Suspension A not-so-low lowering spring

Justin87

5 Year Member
Aug 7, 2017
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Hello Gentlemen;

After much googling and scrolling through old posts on this, and other forms, I have a question about lowering springs.

I have everything selected for my suspension overhaul (adjustable struts, adjustable shocks, sway bars, lower control arms) except for springs.

From what I can tell from a lot of previous posts: H&R are great and have a pretty good drop, Eibach Pros are decent, Maximum Motorsports are best for competition, Lakewoods are for drag racing only.

My question is a little different: what brand of lowering spring has the LEAST amount of drop?

My car has a DSS 306 with a P/A performance C4 with a pretty deep pan so I don’t want it slammed. I’m also 36 years old and would like to have it be semi-comfortable. Or at least not break my tail-bone over every bump.

The car is also NOT a daily driver, it is strictly a toy. I might make it to the drag strip once this summer otherwise it’ll be 100% street driven.

Basically I’d like it to be a little lower, and hopefully not ride like utter garbage. Perhaps that’s a pipe dream, but I figured I’d ask.

Thanks all
-Justin
 
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I put an Eibach Pro-kit on my SN95 and it barely lowered the car. Just enough to be noticeable but not low at all.


On my Fox, I ran bullitt/maxh 1 oem springs and it was a very subtle lowering.
 
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I put an Eibach Pro-kit on my SN95 and it barely lowered the car. Just enough to be noticeable but not low at all.


On my Fox, I ran bullitt/maxh 1 oem springs and it was a very subtle lowering.
I am currently leaning towards the Eibach Pros. From what I can tell from previous posts they are one of the most recommended springs.
 
I am currently leaning towards the Eibach Pros. From what I can tell from previous posts they are one of the most recommended springs.

The spring rates aren't super aggressive. You can also tailor them based on what isolators you run. Poly will keep drop to a minimum, rubber will drop to around advertsized level, and no isos will go about 1/4-1/2" more. For my car i run poly isos all around except upper front removed. I found that gave me about a 3/4" drop from stock which was perfect for my needs. Spring rates were not that much firmer than stock. I run bilstiens and the ride is nice but as with any mustang you will still get jarred over broken road.
 
Use the H&R's and coil overs in the front. Why at this point in the game pigeon hole yourself to a front ride height?
I also doubt trying to offset how springs ride with shock adjustments is going to work.
 
Use the H&R's and coil overs in the front. Why at this point in the game pigeon hole yourself to a front ride height?
I also doubt trying to offset how springs ride with shock adjustments is going to work.
I am not looking to go coil-over at this time. I want to keep the stock locations. The H&R honestly sound like they are the best ride quality for street, Just hard to visualize a 1.5in drop. Not sure if that'll be to low for me.
 
Was looking at those too!

Some of the older posts either said they are to harsh, or that they lowered much more than advertised. It’s all subjective I suppose. ‍

Fyi, the FPP M-5300-B springs (which are progressive) actually have the exact same spring rates as the factory springs (which are also progressive) that came on your car.... they're just shorter. That would give less overall suspension travel.... but with the same spring rates, I wouldn't think they would drastically affect ride quality. Dunno though. :shrug:

In case you want to compare, the rates are 425-530 lbs/inch for the front and 200-300 lbs/inch for the rear. The first number is at normal ride height and the second number is at full jounce.
 
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Fyi, the FPP M-5300-B springs (which are progressive) actually have the exact same spring rates as the factory springs (which are also progressive) that came on your car.... they're just shorter. That would give less overall suspension travel.... but with the same spring rates, I wouldn't think they would drastically affect ride quality. Dunno though. :shrug:

In case you want to compare, the rates are 425-530 lbs/inch for the front and 200-300 lbs/inch for the rear. The first number is at normal ride height and the second number is at full jounce.
Good info! Based on what you are saying I wouldn't think it would be that harsh. Based on previous posts (some of them from quite a while ago) people seemed pretty displeased by the ride quality on those.

BUT... perhaps I am over thinking the matter totally. I've been known to do that.
 
Yea, not sure on the ride quality deterioration part of it. Just surmising due to the spring rates being identical. Unless you're trying to really fine tune your ride height, I would recommend rubber isolators. The polyurethane ones, or leaving them out completely, will definitely add some harshness to the suspension.
 
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I ran the 5300-C springs. They slammed the front of my car down and road harsh. I went to the bullitt spring after those which lifted the car back up. Similar rates, but now with strut travel the car rode much better.
 
My '89 GT Convertible has original springs which have compressed over the years despite only 28000 miles and the whole car was sitting lower than spec. The roads in the countryside around here in France are not highway standard and the ride was decidedly rough. I fitted caravan coil spring adjusters and a set of gas shocks on the rear and the ride improved dramatically. It also helped clearance fitting the silencers......
 
I ran the H&R Super Sports with Tokico Illumina struts and shocks on my 93 Coupe and it was a really good ride and performed on the curves really well. The springs are supposed to lower the front 1.5” and the rear 1” but mine didn’t drop that much. I attribute that to the springs that I removed were stock and were used and I installed urethane top and bottom isolators on the front and bottom on the rear. I think the drop was more like 1” and 3/4” but again the old springs were worn.
 
I have the K&R race in my 83.. The race were the only option for Verts when I bought mine... I see that MM has some new version ( Road & Track) as an option for Verts now....
Wish I could tell you how mine ride, but its not on the road yet....
Pic compared to stock TRX springs...
DSCF1163.JPG
 
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I put an Eibach Pro-kit on my SN95 and it barely lowered the car. Just enough to be noticeable but not low at all.


On my Fox, I ran bullitt/maxh 1 oem springs and it was a very subtle lowering.
and I second this. The eibach pro's I would not do unless you want minimal drop. I actually have them on a second car and I'm even cut the springs just a tad, about a 1/4 which is a half at the car. I will remove the isolators on front and rear and just tape up and see how I like it and if there's any unbearable noise or anything. Aint much work to remove and reinstall so I'll try that before anything else. It's much better after I cut a little off but could use a little more
 
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and I second this. The eibach pro's I would not do unless you want minimal drop. I actually have them on a second car and I'm even cut the springs just a tad, about a 1/4 which is a half at the car. I will remove the isolators on front and rear and just tape up and see how I like it and if there's any unbearable noise or anything. Aint much work to remove and reinstall so I'll try that before anything else. It's much better after I cut a little off but could use a little more
I DO want a minimal drop. Back when I was 17 I cut my stock springs and my 5.0 was SLAMMED lol. Terrible ride quality but I was young and dumb and didn't care. Now I am 36 and and feel like 1 inch is plenty.

However, I was forgetting about the isolators. Adding new ones of those will raise it up even if the new springs bring it down. That's a good point.