trim panel or plastic trim panel in the hatch). My guess is someone attempted to do some “custom” wiring.

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Spot on! Well, almost. I went right to the inertia switch, and although not spliced into the factory wiring, I found two lone wires. Looked like they went to the pump, so I snipped 'em. Boom. Pump shut off, as it should. Replaced the factory relay harness found under the driver's seat, and now the pump primes instead of running continuously, and everything seems to be working as it should. I wonder why this guy didn't just repair the factory harness... I guess time will tell

Here's where I'm currently at. The comp cam 6.300 pushrod arrived. It actually measures 6.320". The original pushrods that were in the engine measure 6.240" and the long one I bought from local autozone is 6.395"

Currently, I"m fighting 2 things at the same time-- finding the right pushrod length and getting the lifter preload correct. If I understand it right, both are related-- if the pushrod is the right length, the preload will be at the correct torque within a 1/4-1 revolution of the torque wrench between like 18-22 ft lbs.

The lifters have no oil in them. Just the spring as they came from the factory. Rockers are OEM stamped rockers.

With cylinder number 1, both intake and exhaust valves closed and the lifters at their bottom, I tried different pushrods again. One thing that is still subjective is 0 lash. Some say move the rod up/down and tighten rocker until it stops moving, that's zero lash. Some say tighten until the pushrod stops spinning.

What I discovered is, since I have my lower intake off, I can see the lifters. In fact, since they don't have the oil, I can easily press on them and see the spring within them move up and down. So, to get to 0 lash, I just tighten the rocker until I can see the lifter cup that holds the pushrod go down. Once it goes, I bring it back to the top-- which is zero lash, correct?

Given the above way of finding zero lash, with OEM pushrod at torque, I can still move the rod up/down-- so that one is out.

With the long one from autozone, the 6.395", it takes me like 2 revolutions of the torque wrench to get to 19 ft lbs, so that one is out.

With the Comp Cam one, I seem to be reaching 19 ft lbs consistently at about 3/4 turn. I've tried it on 3 cylinders, on both intake and exhaust on each one. 3/4 turns is within spec, so I should be good ordering those pushrods, correct?

Here's how the lifter looks at 0 lash:


Here's how it looks after 3/4 turn preload of 19 ft lbs:


Sorry, it's late and those are the best photos my phone would take.

Thoughts on getting to zero lash with my method? Seems more repeatable then feeling the pushrod.

Noobz347 said:

Somebody should drop that dude a line and have him make an account and post here:

Services - Tuning, Welding, Mechanic, Body Work...

Personal Services Provided / Help Wanted

stangnet.com

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Yes and ditch that annoying piano playing in the background.

Damn straight, You never want poly mounts unless you are going racing and not worried about vibration
Used to run solid (steel) mounts in an old 69 Camaro. Could hardly drive the car on the street

@

AeroCoupe: I think you may be right and removing nuts holding tranny down is probably indication of misalignment​

I had a person that works on mustangs with t5 tranny come by and check it out. He took two nuts holding the poly transmission mounts off and vibration reduced considerably . He is going to get a 67 mustang rubber mount from O'Reilly($14) and install. He doesn't like poly mounts says too hard. I'll let you know if that takes care of vibration

2000xp8 said:

Start with the basics, did you try and jump start it?
Battery voltage?
Did you check to see if all connections from the solenoid, battery and starter are good?

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gonna try those first, just wanted to narrow it down hence I made the post

Could that something that kicks on be an electric fan or is it still stock fan?

Mustang5L5 said:

There aren't really many options. Edelbrock is the only new one, or get the use TFS. Gain top end HP at the cost of low end torque. Slap some 4.10's or even 4.30's to compensate.

The OE Ford Racing is gone, so only other option would be a used PPI OE style intake.

On top, I've constantly seen Accu-Fab touted as one of the better Plenum and TB setups to run.



The Kenne Belle would be another good "intake" option

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How much low end will I lose with the Edelbrock? I have the accu fan TB and plenum it’s a 70mm.

Start with the basics, did you try and jump start it?
Battery voltage?
Did you check to see if all connections from the solenoid, battery and starter are good?

Base idle reset.
Post #14

After everything you’ve been through, I think you can tighten the connector. You got this!!!