The Junk Pyle has moved forward, well sort of
- Thread starter General karthief
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Stock valve size on the P’s are 1.85/1.46. I would say that by the time you buy valves, cut the pockets, have seats installed, and do a valve job you could sell them and pick up a set of AFR Renegades and have heads the GT40’s could never touch.
Even the AFR 165's would be superior in every aspect than a GT40, P or otherwise could ever produce.
It all depends on what your going to do and want out of your car..
I bought an Explorer ( mountaineer) engine for $400.. My main goal was a good running street engine and to relive my youth with a manual shifting car again..
I did not rebuild the original engine ( its a 1983 GLX vert) as I wanted a roller cam and a one piece main seal.....
The GT40P heads were on the engine, so I installed new beehive springs, vicron seals and had the machine shop do a simple valve job..
I bought an Explorer ( mountaineer) engine for $400.. My main goal was a good running street engine and to relive my youth with a manual shifting car again..
I did not rebuild the original engine ( its a 1983 GLX vert) as I wanted a roller cam and a one piece main seal.....
The GT40P heads were on the engine, so I installed new beehive springs, vicron seals and had the machine shop do a simple valve job..
Huh, curiosity got the best of me, I swear these had 2" valves but I got my high tech 30 yr old micrometer, and no it's not made of wood (@limp ) they are in fact 194s. I remember they have springs good up to 600 lift. I'll see if I can find the original paperwork.
Anyway the 194s will work for the torque curve it's gonna operate in, I want to be able to cut through traffic and get away from those spaghetti taco eating non-drivers that seem to ride in packs, when one of them screws up they can take out several non-drivers, likely they have no insurance and/or drivers license and I do have anger issues when it comes to operating a potential death machine,
Don't get me started.
Anyway the 194s will work for the torque curve it's gonna operate in, I want to be able to cut through traffic and get away from those spaghetti taco eating non-drivers that seem to ride in packs, when one of them screws up they can take out several non-drivers, likely they have no insurance and/or drivers license and I do have anger issues when it comes to operating a potential death machine,
Don't get me started.
A few things done, I have a Roadkill approved list I'll post with the pics that may or may not interest the two or three that may still be following.
Heads on, oil pan gasket, checked the header to plug/plug wire clearance, I think, as you'll see in the pics, with the angled boots there should be room, I will add plug boot condoms for added piece of mind, and the look 'race car' cool.
Got a bit of a surprise when I dug the cap and wires from the pile of parts I removed, Accel plug wires????
I know they used to be about the only thing you could get 'back in the day' and actually were good products, I've bashed their coils for years, oh well, time will tell how long they stay, they are red, I would prefer black, I will stick to 8mm wires although they are not needed cept for some extra heat protection.
I'll post up some pics with possibly some witty coments.
Heads on, oil pan gasket, checked the header to plug/plug wire clearance, I think, as you'll see in the pics, with the angled boots there should be room, I will add plug boot condoms for added piece of mind, and the look 'race car' cool.
Got a bit of a surprise when I dug the cap and wires from the pile of parts I removed, Accel plug wires????
I know they used to be about the only thing you could get 'back in the day' and actually were good products, I've bashed their coils for years, oh well, time will tell how long they stay, they are red, I would prefer black, I will stick to 8mm wires although they are not needed cept for some extra heat protection.I'll post up some pics with possibly some witty coments.
85GTStangGuy
Advanced Member
I like those valve covers. want to do the same on my 84 gt350 project.It all depends on what your going to do and want out of your car..
I bought an Explorer ( mountaineer) engine for $400.. My main goal was a good running street engine and to relive my youth with a manual shifting car again..
I did not rebuild the original engine ( its a 1983 GLX vert) as I wanted a roller cam and a one piece main seal.....
The GT40P heads were on the engine, so I installed new beehive springs, vicron seals and had the machine shop do a simple valve job..
