Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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.....randomness..... I tune in to be constantly confused and amused.
a box to 
in while you drive?
a box to in while you drive?
I know that I'm a page and a half behind but I have a question. 
How much of that stuff could you have gotten for $50?
How much of that stuff could you have gotten for $50?
I don't know,......Kinda moot now anyway.I know that I'm a page and a half behind but I have a question.
How much of that stuff could you have gotten for $50?
Hello again everyone, and welcome to the results show from last nights first ever broadcast of the new Exciting cyber game show.....What The Hell Is That Thing?!!!
After the phone lines closed last night, I'm sorry to inform everyone that nobody successfully guessed what the hell that thing was. Some folks came close, but nobody managed to figure out quite what that thing was.
So,.......without further ado, let me reveal what it was:
** Can somebody dim the lights please...........
Why its an exhaust shroud for a Gila Monster!!!!
(and it was right on the tip of your tongue right?..
)
Actually, we did have a single correct guess from one of our local contestants, but he failed to submit his entrance fee, and was too late anyway as the operators were no longer standing by.
But since I'm a nice guy, and in the spirit of fairness, lets see what we can find.....
Don, tell him what he won!!!
Nicholas.........do you like vintage, collectible cars??? I'm sure that answer is yes! How would you like to be well on your way to owning a...............
1983 Plymouth Reliant K car!!!!
We've scoured the internet, and managed to secure a coveted part of that car, so if you ever decide to restore one of these cars, you wont have to worry about not being able to get a nice left hand headlight trim bezel for it,.
Here Ya go Nick!
Have a very nice day!!
Actually.......
What we have here is version three of my attempt to get the hot air off of the rear mounted radiators, and out of the car. The first attempt remains, I just cut a hole above the rear end, and left it there. My concern was that hot air from the road, and coming off the exhaust would enter that opening and kinda defeat my purpose. In addition to that, the cross section of that cut out was smaller than I wanted, I wanted to be sure there was more exhaust volume than intake volume to offset the dual 6" diameter inlets.
Version #2 had me trying to adapt two gi-honkin 6" duct hoses to the exhaust vent in the middle of the trunk lid. Those hoses turned out looking like ass, as I needed to have quite a bit of additional slop so that the hoses would allow the trunk to open and close properly. What I ended up with was something that looked like Moby Dick's Large intestine laying in my trunk. Scratch version 2.
Version 3 solves my problem. While it still takes up a fair amount of trunk space, There is still enough room to carry a couple of small suit cases on top, and a tool set, and emergency supplies where the spare used to go, so I'm all good.
The thing in the pics is only mocked up for the sake of getting everything in there. I have to take it back out, and seal the corners as water will run down this thing now, and I do not want any leaks going in my trunk. Additionally, I've still gotta finish the trunk itself (seam sealer,and spray bomb bedliner) but as far as how I'm getting the hot air off and out of the heat exchangers,....I'm done.
After the phone lines closed last night, I'm sorry to inform everyone that nobody successfully guessed what the hell that thing was. Some folks came close, but nobody managed to figure out quite what that thing was.
So,.......without further ado, let me reveal what it was:
** Can somebody dim the lights please...........
Why its an exhaust shroud for a Gila Monster!!!!
(and it was right on the tip of your tongue right?..
)Actually, we did have a single correct guess from one of our local contestants, but he failed to submit his entrance fee, and was too late anyway as the operators were no longer standing by.
But since I'm a nice guy, and in the spirit of fairness, lets see what we can find.....
Don, tell him what he won!!!
Nicholas.........do you like vintage, collectible cars??? I'm sure that answer is yes! How would you like to be well on your way to owning a...............
1983 Plymouth Reliant K car!!!!
We've scoured the internet, and managed to secure a coveted part of that car, so if you ever decide to restore one of these cars, you wont have to worry about not being able to get a nice left hand headlight trim bezel for it,.
Here Ya go Nick!
Have a very nice day!!
Actually.......
What we have here is version three of my attempt to get the hot air off of the rear mounted radiators, and out of the car. The first attempt remains, I just cut a hole above the rear end, and left it there. My concern was that hot air from the road, and coming off the exhaust would enter that opening and kinda defeat my purpose. In addition to that, the cross section of that cut out was smaller than I wanted, I wanted to be sure there was more exhaust volume than intake volume to offset the dual 6" diameter inlets.
Version #2 had me trying to adapt two gi-honkin 6" duct hoses to the exhaust vent in the middle of the trunk lid. Those hoses turned out looking like ass, as I needed to have quite a bit of additional slop so that the hoses would allow the trunk to open and close properly. What I ended up with was something that looked like Moby Dick's Large intestine laying in my trunk. Scratch version 2.
Version 3 solves my problem. While it still takes up a fair amount of trunk space, There is still enough room to carry a couple of small suit cases on top, and a tool set, and emergency supplies where the spare used to go, so I'm all good.
