took head off my 2.3t, No crosshatch shold i hone or do .030 over??

[Willy0314]

so is a 20 overbore good? bad? or just imbetween disaster?

buy a shop manual. A chiltons will tell you what the bore is suppose to be stock, and what all the over bores are supposed to be. It will tell you want the max bore is suppose to be also. The reason you want to bore over a block as little as possible, is because you want to have material left over for the next bore job. A hone is supposed to do nothing but remove glaze.

As far as Hypereutectic pistons go, they are a cast peice. When they are cast they are infused with a higher silicon content then normal. This provides a longer wear life, however not it high performace applications. Dont ever run them with any kind of power adder or high compression. You definatly need to buy a forged set. Especially since your gonna need a serious compresion ratio to make 200hp n/a

 

[T3AL]

thanks

 

[351wcoupe]

Hey willy you're definately on the money when you talk about silicon percentages.
However
I do know of a bunch of people running "Hypers" with power adders. 93-95 lightnings come stock with them.

Its not the force of a power adder or high compression that breaks the piston. Its actually the frequency of the detonation that seperates the silicon within the piston.

 

[Willy0314]

I always thought it was to do with the the higher heat energy that comes with higher HP levels. That the heat caused the piston to expand more?

 

[T3AL]

monkey is confused.

 

[mightypoof]

If your going to go with nitrous then you might as well put forged pistons in there. By the way you are going to be wasting alot of money by uilding an N/A. I should be close to 300 hp at the crank and I am not near the potential of my set up. I have spent about $2000 on engine related parts, and $1200 of that was wasted on my head, which is way over priced. If I were to do a couple simple upgrades (headers, ported lower gutted upper, upgrade turbo) I would be looking at a pretty fast car. Just something for you to think about.

-Josh

P.S.-And I dont have to fill up a bottle for $50+ once a week to go fast, just flip a switch to turn the boost up...

 

[T3AL]

These are my plans, I figure I could build th emotor easyer than doing a swap, finding parts, finding a 2.3t.

Racer Walsh
------------------------------
$279.99 flywheel steel 2.0/2.3 9lbs
$298.00 Wiesco forged pistons for use with 5.7" rod. 9:1 CR. .030" Overbore size.
$192.00 2.3L Roller Cam Followers designed to run on all 2.3L roller cams.
$35.25 retainer set 2.3 type a
$49.49 valve spring set 2.3 type a
445.00 Crankshaft 2.5 stroker 3.401" stroke. This is a small main crank. It uses the stock 2300 rod bearing. Fully counter weighted.
$199.95 Cam Sprocket Round Tooth Conversion Kit
$137.98 Stage #3a Mech Flat Tappet. Lift @ .050" - .510". Dur @ .050" - 264
$163.95 Header 4 cyl 79- Mustang (2 1/2)
$335.00 dis-2 ing system
$348.00 Crower Sportsman Connecting Rods 5.7" Capscrew Set of 4

Summit Racing
--------------------------------
$319.95 MSD DIS 2 Ignition


Head work
--------------------------------
3 Angle Valve job $70
30 over bore $48

 

[Stinger]

So you are going to spend 2500+ on a n/a motor that will make MAYBE 140hp to the wheels and you say that is easier than doing a turbo swap that will make AT LEAST 170rwhp in stock form?

 

[T3AL]

I can get an eletric supercharger for about 200$ and it can run up to 30psi.

iam a ferm beleaver that if your gonna build a motor have strong inturnals.

 

[mightypoof]

An electric supercharger for $200 that runs 30 pounds? What kind of CFM does it blow?

SIGN ME UP..Screw my turbo if I can supercharge it for that cheap, right?

 

[mightypoof]

oh dont waste the money on the RW followers I bought them and they are the exact some ones as the stock Ford.

I want to help ya out a little. If you want to do big things with this motor (cam, headers, I imagine intake, electric SC) Then you should port the head and intakes. Look in to a Large Valve conversion as well. Its anywhere from $100-$150 for the valves and then double that for the mechine shop work. Sounds like thats pocket change to you, but it will give you big gains.

 

[T3AL]

oh dont waste the money on the RW followers I bought them and they are the exact some ones as the stock Ford.

I want to help ya out a little. If you want to do big things with this motor (cam, headers, I imagine intake, electric SC) Then you should port the head and intakes. Look in to a Large Valve conversion as well. Its anywhere from $100-$150 for the valves and then double that for the mechine shop work. Sounds like thats pocket change to you, but it will give you big gains.

