Got it started, now just working out bugs....

Well, I did a whole top end and after getting it back together I couldnt get it started. After going over the much posted "No Start" list i FINALLY got it started.
So, heres what happened. I went over timing and the valve adjustment multiple times. Everything was done to a T. I Put it all back together and still nothing. It cranked but wouldnt start. I was getting seriously confused.
Anyway the most simple thing popped into my head. Compression????
So, I did the compression test and was getting 60 lb. readouts on all of the cyclinders. When I was bumping it over I had the fuel relay disconnected. What I figured was that the cyclinders must be washed out. So, I put a few drops of oil in each cylinder via the plug hole. I then put compressed air to each cylinder to see where the blow bye was. NONE!!!!
Put it back together and I had 100lb plus compression. Started it right up.
Now here is my question. The car wont stay running unless I hold the throttle around 1700 RPM. Think the timing is still a touch off or is the computer still trying to get used to the new hardware????
 
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mbsprinks281 said:
Well, I did a whole top end and after getting it back together I couldnt get it started. After going over the much posted "No Start" list i FINALLY got it started.
So, heres what happened. I went over timing and the valve adjustment multiple times. Everything was done to a T. I Put it all back together and still nothing. It cranked but wouldnt start. I was getting seriously confused.
Anyway the most simple thing popped into my head. Compression????
So, I did the compression test and was getting 60 lb. readouts on all of the cyclinders. When I was bumping it over I had the fuel relay disconnected. What I figured was that the cyclinders must be washed out. So, I put a few drops of oil in each cylinder via the plug hole. I then put compressed air to each cylinder to see where the blow bye was. NONE!!!!
Put it back together and I had 100lb plus compression. Started it right up.
Now here is my question. The car wont stay running unless I hold the throttle around 1700 RPM. Think the timing is still a touch off or is the computer still trying to get used to the new hardware????


60psi? then add oil and it went up to 100psi? I would say its a ring problem but im sure it ran fine before the swap and all of them couldnt go all at the same time. Just curious when u did the compression test did u open the throttle plate all the way? if not that might be why ur numbers are lower and when u added the air that might have brought it up to 100psi. Either that or your valve geometry is wayy offf. When i redid my heads i had to add shims to the stock rockers cuz i was getting like 10 psi of compression in some cylinder, i added the appropriate shims and i had full compression. Sounds like ur rockers are stud mount, what did u set the valve lash too, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn? Or could be from wrong size pushrods but idk. Hows the timing, firing order, tps, sounds like maybe a vacuum leak too.
 
Compression checks on a cold engine can give all sorts of crazy results.

Redo the compression test on a warm engine and you may even get a warm fuzzy feeling about the results...