The thing in the pics is only mocked up for the sake of getting everything in there. I have to take it back out, and seal the corners as water will run down this thing now, and I do not want any leaks going in my trunk. Additionally, I've still gotta finish the trunk itself (seam sealer,and spray bomb bedliner) but as far as how I'm getting the hot air off and out of the heat exchangers,....I'm done.
Um, how about just airfare to Syria, and I will pay for the rest of my trip since I missed the phone operator cut off, Peggy?
Do you suppose a heat extractor style vent on top of the trunk would help? A reversed Gila Gill if you will.
I plan to do something still to cosmetically " blend/cover/replace that stark drain hole lookin grille in the middle of the trunk, but I have to wait till an epiphany hits me.
Molded into the trunk lid and painted body color. Simple, cheap, and functional. Would be pretty sleek too. You think I'm kidding, but Im not.
Molded into the trunk lid and painted body color. Simple, cheap, and functional. Would be pretty sleek too. You think I'm kidding, but Im not.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccenFp_3kq8
Seriously. @95BlueStallion. I agree that that louver would be a simple cheap solution that would look way better than the existing grille. There's too much time invested in the lower frame now to try and change it. I can see that the louvers would be simple to make it follow the crown of the trunk, but there is no way to secure the bottom part that has the sealing frame if there aren't 15 bolts through bolted from the top, as the bottom is made up of welded nuts attached to the frame. That louver is mega thin I can't get my head around how I'd put it on top. I can't even counter sink the screws, as they can't hang lower than the bottom of the underside of the trunk deck.
Well, no real need for a pictorial update. I did as planned. Stripped the entire trunk drip rail and primed it in etching primer. I found a propane torch to be my best tool for that endeavor. Heated the paint till it bubbled, and brushed it briskly w/ a regular stainless steel wire brush. Bare metal in one minute or less 8" at a time.
I went to HD, and bought that flex seal junk, not actually the exact stuff, but a krylon version of the same. It's like sprayable undercoating, only thinner. I sprayed all of the inside seams of the main duct box.
I sealed the area above the rear end tunnel where water will dump into when it rains/ I wash the car with a polyurethane caulk. And I covered the old hole I cut on top of the tunnel with a piece of .030 aluminum plate.
When you look at that part of the car, you'll see the channels formed into the floor to add strength. By riveting a thin piece of sheet metal over that, the low parts of the channel will act as gutters. Water will dump into the enclosure, and run back out through those "gutters".
** not the "after shot", just an old pic so that you can see the area I'm talking about.
I painted the whole trunk floor, and inside quarter area w/ a gallon of Duplicolor Bedliner that I had on a shelf, un-opened since 2007. I read the instructions that told me to shake the hell out of the can for two minutes before application ( which I did). I originally bought this stuff for an old street rod project, and decided against using it for the next 2 projects because of the potential mess. When I opened the can and looked inside, I wasn't surprised to see jello instead of paint, so I stirred it like mad for another minute, and then rolled that junk all over the inside of my trunk.
I was right.
It was messy.
The stupid crap dried to a tacky state in a matter of minutes. If you moved around, and did a spot here and there, then came back to a previously applied section, the roller would try to peel it back off. Whether or not that was due to the fact that the stuff had significantly dried out already, ( which I'm sure it was) the bottom line was that trying to roll paint in, and around the dips and rises of the channeling, into the spare tire well, and everywhere else before you had to revisit an area that was already painted proved to be a pain in the ass. I did manage to get it all covered and left it overnight to dry.
The next day, I painted the shroud in sprayable Bedliner and then reassembled the thing.
The whole painting process on the trunk floor was kinda pointless actually, because it will be finished similarly to how the red car was done, w/ paneled, and upholstered covers along the front, back, and sides, with carpet finishing the floor. I found a hard plastic tool box that I'll make a custom enclosure to recess it into the spare wheel tub, and make a remove able cover for that. That tool box will hold the requisite emergency tools, some basic first aid junk, and a can of fix a flat.
Lastly, I had to solve the cosmetic issue on the trunk deck that will replace the rectangular grille that is there presently.
My buddy @95BlueStallion recommended that I replace that grill w/ a standard residential louverd return air grille, and weld the piece into the deck and blend it all in.
At first, I rejected the idea, but I started thinking more seriously about it. I bought one and trial fitted the thing.
It would've worked.
The reason that it won't work is two fold:
1. Is that it's paper thin. Probably 24 ga. It bends just by looking at it wrong. The louver vents are so easy to tweek it's too much of a risk to make something this flimsy a permanent part of the trunk deck.
2. Even if I decided to ignore the above, the thing is powder coated. Trying to get that white paint off the thing is next to impossible. I did manage to use the torch and use the same method that I did on the drip rail to remove the paint, but that super thin stuff warps by the time it's hot enough for the paint to lift. Imagine how bad it'll warp if I tried to weld it.
So, I'm thinking no on that, but it did solve the problem.
There are guys out there that punch louvers onto a blank piece of 18 ga. Sheet metal. I think I'll have one if them punch me a plate of 3 rows of 3" louvers that I'll weld in instead.
