POLL: which weight oil do you all use???
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Castrol GTX 10W30 NON synth... Also a 500 ml bottle of GM Engine oil supplement in every oil change. I swear by this stuff.
Back in April of 1999 I when I had my T Type, I had a motor redone by a place in Toronto and on the way home in the T, it wiped the thrust bearing. The shop [their initials are N P - for Buick guys on here] told me to drive it like that and that I was hearing things, and if it broke in the 3 months they guaranteed the engine they'd fix it... Basically "get lost....".
I couldnt afford another rebuild, and this was my only car. So, I tried to blow the motor up just wiht my normal driving and lotsa track visits. A guy I knew recommended the GM EOS just incase it outlasted 3 months... It lasted all season.. and best that year was a 1.61, 12.40 @ 105
with the crank ready to come apart. But it was really clunking at the end there. 
In 2000 when I built my own motor to put in, we pulled this one apart and I can't believe bad things didn't happen from crank walk because you could take the thrust bearing, place it inside its journal in the crank, and move it up and down and it would make a "bing bing bing" noise and there was quite the gap in there 
Soooo thats just what I run. the GTX 10W30 and 500ml of GM EOS.
Back in April of 1999 I when I had my T Type, I had a motor redone by a place in Toronto and on the way home in the T, it wiped the thrust bearing. The shop [their initials are N P - for Buick guys on here] told me to drive it like that and that I was hearing things, and if it broke in the 3 months they guaranteed the engine they'd fix it... Basically "get lost....".
I couldnt afford another rebuild, and this was my only car. So, I tried to blow the motor up just wiht my normal driving and lotsa track visits. A guy I knew recommended the GM EOS just incase it outlasted 3 months... It lasted all season.. and best that year was a 1.61, 12.40 @ 105
with the crank ready to come apart. But it was really clunking at the end there. In 2000 when I built my own motor to put in, we pulled this one apart and I can't believe bad things didn't happen from crank walk because you could take the thrust bearing, place it inside its journal in the crank, and move it up and down and it would make a "bing bing bing" noise and there was quite the gap in there Soooo thats just what I run. the GTX 10W30 and 500ml of GM EOS.
colemanitis
Member
whitemustang89
Member
The Shape
Founding Member
I have been thinking about switching to 20W-50 in my car because the summers here are pretty bad. It hovers int he high 90,s with very high humitidy. I have decent pressure like 25 at idle and about 40-45 at 2K rpm's. I am just wondering if switching to 20W-50 will put any extra strain on my 115K mile oil pump?
ECU5.0
Banned
Stanger007
Founding Member
Stanger007
Founding Member
you should be able to pull the pcv valve off and see if oil is on it. Make sure you have the screen in that that sits down in the hole below the PCV. The PCV sucking oil is fairly typical for these cars.
blown93feature
New Member
siege
New Member
hmm...so thicker oil helps keep oil pressure up then? wish I woulda known that 4 days ago when I changed my oil with the usual motorcraft 10w30
...pressure likes to dip now and again, and its hot as hell here
...pressure likes to dip now and again, and its hot as hell here
YELLOWLXCOUPE
Founding Member
saniutza
New Member
my mechanic told me to use 20-50 or close to it to resolve my burning oil problem.. i don't have any probs with the rings or the valve seals... it just burns some like all 5.0 do... soon getting the CHP 347 stroker 
Kdubslugga
Active Member
TwinTurbo93
Founding Member
I use Valvoline 20/50 Racing. Of course my engine has 159,000 miles on it, so my tolerances are a whole lot looser than most....
I have been using this in a well built 351W roller motor (similiar to 1st gen Lightning) as well. Engine only has maybe 3000 mile son it tops, should I be running thinner oil, or synthetic?
Well-reputed local hot-rod shop I know of uses Valvoline 20/50 Racing in everything they build. The tolerances are incredibly tight in their engines, and they still choose 20/50. Dunno what that means, maybe because most of the engines they build are designed to make big HP's and spin hard.
I have been using this in a well built 351W roller motor (similiar to 1st gen Lightning) as well. Engine only has maybe 3000 mile son it tops, should I be running thinner oil, or synthetic?
Well-reputed local hot-rod shop I know of uses Valvoline 20/50 Racing in everything they build. The tolerances are incredibly tight in their engines, and they still choose 20/50. Dunno what that means, maybe because most of the engines they build are designed to make big HP's and spin hard.
Mike86Stang
Advanced Member
Well for me I use 10w-30 in the winter , & 20w-50 for the summer. This winter we got down to -12 degree's at one point & last summer we hit peaks of over 104 degree's.
If you've ever tried to pour 20w-50 when it's 30 degree's outside you'll know why I'd never run it in the winter. Worse than molassas lol.
BTW I alwasy use Castrol non synthetic in all my cars never had an issue.Oh & I also have HV oil pump just incase
If you've ever tried to pour 20w-50 when it's 30 degree's outside you'll know why I'd never run it in the winter. Worse than molassas lol.
BTW I alwasy use Castrol non synthetic in all my cars never had an issue.Oh & I also have HV oil pump just incase
