Is the engine sloped to the back 3.5 degrees? If memory serves me right that is the stock angle on the Fox Mustangs.
Subframe differences... Scratch that... K-Member Koncerns
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i would say more then that but i could be wrong, i bet if i grind those little nipples off the bottom of the mounts that would be pretty close. as far as setting down more goes if memory serve correct vert mounts are shorter, that may be a good option for something like this. i could also drill a provision for the little nipple, the driver side one sits right in the bolt groove, maybe that is why they connected the holes. i think just by doing that it would be pretty close to 3.5 degrees.
Just to point out that there is no physical mounting difference at the motor mounts between an 302 and 351. The difference in deck height is in the cylinder bore so distance from crank centerline to the top of the cylinder bore. 302 positions will fit a 351 and vise versa.
Yea i thought so, i was just thinking maybe the wall for the back of the intake was higher, and that may have been my issue. the issue was i had the mounts flipped passenger to driver. 302 pistons wrist pin is in a different location then the 351 though right? so as far as bore yes they would fit but you couldnt actually swap them? i do believe that hows it works anyway.
well after looking up how thats done... i think this thing is really going to live up to its name, a 400$ crank is well within the budget for this car...
Buddy of mine had a 408 that used a reground 400M crank 20 years ago or so. That motor lived for years on a 150 shot getting driven on the street and made many 1/4 passes during the summers. Newer stroker kits are way better but when you are on a budget…
I wouldn't get suckered into a forged crank for that engine. I will bet a cast crank will take that thing farther than you're willing to go.
Exception: Planning centri-boost from the go. Even then... It's a pretty hefty crank.
Exception: Planning centri-boost from the go. Even then... It's a pretty hefty crank.
honestly i figured a cast crank would be fine. at the end of the day it was a 50$ car. i have a set of 190, 2.10 1.60 heads with 62cc combustion chamber i picked up on ebay like 3 years ago for 500$ drilled out to 1/2" but came with 7/16 adapters. I think paired with a good cam itll come out great.
Alright so i got the ole 94 351 out of the garage today and i noticed where the dowel pin goes in the block where the bell bolts is cracked and it looks like its real flakey. is this something to be concerned about or do i just run it? Also i had a sever screw up when i was a kid and tried to drill out a btoken bolt near a water jacket, which i had filled with tig and i now need to drill and tap. anyone know what size drill and tap ill need? or at this point to i just go get a new block?
I’d just put the bellhousing on, bolt it down and call it a day. Those dowels are more for alignment but the bolts are providing the clamping force.
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