Electrical I smell hot wires

[limp]

So while working on my 83, trying to get my gas tank sending unit to work, I smelled burnt wires coming from behind my dash..
No smoke, and just enough smell that I wasn't sure.. Ignition switch off and on a few times and yeah somethings happening..
Only happens when the ignition switch is on. While feeling around for any hot wires, the bundle coming from the ignition switch was pretty warm

I have seen the ignition switch stories pop up here, seems as someone said my 83 is before the " problem " ones??
Unplugged the loom from the switch and I could not see any burnt connectors...
I am going to remove the dash and try to spread apart the wires in the ignition loom and see if I can trace it down to any specific wire.. by smell or heat if I don't see anything obvious...

Can't say for sure, but my fuel gauge dropped to empty ( I was working the float by hand) when I first smelled the burning and I spent a little time on it and I was getting nowhere..

Any direction here from you guru's?

 

[General karthief]

Did you have the dash out before?

 

[limp]

Did you have the dash out before?

Yes all of it.

 

[limp]

Be it that the bundle of wires from/to the ignition switch was hot, would that make my ignition switch a likely suspect??
My understanding is the replacements are not very good?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Be it that the bundle of wires from/to the ignition switch was hot, would that make my ignition switch a likely suspect??
My understanding is the replacements are not very good?

Ignition switch is a likely suspect. They tend to separate which leads to a loose connection inside and increased draw which causes them to melt. There was a recall on these in the late 80's.

What's the part number on your ignition switch? These are the recalled units

Safety Recall 95S28 - Ignition Switch Replacement

From the document:

Parts Purge
All of the ignition switches listed below are to be withdrawn from your inventory and immediately returned, freight prepaid using the least expensive transportation, to your facing PDC within 30 days:

E4UZ-11572-A (SW 1916)
E4TZ-11572-A (SW 1562A)
E6FZ-11572-A (SW 1744B)
E7TZ-11572-A (SW 2101)
F0LY-11572-A (SW 2219)
F2TZ-11572-A (SW 2300)

 

[limp]

Ignition switch is a likely suspect. They tend to separate which leads to a loose connection inside and increased draw which causes them to melt. There was a recall on these in the late 80's.

What's the part number on your ignition switch? These are the recalled units

Thanks.. I will check it...

 

[limp]

Ignition switch is a likely suspect. They tend to separate which leads to a loose connection inside and increased draw which causes them to melt. There was a recall on these in the late 80's.

What's the part number on your ignition switch? These are the recalled units

Close but no cigar.. Mine says E2AC-11572 AA

 

[limp]

Hate throwing parts at problems, but thinking about replacing my ignition switch before I take out my dash panel or go further...
Are some better than others?
Prices range from $13 to $43... Wells is the most expensive, anyone used a Wells?
Found a motorcraft, but the pic doesn't look any different than the $13...
Forgot the brand but it has what looks like a heavier metal body, dark in color.... $23?

 

[limp]

Anyone know how these come off.. Are they bolts I can turn out with pliers or vice grips? Or do I need to grind them off..
Cant find anything older than 87's about this on my computer searches and all they have are inverted torx..
As always, TY...

 

[AeroCoupe]

I used vise grips when I removed mine. Then went to the local hardware store (that is how long ago I did it) and just put regular bolts back in. Those are tamper proof bolts that the head snaps off of them when you torque them up.

 

[limp]

I used vise grips when I removed mine. Then went to the local hardware store (that is how long ago I did it) and just put regular bolts back in. Those are tamper proof bolts that the head snaps off of them when you torque them up.

Thanks.... We have a little local hardware store in my town still.... Nice people, OLD guys work there who know what they are talking about unlike whats happening at the big box stores... I give them all the business I can.....
Appreciate the help

OH yeah, they also have beef jerky treats for Bentley....

 

[Mustang5L5]

Hate throwing parts at problems, but thinking about replacing my ignition switch before I take out my dash panel or go further...
Are some better than others?
Prices range from $13 to $43... Wells is the most expensive, anyone used a Wells?
Found a motorcraft, but the pic doesn't look any different than the $13...
Forgot the brand but it has what looks like a heavier metal body, dark in color.... $23?

If it was me I’d throw a Motorcraft one on. However their quality has gone downhill too.

 

[limp]

If it was me I’d throw a Motorcraft one on. However their quality has gone downhill too.

I thought I would pick a switch up locally so I can satisfy my curiosity if this will fix it...
Found this Motorcraft locally.... If I knew for sure it was American made Good stuff, I might buy it..
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...car-1983-ford-mustang?q=ignition+switch&pos=2

 

[Mustang5L5]

Rockauto has them for $22. There usually a 5% code kicking around.

 

[limp]

Think they are the same part?? Could one be made in China and the other in Mexico.....

 

[Mustang5L5]

I always buy from RA. Have yet to get anything i would consider counterfeit

 

[AeroCoupe]

All the Motorcraft parts I have bought from OReillys have been legit.

 

[limp]

I always buy from RA. Have yet to get anything i would consider counterfeit

So have I , what I have seen are parts built from different facilities that are not comparable.....

 

[General karthief]

It should say on the box, the O'Reilly ad does not state.

 

[limp]

All the Motorcraft parts I have bought from OReillys have been legit.

Did you see the OReilly price? $75.. Triple what the RA is....
I have seen this before from suppliers where one is USA made and the less expensive is from overseas....