You can have his, I know where he parks it and I'm friends with his dog, (that pooch ain't got a lick of sense)
Well, not a real good day today, first got everything cleaned up ready for assembly and only 5 pressure plate bolts
looked for that bolt everywhere 'cept where it's hiding at, you'd think with the containers of mustang related 'stuff' I would have ONE! Nope! A couple were close but nope. Nothing local so I found some Ford Racing clutch bolts on Amazon, go figure, be here Sunday, 22 bucks, so I put everything away and ventured into the home office to load the pics into the big screen, a-n-d the computer and the fone no talkie to each other, plugged directly in....... charging ........... Tried different plug, nope 
..... charging........ that's it.Could not even get the pics stored on the computer to come up. WTF..
I'll figure it out, me and tech definitely have a love/hate relationship, tech loves to make me hate it.
Anyway, use your imagination, picture me underneath the car banging my head against the bottom of the transmission with the hope that when I come to, the missing bolt would have fallen out of it's hiding place.
Well, after much hair pulling I got if done, I went by the instructions with 'phone link on the big screen and it did that 'circle the drain' thing for like hours. this morning I thought I'd start fresh, nope, still twirl'n! so I did a restart, and now everything works the way it used to, I remember both the phone and the big screen just did some update and things get shuffled, oh well, on to some picks:
first lets show a something I discovered installing head gaskets and head, this is an observation now, look behind the sending unit, see that part of the gasket sticking out? that is on both sides, so if there is any question like 'are my head gaskets on right?' all ya gotta do is look for the gasket sticking out at the front. I feel like a pioneer! never heard of anyone observing this, OK, now I know somebody else knew about this and, with a scrunched up face, are say'n 'he didn't know about this?
Looks worse in person, gotta clean that up a little and swap that TOB.
My RoadKill approved list, sobject to change of course.
some plug boot condoms and this will be OK. Kinda crusty look'n I know.
first lets show a something I discovered installing head gaskets and head, this is an observation now, look behind the sending unit, see that part of the gasket sticking out? that is on both sides, so if there is any question like 'are my head gaskets on right?' all ya gotta do is look for the gasket sticking out at the front. I feel like a pioneer! never heard of anyone observing this, OK, now I know somebody else knew about this and, with a scrunched up face, are say'n 'he didn't know about this?
Looks worse in person, gotta clean that up a little and swap that TOB.
My RoadKill approved list, sobject to change of course.
some plug boot condoms and this will be OK. Kinda crusty look'n I know.
I cleaned up the flywheel and added a smidge of grease to the pilot bearing, got the bolts cleaned up and some 'locktite' on them, wait only five bolts? Now the hunt was on! I know there were six, I put them all in the same tray but i now have an escapee! looked every where it was not, searched for a suitable replacement, a couple close calls but no joy. 
found some Ford Racing bolts on Amazon (of all places) so this is where I wait, be here today (Sunday).
clean and a scuff, good to go.
soon as the bolts get here I'll be ready to torque this down and attempt to install the engine back in it's home, never did it this way before, always pulled engine/trans together, should not be hard, right? we'll see.
found some Ford Racing bolts on Amazon (of all places) so this is where I wait, be here today (Sunday).
clean and a scuff, good to go.
soon as the bolts get here I'll be ready to torque this down and attempt to install the engine back in it's home, never did it this way before, always pulled engine/trans together, should not be hard, right? we'll see.
I knew it!
It's time for a new tablet. Yours is just a couple years beyond the End-of-Life cycle.
There have been a few improvements since you bought that...
Atari Pong, for instance. The screens are color now too.
Forced induction=better gaskets
99% of N/A stuff the Felpro are just fine.
You can get a bump in compression ratio play'n the gasket thickness game but in a street car it negligible.
That's my opinion anyway.
Is that flywheel good to go? Surface looks a little suspect but I’m that guy that will surface one just about every time.
Build is going good and if you are not misplacing or loosing bolts then you aren’t gonna have any fun.
Build is going good and if you are not misplacing or loosing bolts then you aren’t gonna have any fun.
i know it should be resurfaced, never chattered with about 30-40k, I'm not hard on clutches.
and I'm a cheap, back yard hack
have'n fun. That's what I tell people anyway.
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