Hey guys, newbie here. Just bought a 1989 LX 5.0 convertible w/AOD tranny. 38k miles, orig owner, garaged and covered since new. Never seen snow or rain. Been driven 700 miles the last 7 years. Great condition. Only mods previous owner did was 3.73 gears and Dynomax exhaust in ‘07. Looking to wake the car up a bit. Can anyone recommend any other mods? Not looking to race it. I’m 55 and just looking to cruise with it. Thanks for your input
‘89 LX 5.0 convertible mods
- Thread starter Moondog2178
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91AOD5.0LX
I have a slight sag in my rear
Welcome to Stangnet.
Post pictures please. We would love to see this gem! Sounds like a Great find!
Post pictures please. We would love to see this gem! Sounds like a Great find!
I wouldn't do a thing. Gears are probably the biggest bang for the buck item for the AOD's. After that you are spending $100-200 per bolt-on for 3HP. If the car is just a cruiser, invest in restoration/maintenance instead.
Subfram connectors will stiffen the car up a bit. They join the front and rear subframe together so you should get less convertible rattles. However with such low miles, that car might still be pretty tight.
Subfram connectors will stiffen the car up a bit. They join the front and rear subframe together so you should get less convertible rattles. However with such low miles, that car might still be pretty tight.
Thanks. Good advice. Yes, I plan on doing that. Not as tight as you would think. I’m getting PDR work on it now so when it comes back I have to get inspected and I’ll have my mechanic check it out. But yes, I want to stiffen the car up. Lot of flexing with a convertible
- Mar 2, 2015
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If I had that car I wouldn't do anything to it. Do you know how rare an unmolested mustang is in good shape. The fact that it doesn't have subframe connectors could mean that the car was never beat on. They do stiffen the car up a lot but have to be welded in or holes drilled to bolt it in. As far as more power....You'd need to do a head cam and intake just to reach the power of new 4 cylinder cars. More power needs more braking...and more suspension than stock. Stock cars are fast outpacing modified cars in value. A car is only original once.
One owner car. Never beat on. Always garaged. Never seen snow. Yea, I don’t think I want to start welding 
. I’m not racing it. I’m 55 and just gonna cruise with it. But I would like to do suspension upgrades without the welding. Thanks for your input
. I’m not racing it. I’m 55 and just gonna cruise with it. But I would like to do suspension upgrades without the welding. Thanks for your input
As someone that's owned a few verts I'll tell ya the best investment would be subframe connectors and a shock tower brace, verts develop 'cowel shake' on RR tracks and other bumps, I don't see them as value killers. These things fold like a loaf of bread.
JMO
JMO
I just got the car fri and still have to get it inspected. I’ll have my mechanic check everything and see if there’s any issues with the suspension
Just because it has low miles doesn't mean the suspension isn't shot. I would inspect the front and rear control arm bushings (including the ones on the rear end for the UCA's) for rot and tearing, inspect the dampers for leaks (including the quad shocks). If you want to keep it close to stock then stop there.
If you want to ride and handle well then you should look at quality dampers like Bilsteins, Koni's, etc. A good set of springs will make all the difference and there are all kinds of opinions out there on those but a quick search with "convertible" in it will weed most of them out. If it were me I would immediately get a set of Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates as they make a noticeable difference in the handling department.
Full length subframe connectors like Mustang5L5 linked will stiffen the car up which also translates into better handling. I run the Global West units on both of my cars as I prefer how the GW units tuck up beside the subframes versus mounting underneath them. My cars are low so I like the added ground clearance. Strut tower brace and k-member brace would be good ones to get as well.
Brakes are subjective in that if you want to keep the four lug then I would suggest you just change pad compounds up front and if you are okay with it move to disc brakes in the rear as they look better and they do offer a slight performance advantage over the drum brakes. If you want to move to five lug go here as Mustang5L5 has this stuff down to a science:
stangnet.com
My preference is the 94-98 swap with 99-04 front calipers as far as bang for the buck and they stop a Foxbody really well. Use a 94-98 e-brake handle and you do not have to do the tack weld mod on the Fox one. For those that have 93 cars you only need this bracket (recall item) to make the e-brake handle work correctly:
www.fordpartsgiant.com
Pretty sure this has been covered on here a couple of times but wanted to highlight it as it works really well.
