candphall
Active Member
I am amazed at the amount of work that these parts take to work. I am even more surprised that these aftermarket companies can stay in business.
The Dynacorn doors i used on my 66 conversion were a perfect fit right out of the box ,just as good as the originals. I compared the driver door to the pass door on these 67s and you can easily see the pass. side inner shell is cocked back towards the striker plate pulling the hinges back. I had to slot the holes in the front door post about 1/8 inch to get the hinges back far enough for a decent gap .This leaves the front inner shell to far back for the door seal in the front ,i will have to figure out something to make the seal touch. The driver door is just about perfect so the jig ,if they use one ,for the pass door must be off. I will just have to wait for the fenders to see what i will have to do .I think because the inner shell cocks back it pulls the top of the outer skin back as well and that is why it has a twist and are short at the top. I wish i would have had good original inner shells to re skin but the ones i have were rotted away at the bottoms.Jim, I had the same problem with my new door shell on the 66. Drivers door. I made the rear of the door longer so I could close the seal gap at the front. I had to open the hinge adjustment slots on the piller slightly to the rear about an 1/8" but got pretty decent gaps and the weather strip should seal. Cant get my fingers in the gap at the front. Also, the hinge plates in the door should just be stuck with paint. and I had to open the holes just enough to get the full range out of the plates. All the doors are crap. I looked for a factory door at Carlisle but nothing much better than what I had and expensive. Once I got the new shell I resigned myself to making it work...painfull.
With the luck i have been having on parts lately they will probably be short and really open up the gap.Maybe the fenders will be as bad as the doors and they will fit perfectly when matched together!