Hot Stang
Member
You don't need a big carb either if you're going down that road. I'm only running a little 600 CFM. I get good milage as long as I keep my foot out of it
Engine Engine rebuild suggestions
- Thread starter JulianR
- Start date
You don't need a big carb either if you're going down that road. I'm only running a little 600 CFM. I get good milage as long as I keep my foot out of it
-
Sponsors (?)
Remove the factory airbox and put the compressor in that area. At least that is what I remember I did the last time the system on my Coupe was charged. May have hung it off the shock tower where it hung down where the MAF goes but it can be done.
While I'm working on pulling the engine, I'm still thinking about exactly what I want to do to it. In the mean time- can you please teach me about heads. I know CFM is the unit of measure, but what numbers do I look at when thinking about heads. Just CFM?
At this point, I haven't gotten to mine yet, so not sure what I even have, but assuming I have stock heads, what values do I compare to aftermarket heads to determine if they're bigger/better than mine or the same?
At this point, I haven't gotten to mine yet, so not sure what I even have, but assuming I have stock heads, what values do I compare to aftermarket heads to determine if they're bigger/better than mine or the same?
you most likely have E7 heads which flow as follows (old data I have from the now defunct powerheads.com:
Lift / Flow Rate in CFM
0.100” / 53.0
0.200” / 95.5
0.300” / 133.4
0.350” / 141.5
0.400” / 143.8
0.450” / 154.0
0.500” / 159.4
I will say that right now the most economical aluminum heads are the AFR Enforcers. TFS makes great stuff as well.
You get stupid and install a set of AFR 205’s or 225’s but they flow so much air that with that small of a NA motor it will fall on its face. It will run but not optimally.
So whatever heads you go with then build the rest of the induction system around them (cold air kit, MAF, TB, upper intake, and lower intake) i.e. make sure they will all flow what the heads will.
If you stay with the stock cam you may want to scrounge up a set of 1.7 ratio rockers to get a little more lift out of the stock cam profile.
Fuel system will need upgrades like a minimum of a 155 lph pump, adjustable FPR, and bigger injectors (match the MAF to them) but I think that has been covered.
Lift / Flow Rate in CFM
0.100” / 53.0
0.200” / 95.5
0.300” / 133.4
0.350” / 141.5
0.400” / 143.8
0.450” / 154.0
0.500” / 159.4
I will say that right now the most economical aluminum heads are the AFR Enforcers. TFS makes great stuff as well.
You get stupid and install a set of AFR 205’s or 225’s but they flow so much air that with that small of a NA motor it will fall on its face. It will run but not optimally.
So whatever heads you go with then build the rest of the induction system around them (cold air kit, MAF, TB, upper intake, and lower intake) i.e. make sure they will all flow what the heads will.
If you stay with the stock cam you may want to scrounge up a set of 1.7 ratio rockers to get a little more lift out of the stock cam profile.
Fuel system will need upgrades like a minimum of a 155 lph pump, adjustable FPR, and bigger injectors (match the MAF to them) but I think that has been covered.
2 more questions, but I'll post them in 2 separate posts.
For this post, I came across a set of gt40p heads that were being sold close to me with upgraded springs. The price was $250. When I met up to take a look, I noticed one of the bolt down holes was chipped. The seller assured me it's not an issue. I figured I take a chance because $250 is way cheaper than $1200 for the aluminum heads and I don't seem to find may of these for sale around me at any decent price.
Do you think this will be a problem?
For this post, I came across a set of gt40p heads that were being sold close to me with upgraded springs. The price was $250. When I met up to take a look, I noticed one of the bolt down holes was chipped. The seller assured me it's not an issue. I figured I take a chance because $250 is way cheaper than $1200 for the aluminum heads and I don't seem to find may of these for sale around me at any decent price.
Do you think this will be a problem?
Question number 2. I'm about an hour away from pulling the engine out. Where do I attach the chains or load leveler on the engine? If there ever were the stock engine lift hooks on the engine, they're no longer there 
I still have the accessory mount mounted on-- minus the AC and Power Steering.
One last thing, when spinning the pulley on the power steering pump by hand, it doesn't easily free spin-- I'm feeling some resistance. Is that normal? Power steering driving wise was never a problem.
I still have the accessory mount mounted on-- minus the AC and Power Steering.One last thing, when spinning the pulley on the power steering pump by hand, it doesn't easily free spin-- I'm feeling some resistance. Is that normal? Power steering driving wise was never a problem.
I went from one head to the other, using the 7/16 or the 3/8 bolt hole in them...Front to rear..Question number 2. I'm about an hour away from pulling the engine out. Where do I attach the chains or load leveler on the engine? If there ever were the stock engine lift hooks on the engine, they're no longer there
One last thing, when spinning the pulley on the power steering pump by hand, it doesn't easily free spin-- I'm feeling some resistance. Is that normal? Power steering driving wise was never a problem.
Jack the rear of the car up as high as you can. You will not have to tilt the engine as much...
keel
Active Member
If that chip gets into the threads of that bolt hole I would chase the threads and clean them up before trying to insert a fastener, but otherwise it looks like there is plenty of gasket surface left in that area and plenty of threads left in that bolt hole. I don't think it will cause any problems.
yea, agree there's plenty of threads. My only concern is will the bolt head have something to sit against to tighten down.
keel
Active Member
It appears to me that the hole in question is for the intake manifold, in which case the head of the bolt will be up against the lower intake, not the cylinder head.
keel
Active Member
As long as that chip doesn't prevent the bolt from threading in properly, I don't think you will have any issues at all. I would be careful to make sure it doesn't cross thread, but that would be my only concern.
I would run studs and not bolts. Studs are not as hard on the threads as they only exert a pulling force where bolts exert a pulling force coupled with a twisting force.
Wow, without seeing it in person only thing I would suggest is try to thread an intake bolt in there first to see it threads in and how much thread engagement you have.
I like the stud advice, possibly use a nut under it
Yeah I'm a hack
I like the stud advice, possibly use a nut under it
Yeah I'm a hack
@General - man I would be cautious with a nut under it because if it backs off wouldn’t it fall into the lifter valley?
I’m not a fan of the aluminum threads on the heads to torque an intake down. Pulled a couple on the AFR’s using bolts and had to heli coil them so that is when I switched to using studs and zero problems since.
I’m not a fan of the aluminum threads on the heads to torque an intake down. Pulled a couple on the AFR’s using bolts and had to heli coil them so that is when I switched to using studs and zero problems since.
I wouldn't be scared to do it.Wow, learning something new. Had to google it. I thought a bolt is a bolt is a bolt
Found ARP 354-2103 online-- unless you know of something cheaper.
Can't go wrong with ARP. Yeah there is cheaper stuff but be honest, not that much cheaper and no warranty.Wow, learning something new. Had to google it. I thought a bolt is a bolt is a bolt
I used Dorman studs from the local parts store. Took an intake bolt in with me and found some coarse thread by fine thread studs that worked. Grabbed the corresponding nuts and then some plain finish williams washers. Washers were suggested by my engine builder so I took his free advice and haven't looked back. Fastenal had the washers but if you have a Grainger or McMaster/Carr they have them as well as will a really good local fastener supply.
Similar threads
