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If i dont change my mind by this afternoon!,I think im just going to try the cometics with copper spray,i figure for the cost of the gaskets and the fact that i can take it appart in a few hours,is worth a try.....if it leaks then next step is some serious changes
 
I hate to say it but this all just sounds like trial and error. If it were me, and it WAS me last year, I would want to know the exact reason the head gaskets blew so that I could put together a plan to resolve that issue.

IMO your looking at this too quickly and acting upon it based off hunches. If your not an expert in the field of mechanics and you don't research or find someone to help diagnose then your going to throw so much money at this thing you will give up and sell the very thing you saught after in the first place, a bad ass tire shredding machine that you love to drive.

Just my .02 bro.

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I hate to say it but this all just sounds like trial and error. If it were me, and it WAS me last year, I would want to know the exact reason the head gaskets blew so that I could put together a plan to resolve that issue.

IMO your looking at this too quickly and acting upon it based off hunches. If your not an expert in the field of mechanics and you don't research or find someone to help diagnose then your going to throw so much money at this thing you will give up and sell the very thing you saught after in the first place, a bad ass tire shredding machine that you love to drive.

Just my .02 bro.

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Problem is the head?...block checked out fine??...im sending the head out for measurmeant and resurfacing?...tuner agrees?...not sure what else i can do?
 
I measured head in question with the proper machinest straight edge and its .004 out across the 2 cylinders that blew through,plus the fire ring indents=blow through i would say no?....and thats sitting over the ruff indents from the fire ring of the wrong felpro 1011-1,so its hard to tell exactly,ima let the machinist double check for me....
But as far as i can tell,the block was flat,couldnt get .0015 through in any direction..
 
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As my pic you mean?....did you use any type of gasket spray?


Did you read the article?

The Article said:
But the most interesting aspect of the MLS design isn't the number of layers of steel it uses, but what is done to the two layers on the outside of the gasket. A bead is rolled, or embossed, into the steel that goes around the cylinder bores as well as the water passages and even the oil drain back holes between the block and heads. When the cylinder heads are bolted to the block, the gasket is compressed but the sealing beads aren't crushed flat. It's these beads that provide the seal. And in the event combustion pressure causes the head to lift off the block slightly, the beads are able to spring back a bit so that the seal is maintained between the block and heads.

and

The Same Article said:
In what the old timers called the "good old days," blown head gaskets used to be a real pain in the...well, you pick the body part. Poor machining practices that left the decks of both the heads and the block wavy, subpar bolts that weren't torqued accurately, and old-school head gaskets left a lot to be desired. And that's why all those additional practices popped up to help increase the chances of getting a long-lasting head gasket seal.

I used no gasket spray.

some other site said:
Leaks, Problems, Copper spray?


MLS head gaskets go on dry because they are coated with a sealant. Each MLS head gasket is coated with a .001" thick viton rubber that is bonded to the outer stainless steel layers. Adding an additional sealer can hinder the performance of an MLS head gasket. Typically when people complain about their MLS gasket weeping, either:

  • The surface finish is not up to spec (50 RA or better).

  • They did not have the timing cover bolted to the block when it was resurfaced, or...

  • They did not put a dab of sealant where the timing cover meets the block.

That was from http://www.vacmotorsports.com/articlesDetail.php?recordID=25
 
This is decking heads also...

"Buy the felpro #1133 mls gaskets. they
are more forgiving on crappy surface due to coating. They only come in .041" compressed thickness, but a 4.100" bore opening. I calculated you compression ratio and its at 10.74:1 with the felpro #1133 gasket. That is assuming you machinist didnt "zero deck" the motor, in that case its around 11.3:1. This is all stuff that needs to be known when building a motor for a specific combo. I would recommend measuring the piston to deck hieght to confirm."
 
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That was one option,i checked my piston to deck hight the best i could,used a dial indicator until it stopped moving at top dead,then put the straight edge over the center of the piston,i got .013 up to .017 clearance....going to double check tomoro since it was my first time
 
Me...mill/fix heads first. Second built new shortblock(I know I know). Third run as much boost as I comfortably want to(which would be a lot lol). You could probably have all this done for less than 4K and never worry about the motor again.

Seriously. If it meant for me to spend another 1-2k at this point(for new heads,labor,time,worry), I'd go the above route. You're still going to be in a dilemma with the block if you just fix the topend problem. Now is the time to pull the motor and do it if you're going to. Otherwise it probably will be a matter of time. I wouldn't want to have spent all this time and money to boost it if I couldn't romp on it when I wanted. Just my .02
 
Me...mill/fix heads first. Second built new shortblock(I know I know). Third run as much boost as I comfortably want to(which would be a lot lol). You could probably have all this done for less than 4K and never worry about the motor again.

Seriously. If it meant for me to spend another 1-2k at this point(for new heads,labor,time,worry), I'd go the above route. You're still going to be in a dilemma with the block if you just fix the topend problem. Now is the time to pull the motor and do it if you're going to. Otherwise it probably will be a matter of time. I wouldn't want to have spent all this time and money to boost it if I couldn't romp on it when I wanted. Just my .02
Building a new short block would be the answer in a perfect world,but i just got this motor built a few years ago,hardly any k on it,and i just cant spend more on this car right now.From the begging of this thread,other than my compression,everyone said that i would be fine to run boost if i kept it under 500rwhp?
I know its pushing the limits,but building a new engine is not an option for me,if anything i just put it back to N\A and continue this thread with a fresh build in a Couple years...:(
 
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@TOOLOW91 ,@Onefine88 ,@84Ttop and all....i got up to 10psi with the 347 pulley,should i go straight to the 3.80 pulley?...im hoping i can bring it down to 5-7psi?
I believe (Asp racing???) Correct me if I'm wrong on the name. Will make custom pulleys if needed that way you can get the boost where it's needed.

OR you can pull out timing to reduce power. I believe pulling more timing would be the most economical route. I know as little as 2* can cause a decent power decrease.
 
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@TOOLOW91 ,@Onefine88 ,@84Ttop and all....i got up to 10psi with the 347 pulley,should i go straight to the 3.80 pulley?...im hoping i can bring it down to 5-7psi?
What size is the lower ? Is it an 8 rib setup with the 6.00 lower ?


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