Bought the car off of my brother in law. He has never been able to fix it and I figured it was simple enough, come to find out we still can't seem to fix the issues. The car runs pretty rough even at idle and if you don't let it warm up and you start to drive it will bog down pretty bad and then just take off. He has unfortunately done the parts cannon and replaced just about every sensor on the engine including the o2's, he has also took it to two shops and they don't seem to have a clue either. They have also checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. The DTCs its throwing are P0175 and every now and then P1152, these are hard to get to come back on only after a lot of driveing but you can tell the car is not right at all. Were both at a lost. I can video or attempt to show anything that might help out.
P0175 2003 mustang gt
- Thread starter triple980
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I have done a compression test and it all came back fine, I also have done a leak down test and it held pressure. Not sure if this will help but I have used a monitoring tool and short term for bank 1 is 2.34% where as bank 2 is -20. and long term is -21 so rich right? Ive been thinking about doing the pump but was told its doing fine when they did a fuel pressure test while they drove it now that does not mean its not going bad.
Alright I have done that and also gotten new injectors and still having the same issue. I don't know if it'll help much or not but if I disconnect the battery for a hour or more and reconnect it, it seem to idle perfect and then a min later go back. I've also gotten another fuel rail and another fuel pressure sensor and to the same result.
So what all has been doen to the car if you know? If cams, Headers, Intake, or CAI is added, it could be the tune.... but since it is happening in one cylinder it makes me wonder if there is a vaccum leak as well... The only other thing is a bad valve spring or hydrolic lifter could be bad and causing the valve to float a bit... but that would be the last thing in my opinion... need some more info..
If there was a CAI added, where is the MAF located compared to stock? One thing on these cars is if it moves more than 4 inches or airflow changes can effect fuel trims and timing.... usually 18 inches max from the TB for the MAF... It could just be the tune..
Ed
If there was a CAI added, where is the MAF located compared to stock? One thing on these cars is if it moves more than 4 inches or airflow changes can effect fuel trims and timing.... usually 18 inches max from the TB for the MAF... It could just be the tune..
Ed
The car has a cold air intake its bigger in diameter but everything is in stock location has long tube headers with some kinda of x pipe and a tune to turn rear o2s off. I don't think its the mods because it was running just fine with it all before . I've smoke tested it myself and have had a shop do it as well and I pumped smoke in every vacuum line and spot into the engine I could. I think because it idles fine once its lost its memory for the computer something is getting a weird reading and then trying to compensating for something. But you could be right with the valve but there's no easy way to check that.
Another thing to consider is alternator putting out irregular voltage or bad cell in battery.... I switched to a higher amp alternator a long time ago and it really helped with higher rpm computer processing and issues.... I spin my car to around 6850 rpms going through the 1/4 mile and noticed that top end shifting and power was more stable... I had a bad alternator before and i did have intermittent issues around 2500-4000rpms... like a glitch...or delay when crusing or part throttle...
Ed
Ed
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