If you want to ride and handle well then you should look at quality dampers like Bilsteins, Koni's, etc. A good set of springs will make all the difference and there are all kinds of opinions out there on those but a quick search with "convertible" in it will weed most of them out. If it were me I would immediately get a set of Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates as they make a noticeable difference in the handling department.
Full length subframe connectors like Mustang5L5 linked will stiffen the car up which also translates into better handling. I run the Global West units on both of my cars as I prefer how the GW units tuck up beside the subframes versus mounting underneath them. My cars are low so I like the added ground clearance. Strut tower brace and k-member brace would be good ones to get as well.
Brakes are subjective in that if you want to keep the four lug then I would suggest you just change pad compounds up front and if you are okay with it move to disc brakes in the rear as they look better and they do offer a slight performance advantage over the drum brakes. If you want to move to five lug go here as Mustang5L5 has this stuff down to a science:
Brakes - The Ultimate 4-lug/5-lug Brake Conversion/upgrade Thread
Starting this thread with the hopes of reducing the number of 5-lug or general brake upgrade threads that have been appearing on the forums since most of the major brake conversion sites have gone down. This thread will be strictly informational, and any off-topic banter or user specific...
stangnet.com
My preference is the 94-98 swap with 99-04 front calipers as far as bang for the buck and they stop a Foxbody really well. Use a 94-98 e-brake handle and you do not have to do the tack weld mod on the Fox one. For those that have 93 cars you only need this bracket (recall item) to make the e-brake handle work correctly:
1R3Z-2A753-BA 1R3Z2A753BA Genuine Ford Part
Ford part # 1R3Z-2A753-BA 1R3Z2A753BA, $4.13 online at FordPartsGiant.com. Wholesale-priced and fast-delivered Ford parts Kit - Parking Brake Repair.
www.fordpartsgiant.com
Pretty sure this has been covered on here a couple of times but wanted to highlight it as it works really well.
Thanks for all the great info. I want to keep the car stock. I have no plans on racing it. Dropping it off to my mechanic this week for an inspection so I’ll have him check the suspension. I’m expecting to have to replace stuff. The car hasn’t been used much the last 7 years. Only thing prev owner did was 3.73 gears, dynomax exhaust and shift kit
- Mar 2, 2015
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I've owned a few convertibles. If the body is twisting over bumps subframe connectors will help it. As the resident thief says, strut tower braces also make a huge improvement. From the factory there is supposed to be a V brace from bottom of k member to each corner of the front bumper. There is another V brace from back of k member to each side of the frame. A good way to test twist is to unlatch the top above windshield and go over a speed bump at a 45 degree angle slowly. If you see the top of the windshield move in relation to the top frame it needs stiffening. Stifflers fit system is the best I've ever seen in person. It has full length sub frame connectors, jacking rail for along pinch welds, and bracing that runs between them. If you do decide to get subframe connectors get the ones with the seat braces.
https://buystifflers.com/fit-system-79--93-/
https://buystifflers.com/fit-system-79--93-/
The factory k member brace is a weeny POS, be like building a roll bar outta lawn chairs 
If you want it stiff then Kenny Brown makes the extreme matrix...
kennybrown.com
Global West also makes something similar
Lots of options out there but the one thing we are all telling you is convertibles need all the help to stiffen the chassis they can get.
Extreme Matrix Chassis Support System 1979-1993 Mustang GT
Extreme Matrix Chassis Support System vastly improves your ride quality and handling and strengthens the unibody, reducing twist/flex. Lightweight, heavy-duty, low profile design. Great for high horsepower cars. Includes Kenny’s exclusive Double-Cross™ Subframe Connectors, Jacking Rails &...
kennybrown.com
Global West also makes something similar
1979-1993 Mustang Competition Subframe Connectors # 921
Global West Suspension manufactures competition subframe connectors for the Mustang (model years-- 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, and 1993). <strong>The Global West Suspension Advantage: Product Information</strong> <iframe width="560"...
www.globalwest.net
Lots of options out there but the one thing we are all telling you is convertibles need all the help to stiffen the chassis they can get.
Ya think? Not sure what my sister( owner since 84) did here........The factory k member brace is a weeny POS, be like building a roll bar outta lawn chairs
She has a newer 911 with a six speed manual now. I can only imagine...
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