Just a generic pic from one of those guys. I'll call on monday, and order the panel that'll fit my opening.
I went to HD, and bought that flex seal junk, not actually the exact stuff, but a krylon version of the same. It's like sprayable undercoating, only thinner. I sprayed all of the inside seams of the main duct box.
I sealed the area above the rear end tunnel where water will dump into when it rains/ I wash the car with a polyurethane caulk. And I covered the old hole I cut on top of the tunnel with a piece of .030 aluminum plate.
When you look at that part of the car, you'll see the channels formed into the floor to add strength. By riveting a thin piece of sheet metal over that, the low parts of the channel will act as gutters. Water will dump into the enclosure, and run back out through those "gutters".
** not the "after shot", just an old pic so that you can see the area I'm talking about.
I painted the whole trunk floor, and inside quarter area w/ a gallon of Duplicolor Bedliner that I had on a shelf, un-opened since 2007. I read the instructions that told me to shake the hell out of the can for two minutes before application ( which I did). I originally bought this stuff for an old street rod project, and decided against using it for the next 2 projects because of the potential mess. When I opened the can and looked inside, I wasn't surprised to see jello instead of paint, so I stirred it like mad for another minute, and then rolled that junk all over the inside of my trunk.
I was right.
It was messy.
The stupid crap dried to a tacky state in a matter of minutes. If you moved around, and did a spot here and there, then came back to a previously applied section, the roller would try to peel it back off. Whether or not that was due to the fact that the stuff had significantly dried out already, ( which I'm sure it was) the bottom line was that trying to roll paint in, and around the dips and rises of the channeling, into the spare tire well, and everywhere else before you had to revisit an area that was already painted proved to be a pain in the ass. I did manage to get it all covered and left it overnight to dry.
The next day, I painted the shroud in sprayable Bedliner and then reassembled the thing.
The whole painting process on the trunk floor was kinda pointless actually, because it will be finished similarly to how the red car was done, w/ paneled, and upholstered covers along the front, back, and sides, with carpet finishing the floor. I found a hard plastic tool box that I'll make a custom enclosure to recess it into the spare wheel tub, and make a remove able cover for that. That tool box will hold the requisite emergency tools, some basic first aid junk, and a can of fix a flat.
Lastly, I had to solve the cosmetic issue on the trunk deck that will replace the rectangular grille that is there presently.
My buddy @95BlueStallion recommended that I replace that grill w/ a standard residential louverd return air grille, and weld the piece into the deck and blend it all in.
At first, I rejected the idea, but I started thinking more seriously about it. I bought one and trial fitted the thing.
It would've worked.
The reason that it won't work is two fold:
1. Is that it's paper thin. Probably 24 ga. It bends just by looking at it wrong. The louver vents are so easy to tweek it's too much of a risk to make something this flimsy a permanent part of the trunk deck.
2. Even if I decided to ignore the above, the thing is powder coated. Trying to get that white paint off the thing is next to impossible. I did manage to use the torch and use the same method that I did on the drip rail to remove the paint, but that super thin stuff warps by the time it's hot enough for the paint to lift. Imagine how bad it'll warp if I tried to weld it.
So, I'm thinking no on that, but it did solve the problem.
There are guys out there that punch louvers onto a blank piece of 18 ga. Sheet metal. I think I'll have one if them punch me a plate of 3 rows of 3" louvers that I'll weld in instead.
Just a generic pic from one of those guys. I'll call on monday, and order the panel that'll fit my opening.
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While I cant argue that the return air vent is flimsy and not weldable, you glued your engine together and could probably glue and smooth it to the trunk if you tried. That being said, your custom stamped louvers should look good when done.
Well that wont happen, I'll tell you that. and I wont waffle on that statement.
The front headlight bucket on the red car was partially glued on because of the cast pot metal having to mate to the welded mild steel. After a year of driving, that headlight bucket fractured the paint. Not gonna happen again. Especially in the middle of the trunk. I'm gonna look into making my own louvers tomorrow. If that idea works, there'll be pics. If not, then you won't have to put up with my blather.
i know you are working on other areas but I was wondering, will your tail lights have the sequential turn signals? I was thinking with your new halo headlights and custom turn signals on the front .Having sequential turn signals with Led's up front behind your custom lenses would look pretty awesome
- Dec 19, 2010
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@95BlueStallion
I've been wanting some killer led taillamps for my car, but haven't seen any done properly imho. Those need many more leds, smaller and more closely spaced. Like something you'd see on a new cadillac. I've actually considered trying to build them myself, but I don't know if i have enough patience these days. Lol.
I've been wanting some killer led taillamps for my car, but haven't seen any done properly imho. Those need many more leds, smaller and more closely spaced. Like something you'd see on a new cadillac. I've actually considered trying to build them myself, but I don't know if i have enough patience these days. Lol.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I see those LED tails on Ebay all the time for $100-140. None of them look right.
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