I may have figured something out...when I unhook the distributor pickup coil connector, my ignition coil receives a full 12v from the red and green wires. When i hook the pick up coil back up, it drops to near 0 on the green wires and around 8 on the red wires. This tells me that the distributor must be stealing the power from the coil. I know the ground is in the distributor so could I be grounding out? and with it being a new pick up coil could the ground possibly bad or is there some way i didn't install the ground screw correctly?
Help! 78 II has no power to any electrical except headlights and taillights and hazards.
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I'm pretty sure the 0 volts with it connected and 12v disconnected is saying that that part of the circuit is acting how it should. As illustrated in my last post, when the pickup coil is activated the circuit is closed which then fires the coil. So the good new is that the coil is getting power as it should, it's just not being controlled like it should which then takes us back to either the pickup coil isn't operating properly or the module isn't.
Here's an easy way to check to see if that pickup coil is working as it should - as long as you have the right meter.
View: https://youtu.be/MA4dYnCWbg0?si=CMROx_OHkF3vT5-F
If you don't have a meter with audible alarm capability, Harbor Freight has a pretty cheap one that should get you by.
www.harborfreight.com
I think, if it were me, I'd pull the pick up from the distributor and just check to make sure it sends a signal like was illustrated in the video. While I had it off I'd chase the distributor wires and check for continuity too, that should be easy enough as I believe it's basically a separate harness that runs from the ignition module to the distributor. Then, if all of that checks out, I'd reinstall it all and make sure the pickup is close enough to the reluctor to ensure it's being triggered - without looking for specs, I'd say something in the .015"-.030" range. And - just to ensure we're not chasing our tails although I'm sure it's not a problem or you would have noticed - the distributor is turning with the engine? Seems elementary but it's something I don't think we've discussed. I mean if THAT'S the problem we're kinda wasting our time here.... lol
Another thing to check, the R-LB wire at the solenoid runs to the ignition module, I'd check that for continuity as well. Then I'd check to see if it's getting power when it's activated.
Chasing electrical gremlins sucks!!
Here's an easy way to check to see if that pickup coil is working as it should - as long as you have the right meter.
View: https://youtu.be/MA4dYnCWbg0?si=CMROx_OHkF3vT5-F
If you don't have a meter with audible alarm capability, Harbor Freight has a pretty cheap one that should get you by.
9-Function Digital Multimeter with Audible Continuity
Amazing deals on this 9-Function Digital Multimeter With Sound at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
I think, if it were me, I'd pull the pick up from the distributor and just check to make sure it sends a signal like was illustrated in the video. While I had it off I'd chase the distributor wires and check for continuity too, that should be easy enough as I believe it's basically a separate harness that runs from the ignition module to the distributor. Then, if all of that checks out, I'd reinstall it all and make sure the pickup is close enough to the reluctor to ensure it's being triggered - without looking for specs, I'd say something in the .015"-.030" range. And - just to ensure we're not chasing our tails although I'm sure it's not a problem or you would have noticed - the distributor is turning with the engine? Seems elementary but it's something I don't think we've discussed. I mean if THAT'S the problem we're kinda wasting our time here.... lol
Another thing to check, the R-LB wire at the solenoid runs to the ignition module, I'd check that for continuity as well. Then I'd check to see if it's getting power when it's activated.
Chasing electrical gremlins sucks!!
You can also check out how this guy dealt with his truck, his steps might be helpful for you.
View: https://youtu.be/J2dhZ5P1mDk?si=b4p3E6YeyygBj4iR
Or, if this helps, here's a link to a PDF of the overall system.
https://www.pittauto.com › pdfPDF
194-210-86 Ignition
View: https://youtu.be/J2dhZ5P1mDk?si=b4p3E6YeyygBj4iR
Or, if this helps, here's a link to a PDF of the overall system.
https://www.pittauto.com › pdfPDF
194-210-86 Ignition
Was flipping through the posts in this thread and it dawned on me about mystery wire #2 - I'm pretty certain that the capacitor or whatever it is that's along side the voltage regulator has a connection like that..... As I said, I upgraded to a 3G alternator so it's obsolete in my car. 