Ok I found out the ESC thing was bogus it only adds up to 30hp*yank yank*(that rat bastard, a 30lbs ESC would be nice).

Thanks for the info on the enlarging the valves I compleatly forgot about that.


So stock followers and lifters be good enought or do you know where I can find solid lifters? Cause I dont like the idea of having to readjust anything esp with a high lift cam.

So I will add the larger intake valves to my list and iam gonna have to find what size for the exaust valves?

Machine work here is cheap....thats about the onlything that is cheap.

All tha thas to be done at a shop is 3angle/large valve job and a 30 overbore the rest my friend will assemble the motor for a case of beer.

So after all this is said and done what kinda HP/TQ am I looking at?

 

[Willy0314]

Your going to need to get everything balanced and blue printed when its put together..Your gonna need to turn alot of rpms and things wont last long at 9000rpm if its not built right...The car most likely wont be driveable below say 3500 rpm. Its too heavy of a car, with too little HP and too much cam to be streetable.

You might make maybe around 150 to the wheels....if your lucky. Not to bash on you, but being that your having a friend put the motor together, im going to gather that you've never built a motor or done much of this before. It sounds like your just window shopping the racer walsh catolog. Those parts that they carry, are for circle track cars. Light weight cars, that scream around wide open throttle. They dont work well for stop and go driving. If your really set on spending all of this money, save it up and either sell the 4cyl and get a v8 car, or look around and get a turbo car and swap the motors. It might take 5 months of looking but you will find one. Say you bought a $500 TC. right off the bat, for $500, you get 200hp, something like 250tq, bigger brakes and swap bars, and disc brakes in the back. even if you have to spend another $500 to get it towed / shipped to your house, its still less then half price what you plan on spending now.

 

[Willy0314]

Ps: dose the block need to be clearance with the stroker crank? thats another $250 or more

I would invest in an ARP bolt set. The old bolts strech and weaken, if you wanna run 9000 rpm you can't skip anything.

also I would get some high quality gaskets.

Lastly, what do you plan on using to tune the motor with? I know the stock computer wont be able to handle it, and i think it has a rev limiter. If you get stuck buying say a F.A.S.T. system, they are ultra expensive.

 

[TurboFlush]

You say that a swap wont work. OK so build one then!!! I hope you dont think that only Ford can build a Turbo Car.

Right now I am building a custom 2.0 (pinto block)turbo. I plan on it pushin around 300-350 rwhp. It is taking me slightly longer because I am using some more expensive parts and have to get alot of it custom built. but I will have a turbo car once again.

as far as that electic blower. dont waste the money. I think this is the scam going around that is just a boat bilge pump to evacuate water out of the engine room.


TF

 

[351wcoupe]

I don't think anybody has mentioned the fact that T3AL listed 9:1 pistons?? Honestly thats going to be a pretty crappy ride. 13:1 and up might come close to making 180-200 flywheel hp. Plus race fuel all the time isn't too expensive cause these cars are good on gas. somebody told me that once.

 

[T3AL]

ok much higher compression, lower cam no large exaust valves.

this cam look alright?
2.3 Stage #2PLUS Mech Flat Tappet. Lift @ .050" - .450" Dur @ .050" - 252


even if I get to 200hp (which is what iam looking for) all i got to do is get more topspeed gearing.

I road race so high hp numbers are not what iam looking for, handling is.

find myself a centrifugal supercharger and craft it to work, then get the computer redone.

200hp and what ever torque I will be happy.

also noone has answered that question, what kinda torque would I be looking at?

 

[TurboFlush]

torque is generally a little above the HP on these motors, but it all depends on how you build the motor.

I woul dlike to see the Supercharger. I thought someone was building a supercharged 2.3 on here at one time?? dunno.

TF

 

[T3AL]

I was thinking maybe a paxton novi 1000 and run it at 6 PSI.

 

[mightypoof]

The stock followers are fine, you can purchase solid lifters from RW but the cam needs to be made for them. I also believe Esslinger makes solid lifters.

You dont want too high of compression if you plan on supercharging this beast. Supercharging is forced induction the same as Turbocharging.

Have you looked into some kind of air charge cooling system? This is some relative unexpensive horsepower that can be freed up really easily. I tend to like the idea of an alchohal injection system over intercoolers of nitrous. I like this becasue it doesnt loose its ability to cool at high temps and is inexpenisve to refill.