I Need Of Help

Stravus

New Member
Nov 2, 2015
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I have a 95 Mustang Gt with no mods. The car will start and run but after it runs awhile you shut it off and it will not restart. It acts like a bad battery or alternator. The battery and alt have both been replaced and double checked. The starter has been replaced and taken off and replaced again. The distributor has been replaced. I thought the starter might have been getting heat saturated. Then I read about the distributor so said what the hell and swapped it. Now I am lost and dont know where to go next.
 
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You need to describe each symptom and leave out the part that "it's like".

When you say that it's like a dead battery, does EVERYTHING go dark? Does the solenoid click?

If it drives until you shut it off then it's not an alternator. Is the battery charging? What is the voltage at the battery when you shut it down?

When the starter does turn over, is it healthy or is it struggling?

Does it crank but not start or does it not even crank when this happens?
 
The battery is draining while it is running I have drove it hours at a time with all the accessories on and no problem. You can even unhook the battery and it does not die. So i have ruled out the alt. The battery that is on it has been replaced twice, I got the parts store to replace it even though it tested good. After 15 mins of the car running with no accessories, the battery is weak and the starter drags but it will start After 30 mins the car will not crank but can be jumped off and after sitting for approximately an hour or 2 it will start. After running for 45 mins it will not restart and you must charge the battery to get it to restart.
 
Ok.... First... Never disconnect your car battery with the engine running. Without the battery to function as a buffer you can spike and destroy your EEC in a millisecond.

By your description, it appears that your alternator is working (at least while the motor is running) and the battery is charging (even if slowly).

You should remove, clean, and reinstall all of your motor and chassis ground wires and cable. It's probably worth your time to add a couple more but strategically. Do go tossing wire all over the place without a plan.

Where are you getting these alternators from? Have they been tested? More specifically, has the one that is currently installed been tested?

A bad diode (common with El Cheapo replacement parts) will cause the symptoms that you describe.
 
I'm sorry but you're not making any sense. Noobz you must be some form of psychic.

"The battery is draining while it is running. I have drove it hours at a time with all accessories and no problem." Is the battery draining or not draining?
"After 15 mins of the car running with no accessories, the battery is weak and the starter drags." This directly conflicts with what you wrote above.
"After 30 minutes the car will not crank but can be jumped. After sitting an hour or 2 it will start." After 30 minutes of what? An hour or two of what? Charging? Just sitting there?

Above, you say it is draining. Then it's no problem. Then after 15 minutes the battery gets weak. Then after 30 minutes the car won't crank. Then after two hours the battery is just fine.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but I think your analytical skills or your use of the English language is making this hard to understand. And if we can't understand we can't help. I don't often say this, but you might just want to take your car to a qualified mechanic because throwing parts at it is a waste of time and money. Above you're now re-wiring the car, you're considering replacing the ECU, before you're done you'll be rebuilding the engine.
 
"The battery is draining while it is running. I have drove it hours at a time with all accessories and no problem." Is the battery draining or not draining?

My meaning was no problems while the car is running and it was an answer to "If it drives until you shut it off then it's not an alternator."

Obviously the battery is draining and the sentences after that is telling at what rate because I have not had the chance to check the voltage.
 
This is why I say to answer with just the specific symptoms and not the descriptions.
Could it be and ecu problem


Have you pulled codes? What are they? No codes? No EEC problem.

An alternator will charge with a bad diode in the regulator. It will work as advertized in every way an alternator should except for one.

With the motor off and an alternator with a bad diode, the battery tries to run the alternator like a motor. This causes battery drain. What this generally DOES NOT cause is a slow,warm starter. Generally those issues are:

A tired starter
Bad ground wires
Weak battery

What causes a weak battery? Age, environment, damage, and/or inadequate charging.

So.... Let's start eliminating possibilities.

Your battery you say is new.
Your alternator is new and has RECENTLY been checked on machine SPECIFICALLY designed to check alternators and by a qualified technician. In other words: Don't tell me you went to Pep Boys and watched the fat kid with the chili dog stains on his shirt, hook some wires to your car and shake his head while pressing buttons. I don't consider him technically qualified because he's Pep Boys employee.

In the meantime, you can begin removing those pesky 20+ year old ground wires to clean them up, inspect them, and replace as necessary.
 
It was checked at a local mech shop and actually what is where it is atm. I figured it was a ground short but was told by the mechanic that it could not be that. Basically this whole post was really about helping me decide whether to pull it from that shop and take it to another.

Luckily I put the alt, battery, and starter on it. They just double checked them to eliminate them.
 
It was checked at a local mech shop and actually what is where it is atm. I figured it was a ground short but was told by the mechanic that it could not be that. Basically this whole post was really about helping me decide whether to pull it from that shop and take it to another.

Luckily I put the alt, battery, and starter on it. They just double checked them to eliminate them.


Ok... I kind of get what's going on now.


Yes.... If the mechanic is stumped, then you need to go get your car. He's an idiot if he's had it for more than 24 hours and hasn't found the problem. They are just not that complicated. Your mechanic doesn't know how to troubleshoot. Maybe he's Pre-fuel injection, I don't know.
 
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Ok... I kind of get what's going on now.


Yes.... If the mechanic is stumped, then you need to go get your car. He's an idiot if he's had it for more than 24 hours and hasn't found the problem. They are just not that complicated. Your mechanic doesn't know how to troubleshoot. Maybe he's Pre-fuel injection, I don't know.


+1 Agreed... find another mechanic. Also, when posting on forums try to ask 1 question at a time and keep it simple I only say that because it can get very confusing trying to understand the issue at hand.