This is the MAP, correct?And you have the MAP sensor plumbed into the intake manifold correct?
The code 1 is a spacer code that signals that the computer is beginning to dump codes.
MAP/BARO sensor operation and code 22
Revised 19-Jul-2011 to add functional descriptions for MAP and BARO operation.
On a Speed Density car, the MAP/BARO sensor is connected to the intake manifold and acts to sense the manifold pressure. Lower vacuum inside the intake manifold when combined with more throttle opening measured by the TPS means more airflow through the engine. As airflow increases, fuel flow through the injectors needs to increase to keep the air/fuel ratio where it needs to be. When manifold vacuum increases, the engine is either decelerating or idling, and it needs to reduce the fuel flow through the injectors.
On a Mass Air car, the MAP/BARO sensor vents to open air and actually senses the barometric pressure due to changes in weather and altitude. Its purpose is to set a baseline for the computer to know the barometric pressure. As barometric pressure decreases, it leans out the fuel flow to compensate for less oxygen in the air. When the barometric pressure rises, it increases to add fuel since there is more oxygen in the air. The fuel requirements decrease as altitude increases, since the atmospheric pressure decreases.
Disconnecting the MAP or BARO sensor will set code 22.Be sure to clear the computer codes by disconnecting the code dump test jumper or pressing the clear button on the scanner once the codes start to dump.
Misconnecting the BARO sensor to vacuum on a Mass Air car will cause the computer to lean out the fuel mixture.
Code 22 or 126 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range. The MAP or BARO sensor is pretty much the same sensor for both Mass Air & Speed Density cars. The main difference is where it is connected. Mass Air cars vent it to the atmosphere, while Speed Density cars connect it to the intake manifold vacuum. Its purpose is to help set a baseline for the air/fuel mixture by sensing changes in barometric pressure. The MAP or BAP sensor puts out a 5 volt square wave that changes frequency with variations in atmospheric pressure. The base is 154 HZ at 29.92" of mercury - dry sunny day at sea level, about 68-72 degrees. You need an oscilloscope or frequency meter to measure it. There a very few DVM’s with a price tag under $40 that will measure frequency, but there are some out there.
The MAP/BARO sensor is mounted on the firewall behind the upper manifold on 86-93 Mustangs.
Baro or MAP test using a real frequency meter - run the test key on, engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout. And oscilloscope is very useful if you have access to one or know of someone who does. With an oscilloscope, you can see the waveform and amplitude.
If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer
Some basic checks you can make to be sure that the sensor is getting power & ground:
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.
Check the resistance between the black/white wire on the MAP/BARO sensor and then the black/white wire on the EGR and the same wire on the TPS. It should be less than 1 ohm. Next check the resistance between the black/white wire and the negative battery cable. It should be less than 1.5 ohm.
The following power on check requires you to turn the ignition switch to the Run position.
Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white wire on the TPS or EGR sensors. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.
Code 98 - basic computer internal tests not passed before it started processing the request to dump codes. Do a Key On Engine Off test before starting the engine. Wait until you see the 11 flash before pressing any buttons if you have a hand operated scanner. The computer is operating in Limp mode, so fix any codes it dumps prior to doing anything else. In your case, it is set because of the code 22.
Well, from the factory, the MAP sensor (which is what you are pointed to) connects to the intake manifold. Technically on speed density it's referred to as a BAP sensor (barometric air pressure sensor)
However, connecting it to the tree shouldn't make a difference. When i installed my Cobra intake, there was no provision for it so I direct connected it to the vac tree and it's been fine.
However, the second part confuses me. What line runs up into the fender? The BAP just has 1 port on it and 1 vac line connects it to the source. Beyond that, i'm confused as to what line is running into the fender.
You sure you haven't mixed up the windshield washer fluid line which crosses right in front of it?
At this point, i might be considering replacing the MAP sensor. Rockauto.com has 1 motorcraft sensor in stock for $47 (MOTORCRAFT Part # DY532) plus there are discount codes available. I might get ready to just pull the trigger on a new one if troubleshooting comes up empty.
But, befor you buy, this might be helpful (although i'm sure you prob saw it)
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,19336.0.html
One last ditch thing i'd do. Plug the TPS in and verify the voltage is between 0.6 - 1.1 volt at idle. You don't need to hit .999999v, that's a huge myth. Anywhere in the specified range is fine. Then, erase all the codes.
Go for a drive a bit, let the car run, and then redo all the codes again. See if oyu still get code 22 (which seems ot be your biggest issue)
Also, did you perform the cylinder balance test and get a 9 (all cylinders OK)
Roger, thanks again. I'll try that out tomorrow morning. God it gets dark early now.Map sensor wiring:
black/white - ground
orange/white +5 volts power
white/red signal out.
Measure the signal using the black/white and white/red wires.
Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs -it says Mass Air, but the MAP/Baro sensor wiring is the same for both mass air and speed density.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
O2 sensor wiring harness
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangO2Harness.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif
TFI module differences & pin out
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif
Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
87-92 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92 PowerWindowWiring.gif
93 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang93PowerWindows.gif
T5 Cutaway showing T5 internal parts
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/5_Speed_Cutaway_Illustrated.jpg
Visual comparison of the Ford Fuel Injectors, picture by TMoss:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg
Yes, but put a meter on the battery and have someone rev, see if the voltage fluctuates.
Should be around 12V at idle and 14V just above idle and to redline.
There's a small circuit board on backside of the gauge cluster. I "think" that may have to do with your issue. I'd research this a bit more though first.