Posts

FastDriver · 2024-05-19T07:15:36-0500

limp said:
The few mexican blocks that I see pop up have been ridiculously priced....

Yeah, I'm kinda thinkin' an 'early' block is most probable. But... People with A4s, R302s, and Boss's almost always know what they have. Mexican blocks can still slip through the cracks if you know how to spot 'em. So, good to know what to look for.

Honestly, I don't by the 'nickel content' theory. I would hold them with the exact same category as the early blocks until I see evidence otherwise.

FastDriver · 2024-05-19T06:47:35-0500

Awesome. I've really put off the Quarterhorse install on Black Jack. Inspire me! Actually, now that I have a wideband and can see what it's doing, I've been so damned impressed with just how spot-on the AFR is at idle, part throttle, and WOT, just from the "calibrated' Pro-M MAF, that the Quarterhorse install became a lower priority than other concerns.

Have you actually measured your AFR? You might find out like I did that there's not as much room for improvement as you think. I still want to do the install & start tuning to clean up idle, hopefully learn to reduce surge, maybe pull a little timing at part throttle, and to learn the ford computer, but it's not gonna be a night-day difference for Black Jack.

FastDriver · 2024-05-19T03:34:06-0500

Did you disconnect the spout when you set timing, and what did you set base timing to?

deserthoundLX · 2024-05-19T00:52:36-0500

AeroCoupe said:
Run the engine and spray (in moderation) carburetor cleaner around the lower intake and see if the rpms pick up. If so you have a leak.

Tried earlier today, no change in idle from anywhere i sprayed. really stumped with this one haha

Methodical · 2024-05-18T23:58:00-0500

WhiteCobra95 said:
When I bought my Cobra, everything was original factory, including the trans fluid. The T5 shifted okay, but it was unpleasantly notchy and didn't like finding first at a stop light when hot. When I tore it open to replace the 8-tooth speedometer drive gear with a 7-tooth gear for more ring and pinion choice options, I refilled it with Royal Purple MT fluid on a recommendation from a friend who uses it with heavy machinery transmissions. I also contacted Royal Purple directly to ask them if I should use their ATF or MT fluid for a T5. They said to use the MT fluid and that it already had friction modifier in it, so I didn't have to add any like you do for the factory recommended ATF. This was the first time I've used Royal purple for anything and I was skeptical, especially at the $17 / quart price tag at the time (it's probably way more expensive now). However, I was blown away by the difference. It's very noticeable. It feels so much smoother after switching. It's notchy, but in the good smooth notchy way you want from a muscle car manual transmission, and the resistance to find first gear when hot has completely gone away. I never would have believed that the fluid choice could make such a difference, but it does. Maybe my factory fluid was just old and warn out, but the improvement in shift quality / feel is completely worht the extra $$ in my experience.

The issue could have been that the fluid in the car when purchased was old and never changed and any new fluid would make it seem better.

AeroCoupe · 2024-05-18T22:00:24-0500

Two things I do. First is angle the drill bit and it will cut the head of the rivet as it spins. Second is a small set of vise grips to hold the rivet head while it’s drilled.

limp · 2024-05-18T20:05:21-0500

Bullitt347 said:
My Generac generator runs on Propane.
No worries about fuel related problems.

I did not have a first born to sell to get a generac.....

Praetorious · 2024-05-18T19:23:35-0500

Meant to say use artic paste on the heat sink on the distributor that mates to the TFI module,NOT on the contacts.

2000xp8 · 2024-05-18T19:19:39-0500

T

Mustang5L5 said:
I like that a lot. Link?

Wish it didn’t have the logo though

SHIFT KNOBS

Custom Leather/Alcantara wrapped full billet aluminum custom racing shift knobs. Volkswagen Audi Porsche BMW MINI Audi R8 fitments available.

blackforestindustries.com

Search universal. Took me a while to figure it out. The logo isn't optimal, but you may not find another shift knob like it.

91GTstroked · 2024-05-18T19:18:25-0500

AeroCoupe said:
Was the car like this before you swapped the dampers?

I believe so. I never looked very close. But looking at old pictures it looks lower on rear driver's side.

Andresquintana.mma · 2024-05-18T18:49:13-0500

Yup looks like I got them on backwards. Tried to install the sway bar and it wouldn’t reach. The lca were a pain to put in haha oh well

Noobz347 · 2024-05-18T17:44:20-0500

Just for reference:

Kenne Bell Installation Manual

Creomod · 2024-05-18T17:14:46-0500

limp said:
What about disconnecting all of the items tied into that fuse, one at a time, until the fuse doesn't blow?

Sometimes it doesn’t blow right away it does it sometime while I’m driving it

Mustang5L5 · 2024-05-18T15:36:42-0500

Under the dash above where the clutch pedal would be. Should have a white 7-pin plug into it.

Mr.Kelley · 2024-05-18T13:38:38-0500

Bad solenoid. I am getting 5-9 volts on the "I" terminal at the starter solenoid while cranking.

horse sence · 2024-05-18T13:33:58-0500

The toe board is in ,i just need to finish welding .
I was hoping to finish without needing to refill my welding tank ,i dont have much left to weld ,what do you think ,will i make it ?

mattcrp1 · 2024-05-18T12:39:02-0500

Polished crank, standard rod and mains. Super seal moly rings. New cam bearings and freeze plugs

Dan_Fish_Pro · 2024-05-18T11:39:52-0500

I'll call MDL again

Noobz347 · 2024-05-18T11:38:38-0500

DeathProof88 said:
I went down to finish up the job this morning, I left the parking brake cables for last thinking it would be a 10 minute job. It seems like I have to cut a notch in the moan brackets now so the cables can fit.. is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong here? I needed to pull some slack out so they would reach, they reach the hole but can't go in because they hit the brackets.

From another thread:

Shaolin Crane said:
E brake cables, there is a possibility that you can re use your factory e brake cables by relocating the brackets so they dont make contact with the wheels, what i did was buy some steel zip ties and attach the brake cable to the calipers and zip tie the loose part of the cable to the lower control arms, then relocate the bracket by drilling 2 holes one for the screw and one for the retaining fold (you'll see what i mean when you get down there) if you go this route you do not need to modify your e brake cable, now this isnt guaranteed to work(worked on my 88 but not my 87)

Habu135 · 2024-05-18T11:36:29-0500

Plasti Dipped my bare oil dip stick to reflect one more OEM. $19 through Amazon. Small details matter.

CassieL · 2024-05-18T09:56:16-0500

Advertised 215 net hp with a truck roller cam,
Gt40 heads and intake. My bronco has a mustang roller cam, GT40 heads and explorer intake.

AeroCoupe · 2024-05-18T08:27:14-0500

Looks like a good place to me. I ended up installing mine where the stoke air box would be as I have an inner fender cold air kit.

CassieL · 2024-05-18T08:23:15-0500

Just to add to this. The 94-95 mustang has more diagnostic capabilities. You can hook up a scanner and get live data and run special tests.
Older snap on scanners can be found on eBay.
Also a tfi module that is breaking up can cause a surge or stumble.
Below is a pic from my scope showing a module that's cutting out. Green trace is the pip, yellow is the coil trigger from the module.

Potomus Pete · 2024-05-18T08:00:37-0500

Just went through this thread. Nice job painting the underside along with everything else.

67fox · 2024-05-18T07:57:09-0500

that is part of my issue as well, im not totally confident that i have all the correct bolts as it is. i guess i just gotta do the legwork on it. thought i could cheat by going to the forums hahaha

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