I finally started my car up with the Trick Flow street heat H/C/I kit. It comes with the Twisted Wedge heads, stage 1 cam, and street heat intake. I'm also running 24lb injectors, 73mm C&L MAF, Kirban AFPR, stock throttle body, and 255lph fuel pump. When I first started the car, it barely idled, which I guess is normal for a new cam. After a little while it idled normal between 600-700rpms. I put the timing at 14, adjusted the TPS, and set the FP at 32psi. Then I drove it around. It was fine until I came to a complete stop at a red light, the car kept dying whenever I was stopped, which is strange cause it never did it when it was idleing in my driveway. I had to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it idleing. Then I stopped off at a parking lot, cranked the idle up to 800rpms, still died. I tried cranking it up to 1000rpms, but it would jump up to 1200rpms. It runs fine at 1200rpms, but that seems a little high to me. What do you think I should do? Thanks for any suggestions!
Trick Flow H/C/I installed- now idle problems!
- Thread starter 1992blkGT
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This is the standard idle prob with cam. I did the idle adjust with IAC unhook and set idle to 900 w/ my combo. Had to turn the base screw up so far that I had to make the slots on TPS longer to get right voltage. I eded up get the idle adjust plate (got mine from 50resto) and redid the whole idle set deal. It has finally found its spot and that is right arounf 1000, but with base at 900 it doesnt have a whole lot of room to surge. Remember every time you turn base idel screw you change TPS setting. As was mentioned make sure your IAC motor is clean
Bill
Bill
88stangmangt
Active Member
ya new cams are always a problem for the first 500 miles or so i would also drill a 1/8th inch hole in the throttle body plate this will help eliminate the dieing when comeing to a stop at a red light.
Well I somehow got the idle to stay at around 800-850rpms. It sometimes drops lower when I come to a stop, but only to like 700-750 and then comes back up. Not enough for it to die. The only problem now is whenever I start it up. Doesn't matter if the car's been sitting for an hour or a minute, it still idles like crap when I start it up. The idle jumps from like 500 to 900 and I have to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it from dying. Really not that big of a deal honestly. Even if I can't fix that problem I wouldn't complain too much. I'll be buying a 75mm Accufab throttle body (going to be supercharged in the summer) and EGR, and an 80mm Pro-M is on its way in the mail. We'll see how it runs then! I don't know if I want to be drilling a hole in a brand new $270 throttle body. Anyway, thanks for all your help!
5.0 HOtrain
Founding Member
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
The 38-40 spec is with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged. On a stock engine, there is enough vacuum to pull the pressure down to about 32 once the vacuum line is hooked back up. With a cam, idle vacuum is significantly reduced, especially with the idle down around 700, which artificially raises the fuel pressure at idle making things richer. Over time, the car's ecu will 'learn' about this, and adjust the pulse width at idle to lean things out a bit. So one of the best things you can do is to drive the car a good bit -- let the computer relearn what it's got to do with your new combo. But you'll help it if you can get the idle speed up a bit to create more vacuum at idle. Of course, that's a problem too as the computer tries to control the speed at the factory preset 672 rpm, and some computers are more resistant than others at letting that idle speed be set higher. If you're supercharging, you're gonna need a chip to get the most out of your combo. I'd hook up with a burner now, and go ahead and make some of the changes that will help with the cam for now (up the idle speed in the computer is the best way); and then other mods can be made when you add boost. By the way, the cold start parameters can be changed to help with your cold start issues.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Have to be careful about generalizing, but if all else is equal, the wilder the cam, the LESS vacuum at idle, not more. The milder the cam, the more vacuum at idle. Yes, chips/tuner/tweecer can significantly improve low speed drivability, etc. Just be sure you pick someone that really knows what they're doing. I wouldn't do a mail order chip. Pick someone that you can physically take the car to - so you can install, drive, adjust, etc. The wild card here is the combo - if you've just got a mismatched combo, or one that makes so much power up top that it's just very weak on the bottom, well, there's only so much a chip can do.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
I'm the wrong one to ask about a combo like that - I'd do a separate post and ask the guys that are running it. I know more about milder combos. I'm old - I like lots of bottom end; don't want to have to rev it to scoot. I think the Cobra intake will work fine - you might pick up a bit more with the TW intake, but for me it wouldn't be worth shelling out the extra bucks.
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