Nice Sn95. 100k miles. Heirloom. Garage kept. We need some help

[Jacobn4056.]

Hey again folks.
I have a 1995 Ford Mustang GT black convertible. 5.0 all original equipment.
This has always been my favorite car.
I’m not huge on the late model line but this is it! It’s right on my character. I’ll be the one fixing it no matter.
So there are 100 cause’s running through my head and a million patchy advice leads. Some not pertaining to a ford or SN95. Some I’ve read are mechanical problems. So I’m trying to get a good detail for the experts here that could help.
Now thanks to all who have found my posts and had a resemblance to a car of some sort they used to have. Im glad I had the chance to learn and I appreciate your message. It doesn’t help there’s snow on the ground in Alabama and I need it Running!

I’m having an issue that is burning powertrain control module relay. My original relay module blew At an idle while waiting on food. Car didn’t run hot, wasn’t noticeably hotter. The car shut off and was hard to get fired up. The engine pooted very low rpm. Got it home with no power.
The way I remember it I lost battery while turning in or another hiccup that caused the car needing to be cranked again. But had a dead battery. Low crank. Charged it finally got it back. From then on there has been this problem intermittently. It’s not drivable and will fowl plugs while trying to diagnose it. For sure. When the Engine Light is on the car has no power. Also when the light is on the fan comes with the key switch. When not acting up it runs and runs smooth for a little while. I came to the original ccrm and it was burned (#1 picture). Low fan relay looks to be the burned area. Fast forward and I replaced the ccrm thinking that capacitor you see leaked and caused damage. Now I have the same problem off and on. Fine one minute Not fine and check engine light is on the next. Car has never ran hot. Fan on as long as check engine is on. May have heard clicking in the New power train control relay module. I have noticed click with check engine on and off. Light flashes as sudden as click/fan. When car is only switched on with that new ccrm. Before.
I opened new ccrm that I replaced and there is signs of burning or heat here as well. (2nd and 3rd picture)
ECM computer looks to be fine though. (4th picture)

We really need helpful ideas and information for this car.

 

[Chythar]

I would start by checking the computer for codes. The code that lights your check engine light (CEL) should still be stored in the computer when the CEL light goes out. That will give you a starting point for diagnosis. Report back here what codes you got, and you'll be able to get further help.

I will make a completely wild guess and say you will have a 212 code, indicating the PIP in the distributor is failing. When my PIP failed last time, my car acted much the same way. When the PIP fails, the spark plugs won't fire all the time and you can get fouled spark plugs since you're getting fuel but no spark.

But don't worry about replacing your PIP yet - throwing money and parts at a problem will only empty your wallet and make you mad. Check those codes and report back.

 

[Jacobn4056.]

Good deal. Last night I ordered one of the yellow digital OBD readers. So I actually put a new distributor in the car. This distributor came up for the car. But doesn’t look like the oem. This distributor has a plate on it where an Ignition Module would mount. Of course my ignition module is on the wheel well passenger side under air cleaner. So that was a red flag. It fires well but could be all wrong. I also heard there is a crank sensor in the original distributor. I already had ordered what I think is the right one -an oem distributor reman from cardone. Should be here anytime. This car is a convertible so i won’t be aftermarketing it out to race or go any faster that 5.1. But I’ve heard bad stuff about cardone and folks remans not lasting 3 weeks. But found That cardone reman in the same style as original. I guess I’ll See what I get.

 

[Jacobn4056.]

yeah I’ll post back with what it shows. Reader should be here tomorrow. Note the problem didn’t start with the wrong distributor exactly. Could had made it worse
This odd distributor came up on the car.
I think it was cheaper and new

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

The TFI is in the correct place,they made that change for the 94" model.

 

[Jacobn4056.]

Good to know! I still don’t think it’s right for my car. And it doesn’t look so good. But I’m used to the 95 being there
Does anyone know any difference?

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

It's right,they moved it there so it would have less chance of failure. They make the relocation kit for Foxbodys.

 

[Jacobn4056.]

So you’re saying this distributor should operate fine for my car? I don’t think I’ll be relocating it. They moved it away in 95

 

[AeroCoupe]

94/95 Distributor, no TFi mounted to the body but it has a pigtail to connect to the harness which goes to the inner fender mounted TFI:

86-93 Distributor WITH tFI mounted on the body:

You can see that in 1994 Ford removed the TFI on the distributors. The pad on the 94/95 distributor is smaller than the one on the 86-93 and does not have the connections for the spade connections on the TFI chip to plug into the bottom of the distributor just under the cap.

 

[Jacobn4056.]

94/95 Distributor, no TFi mounted to the body but it has a pigtail to connect to the harness which goes to the inner fender mounted TFI:

86-93 Distributor WITH tFI mounted on the body:

You can see that in 1994 Ford removed the TFI on the distributors. The pad on the 94/95 distributor is smaller than the one on the 86-93 and does not have the connections for the spade connections on the TFI chip to plug into the bottom of the distributor just under the cap.

Gotcha. That is the style distributor that was ordered. I believe I have the first one. I have a 95 reman on the way. The distributor now in it is installed with just the round harness.
Did I miss something? That module wouldn’t plug into the distributor it’s self Correct?

 

[Jacobn4056.]

Distributor just doesnt look right to me. To speak of the problem I’m having what would cause this burning in my ccrm? The picture is a replacement ccrm. And 2nd picture is original ccrm.
The original ccrm shows burning pretty well localized to the Low Fan Relay.

 

[FastDriver]

Have you measured voltage while running? Lower volts requires more amps and is much harder on electronics. Something like that could cause several systems to get too hot. This is based on your comment of a dead battery as well as several electrical gremlins, and it would be the result of a bad alternator, battery, grounds, or wiring shorts. Just a thought.

 

[Essn95]

The 94/95 distributors remanned will still have the pad for the TFI, doesn't affect function at all and it will still work. However, if the dizzy is your issue, and you want your car to be reliable. Ditch the parts store one and get a performance distributor and don't look back.

 

[Jacobn4056.]

I just got the car in the carport. A few minutes later the check engine light hit on. Cut it off plugged in my Code reader I bought. Turned it on. Hit test and got no test. Just the 000. I pressed test and got no test from the reader.
Check engine light on. Fan on. Fuel pump on I believe. And now that it’s inside the carport I think i hear the injectors just Squirting. With the engine off. Only with the ignition on.

 

[Jacobn4056.]

Y’all keep in mind this is a good car and these issues are a tragedy for its overall condition. It’s one of the best examples of the generation that I’ve seen.
When it operates normally.
No mechanic Good or Bad has had their hands on this car other than us. There isn’t anything missing. Messed with or even improved.

Just Now turned the key a moment ago and it wasn’t in its condition. It started a test. I heard high and low fan. I think before it was finished a relay clicked and the fan came on by itself. Now there are times when the check engine, fan, and performance “blink” these are brand new relays in the module. you can momentarily feel the engine kick and run better. With engine off and keyed on. And that’s the point where I haven’t been able to get a test to start.

Codes I got are 121 o:
Closed throttle Voltage higher than expected.

10: ?

111:

This isn’t explaining burned ccrm yet.
I’m just not sure if that fan coming on a moment after hi/low test actually halted further codes. Because As I said it will not run a test when check engine is and all these problems are present. It hardly idles. I did double check my steps. And tested to directions of the book.

 

[90sickfox]

That 121 code is common when the idle screw has been turned up. The fan motor could be bad causing a high amp draw when it cuts on. Check the ignition switch. Make sure the wires look OK. A bad contact inside there can cause a bunch of gremlin issues.