Hey Jack reread post 18 it sounds very much like you have a fried fusible link or 2
It does have a connection like that. mine is hooked up for the voltage regulator but I don't see one that can be hooked to the one just dangling. Is it possible ford made a spare wire so your alternator cant kill your battery due to a burned wire?Was flipping through the posts in this thread and it dawned on me about mystery wire #2 - I'm pretty certain that the capacitor or whatever it is that's along side the voltage regulator has a connection like that..... As I said, I upgraded to a 3G alternator so it's obsolete in my car.
I really don't know why there is more than one connection like that, the idea just popped into my head this morning.
It's possible that they made 2 to install 2 separate capacitors with different ratings? Otherwise I'm at a loss.The thick gauge yellow wire is spliced off the headlight wire but I still don't know why. Also, I took apart the distributor again and have good ground at the pickup coil so if it is the pick up coil, it's not a ground issue. Also, I confirmed the ignition coil is in fact good. No conclusive info but we are starting to eliminate parts of the circuit which is always good. I might buy a higher quality pickup coil because i did the test in the video you attached and I didn't get any beeping (continuity) but I might have done it wrong since it is a 3 prong connector.I really don't know why there is more than one connection like that, the idea just popped into my head this morning.
As I mentioned earlier, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check continuity of the circuits/connections I listed above to be sure there isn't a wire grounding itself out and preventing the signal from firing the coil. It could be as easy as a bad wire or bad ground keeping you from firing this thing up!
Here's something that might be helpful for you - was thinking about the harness that runs from the ignition module to the distributor and found that Painless offers a kit to install the Duraspark in older vehicles complete with a wiring diagram. I'm sure you can use it to decipher which wires are which to check them for continuity. 
chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30812.pdf
chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30812.pdf
Blackhawkxx
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- Mar 3, 2023
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I printed that to keep in my garage just in case down the road I need a refresher.
So I just ran into something interesting while looking up different scenarios for your situation. I know we mentioned the ballast resistor and how we're pretty sure that it's ok, but I'm on RockAuto's site and checked the ballast resistor basically just because I was curious how much it cost and it came back with this:
That's not what I was expecting to see when it's listed as a resistor! But those ends look awfully familiar when compared to mystery wire #2......
So I went through ALL of the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual and the only 2 places I found a black with yellow hash were on the rear window defrost circuit and the AC clutch circuit. I'm going to guess that mystery wire #2 is for the AC circuit, so it's not important to get the car running. But, if this wire goes to the ballast resistor circuit and you can readily identify it, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check it for corrosion and continuity, although I think we've pretty much ruled out a problem with that circuit.
I also opened the first page of the ignition chapter in my Haynes manual and found that the coil is only rated at 8v and the ballast is 1.5 ohms. And I said something about checking the clearance for the pickup coil to see if it's something like .015"-.030" - that is not adjustable as designed and is checked by a voltage drop, so the previous test I shared is probably the way to go in that case.
So, since the coil is rated at 8v, the 8v measurement you noticed earlier is what it's supposed to read which means that that circuit is apparently working.
You mentioned that you checked the pickup coil but weren't 100% sure you checked it correctly since it's a 3 wire connector - you'll connect the leads of the meter to the same color coming from the pickup. In the pic of the one I'm looking at on RockAuto it would be the purple and orange(?) wires.
That's not what I was expecting to see when it's listed as a resistor! But those ends look awfully familiar when compared to mystery wire #2......
So I went through ALL of the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual and the only 2 places I found a black with yellow hash were on the rear window defrost circuit and the AC clutch circuit. I'm going to guess that mystery wire #2 is for the AC circuit, so it's not important to get the car running. But, if this wire goes to the ballast resistor circuit and you can readily identify it, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check it for corrosion and continuity, although I think we've pretty much ruled out a problem with that circuit.I also opened the first page of the ignition chapter in my Haynes manual and found that the coil is only rated at 8v and the ballast is 1.5 ohms. And I said something about checking the clearance for the pickup coil to see if it's something like .015"-.030" - that is not adjustable as designed and is checked by a voltage drop, so the previous test I shared is probably the way to go in that case.
