K Member Comparison

  • Sponsors (?)


mine dont scrub with 275/40/r17's up front on 17x9 03 cobra wheels. its your fitment

Hmm, I had mine installed by a professional shop, one of the best if not the best mustang tuner/shop in houston. I even called up QA1 and they told me since their k-member is built for drag racing specifically its made to run skinnies up front and my front wheels were too wide....wonder what i should do...i was set on trying a set of spacers...i guess when i get home in a few weeks ill check the fitment myself. Thanks
 
Would anyone with k-members already installed be willing to comment on header clearance, especially on the passenger side?
Is it significantly easier to loosen/remove the passenger side header for transmission/clutch work? Also, is the starter accessible?

Also, is it generally easier to access both side header bolts for tightening or installation of locking header bolts?

And sorry for adding other content to the thread, but I feel that it applies since the information that would result from the above questions being answered may also influence one's decision to go with one particular brand k-member over another.

well i got mine up in there with the MM k-member. as far as bolts go the top middle ones are a pai on the passenger side.
 
I'd love to see examples of any UPR k-member failures. I've known many people to use them on daily driven street vehicles and have never seen one failure in regards to build quality. I've seen one A arm bend after the car was involved in nasty collision that also bent the frame.

Bill

dont know about failures but i have seen plenty of posts on here and other forums that say they have fitment issues and such. so im just going off what other people say.
 
well i got mine up in there with the MM k-member. as far as bolts go the top middle ones are a pai on the passenger side.

Would it be safe to assume that it would be easier to either raise or lower the engine with an aftermarket k-member than with the stock k-member? This might be useful in getting to those last top middle header bolts. Why are they a pain? Is there access, but it is just difficult, or are they near impossible to get to?
 
Would it be safe to assume that it would be easier to either raise or lower the engine with an aftermarket k-member than with the stock k-member? This might be useful in getting to those last top middle header bolts. Why are they a pain? Is there access, but it is just difficult, or are they near impossible to get to?

only reason i would think to raise the engine is to try and get the bolts from the top other than that i wouldn't, reason is its not the k-member in the way but the frame rail itself since the motors are offset to the right an inch or so to make room for the steering shaft on the driver side.