No harm in swapping the firing order but the EEC will have hell as it’s expecting an HO firing order with the injection and spark.
I have about 120 psi of compression on each cylinder. Rings are not seated so I don’t think I should have the normal 160 psi.If you installed the cam 180 degrees out when you put the chain on, you will have no compression.
It happens
Well, I don’t know what to tell you. Because it doesn’t start. I’ve had the distributor all over. I’ve seen it well within the timing that you referenced and it doesn’t start. I try to not turn it over too much to avoid flooding and washing down the cylinders with fuel.And younhave eyes on, the distributor is turning with the engine? If you have 120 psi compression, and a spark somewhere between 24 degrees before or after TDC, the starting fluid will ignite (it doesn’t burn).
Try this, take out spark plug #1, spray a generous amount of starter fluid, quickly reinstall and try starting it. If it doesn’t fire, and you still have 120 psi, the ignition timing isn’t even close; it can’t be.
I mean I’ve moved it all over. Not that the timing is all over the place.The distributor all over is a problem
Rough time it once right and be done with that part
I got a feeling your spark is either intermittent or timed wrong
You should have backfire or run if the big 3 is there
Ok, I guess I’m confused. Did the car run ever? Is it starting still or what changed from your first message to now? I mean, what did you change that might have caused the bow, current, won’t even backfire, trying to start? I think if we know what it did before this post, it might help. Since we’re grasping at straws . . .Finally got the 5.0 swap up and running. Sort of. It will start and run but I need to "work" the throttle to get it to stay running. Pulled the codes, first one out of the box is #22. BAP out of range. (The others are clutch switch and some EGR codes.) The BAP that was the one in the car from before. (E6EF-12A644-A1A) I have since purchased a proper E7EF-12A644-A1A sensor and still get the same 22 code. Even after having the battery disconnected for several hours. Do I still not have the correct calibration BAP? (It calls for a E7EF-12A644-A2A sensor. It looks like they do interchange but I'm still getting the code.)
Didn’t read the whole thread?Ok, I guess I’m confused. Did the car run ever? Is it starting still or what changed from your first message to now? I mean, what did you change that might have caused the bow, current, won’t even backfire, trying to start? I think if we know what it did before this post, it might help. Since we’re grasping at straws . . .
That's not why you go 'old school'.That's why you go old school. I'm using the original V6 body harness and computer. I'm powering my hei distributor and signal for fuel pump through it. I bought a cooling fan kit to wire up.
This build took some work including swapping out the subframe. As you know a '97 never came with a 5.0L.
If I was you I would check for power at different places. Does your fuel pump come on? How much fuel pressure do you have? Are you getting power at distributor? You have all your grounds hooked up? Many sensors us a common ground.
I’m trying really hard to not kill this thing before I even get to take it around the block.The bad part is this is a new engine and there is a real danger of 'cylinder wash'.
Have you checked to make sure the pins in the painless harness are correct? By this I mean that the harness is wired into the EEC connector properly.
At this point it’s either a wiring problem hence the need to verify the pinout on the Painless harness is the same as what the EEC-IV is expecting.
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds:
Or you have a timing issue either in the camshaft or distributor. The exhaust stroke and the compression stroke will both blow air out of the spark plug hole. 100% verification is watching the #1 intake rocker arm come up and then fall all the way down. This is when the piston is at or near TDC on the compression stroke.
This is when you can confirm if the balancer is good as it should read 0 on the pointer at true TDC.
I only have one spark tester. It produces produces pulsed spark, as it should. Plugs are getting spark. I have to figure out a way to verify the sparks are happening when they're supposed to without killing the cylinder walls.If it runs for a few seconds? The wiring is most likely correct
I think you are missing something like spark or possibly fuel pressure after the initial start
For the next start attempt, have 2 spark testers on the car and a fuel pressure gauge
I got a sneaky feeling the stator in your distributor if failing or the TFI module is no good, even if replaced
Use the two spark testers