So, since the coil is rated at 8v, the 8v measurement you noticed earlier is what it's supposed to read which means that that circuit is apparently working.
You mentioned that you checked the pickup coil but weren't 100% sure you checked it correctly since it's a 3 wire connector - you'll connect the leads of the meter to the same color coming from the pickup. In the pic of the one I'm looking at on RockAuto it would be the purple and orange(?) wires.
Hey... I've got some news. I checked the harness that goes from the ignition module to the distributor pickup (four prong on the duraspark module) and I was getting really bad voltage readings. Each of the prongs were a different number with the highest being 8 volts and lowest .67 so that leads me to believe that the ignition module is not getting good power. I know the red/white connector is where it receives its power but I'm not sure where I should be looking for a problem. by the relay? ignition switch? I know the wires go to a ballast resistor but you said you found that the ballast resistor is showing up as a whole black cable so im clueless as to where I should be checking. We are so closeSo I just ran into something interesting while looking up different scenarios for your situation. I know we mentioned the ballast resistor and how we're pretty sure that it's ok, but I'm on RockAuto's site and checked the ballast resistor basically just because I was curious how much it cost and it came back with this:
That's not what I was expecting to see when it's listed as a resistor! But those ends look awfully familiar when compared to mystery wire #2......
I also opened the first page of the ignition chapter in my Haynes manual and found that the coil is only rated at 8v and the ballast is 1.5 ohms. And I said something about checking the clearance for the pickup coil to see if it's something like .015"-.030" - that is not adjustable as designed and is checked by a voltage drop, so the previous test I shared is probably the way to go in that case.
So, since the coil is rated at 8v, the 8v measurement you noticed earlier is what it's supposed to read which means that that circuit is apparently working.
You mentioned that you checked the pickup coil but weren't 100% sure you checked it correctly since it's a 3 wire connector - you'll connect the leads of the meter to the same color coming from the pickup. In the pic of the one I'm looking at on RockAuto it would be the purple and orange(?) wires.
For the distributor harness: I don't think I'd concentrate on what the voltages are as much as making sure that they're conducting the signal vs shorting to ground somewhere. But you can check both wires in the 2 wire connector by grounding the second lead. I'm not 100% sure how the module grounds, but I'd suspect the housing is grounding to the body and all of the wires run power through them. So the white wire as illustrated above should be 12v while cranking - which could be your problem - and the red one will probably have a little less than 12v in the key on position. It seems I recall reading this somewhere - it might be 8v - but I could be wrong. I know the coil is supposed to be 8v when it's triggered, though, as that's what the manual says.
So, here's what I'd do:
Disconnect the distributor harness from both ends and check for continuity. If all connections show 0 ohms (or something VERY close to it....) I'd reconnect it and call it good. I'd also visually inspect the individual wires and make any appropriate repairs.
Check the 2 wire connection for power. The red wire should give you 8v-12v with the key on. The white wire should give you a full 12v while cranking the engine.
If all of THAT checks out, and the pickup is giving you a signal when you test it now, I'd replace the module. If the pickup is NOT giving a signal when you test it, I'd remedy that situation first, then go from there.
So, here's what I'd do:
Disconnect the distributor harness from both ends and check for continuity. If all connections show 0 ohms (or something VERY close to it....) I'd reconnect it and call it good. I'd also visually inspect the individual wires and make any appropriate repairs.
Check the 2 wire connection for power. The red wire should give you 8v-12v with the key on. The white wire should give you a full 12v while cranking the engine.
If all of THAT checks out, and the pickup is giving you a signal when you test it now, I'd replace the module. If the pickup is NOT giving a signal when you test it, I'd remedy that situation first, then go from there.
What in the hell is going on in here?
Are we making any headway?
I think I've got him going down the right path, hopefully he can get it figured out soon!
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