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If there's no need to disassemble to have it decked, option #1 smells good to me.

I may have bigger plans in the future but other than blowing coolant, the engine is good as is.

Thanks for the advice.
 
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1. send the assembled short block to the machine shop and have them true up the deck. Put a new rear main seal, oil pump, hardended oil pump shaft, new other gaskets and roll

I dont see any reason to tear your block down only to have the deck machined

Just curious Mike, but how do they secure an assembled block into a milling machine? I read a post on another forum saying that the block gets bolted in via main saddle so it needs to be disassembled.
 
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What plugs are you using? Once it starts puking coolant damage is already done and there is no reversing it. I'm trying the Cometics now with a warped block and plenty of copper spray just so I can drive it but I am having no problems now. I will be gettign it retuned with new 60lb injectors so we'll see if that works out. My next move is a Dart block and blower pistons if I don't get this 351 from my friend. Sorry you are having troubles my friend
 
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What plugs are you using? Once it starts puking coolant damage is already done and there is no reversing it. I'm trying the Cometics now with a warped block and plenty of copper spray just so I can drive it but I am having no problems now. I will be gettign it retuned with new 60lb injectors so we'll see if that works out. My next move is a Dart block and blower pistons if I don't get this 351 from my friend. Sorry you are having troubles my friend

If the block ain't straight, your just wasting your time lol.
 
The block has to be stripped down to deck the surface. Meaning, all pistons, rods and the crank have to come out.

Of you are truly on a budget....

-deck it
-tank it
-hone it
-polish crank
-economical set of rings and bearings
-oil pump
-timing chain
-gaskets

Still think you will be pushing $1k when done.

Joe
 
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Joe, your suggestion was actually my first instinct, before I started thinking like a real cheapo. You have corralled my cheapness.

I already have access to a good tq wrench. Guess I now will be needing a ring grove cleaner and ring compressor.
 
Joe, your suggestion was actually my first instinct, before I started thinking like a real cheapo. You have corralled my cheapness.

I already have access to a good tq wrench. Guess I now will be needing a ring groove cleaner and ring compressor.

You can use an old ring to clean the grooves, along with a mild cleaning solution. Dawn dish soap and hot water actually works fairly well.

Autozone will rent a ring compressor, although it is super cheap. Best money I spent right here:

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sme-904000

Joe
 
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I like to set the pistons head down in a pan of water for a few days. It softens up the carbon and helps the cleaning process. I don't sink the wrist pin, just the portion of ring grooves.