Electrical Pink/Black Wire Specifically

[FiveO_H.O(e?)]

Hello, all! I am new to these forums, and forums in general.

I have recently purchased a 1990 Vert, it is my first Fox Body 'Stang. I am troubleshooting the electrical side of the fuel system. I got the car with a "bent rim" (lol no, it was the axle) and a few other "minor problems". After replacing the bent axle, I took the car for a test drive, and was able to lay in to it, without issue! The reason I mention this, is because after that, I had it parked at a lot under a cover for a few months until the weather broke. On my way home, about a 3-4 mile drive, mostly no more than 25mph, a little less than mile from home it stalled. Seemed like it ran out of gas. Gauge read 1/4 tank but I thought hey, maybe the gauge doesn't read right. Added fresh fuel. After that, it started running long enough for me to attempt to turn around in someone's driveway, and stalled. Pushed it back to the side of the street, tapped on the fuel filter with a wrench, and it started once again. It died once again. Put the pedal to the floor, and it started, then died, once again. Pushed it home, and now here we are.

I heard the relay clicking under my seat. So I figured it was ok. Long story short, I took the seat out, relay harness looked questionable. I will be replacing that, but it's not the issue. Pink/Black Wire has power whenever the the ignition switch is in the run position, loses power when cranking. The wire has power even with the relay removed, and the harness cut off! IDK, I am tired. If this post doesn't make sense, sorry.

TLDR

• Fuel pump is on whenever key is turned to run, even with relay unplugged

• EEC signal to relay is good

• Pink/Black wire has power when key is turned, even when cut off from relay harness/plug

•Fuel pump intermittently doesn't work, doesn't seem to be temperature dependent

P.S. I also have a code 95

 

[AeroCoupe]

Sounds like you better check the wiring to the fuel pump in the trunk/hatch of the car. Start at the inertia switch mounted directly behind the driver side rear tail light assembly (behind the truck trim panel or plastic trim panel in the hatch). My guess is someone attempted to do some “custom” wiring.

 

[FiveO_H.O(e?)]

Sounds like you better check the wiring to the fuel pump in the trunk/hatch of the car. Start at the inertia switch mounted directly behind the driver side rear tail light assembly (behind the truck trim panel or plastic trim panel in the hatch). My guess is someone attempted to do some “custom” wiring.

Yeah, "custom" wiring sounds about right lol. Weather is pretty rainy right now, so I'll probably have to wait a few days.

 

[FiveO_H.O(e?)]

Sounds like you better check the wiring to the fuel pump in the trunk/hatch of the car. Start at the inertia switch mounted directly behind the driver side rear tail light assembly (behind the truck trim panel or plastic trim panel in the hatch). My guess is someone attempted to do some “custom” wiring.

Spot on! Well, almost. I went right to the inertia switch, and although not spliced into the factory wiring, I found two lone wires. Looked like they went to the pump, so I snipped 'em. Boom. Pump shut off, as it should. Replaced the factory relay harness found under the driver's seat, and now the pump primes instead of running continuously, and everything seems to be working as it should. I wonder why this guy didn't just repair the factory harness... I guess time will tell

 

[AeroCoupe]

Yeah, the wiring in your car may be "hold my beer" moment or two.