Window stuck in DOWN position...can I get it up manually?

PlusP

New Member
Aug 30, 2005
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How can I get my driver's side power window back up until my replacement parts arrive?

I have searched all the related threads, but have not found an answer that helped.

I am ordering replacement parts from 50Resto. I would prefer to have my window back up until the parts arrive and I have time to do the install.

1) Switches work on driver/pass sides - I can see the voltmeter move when I operate them.
2) No noise/movement at all from motor
(Is there a way I can manually "roll" the window up?)

I hope it doesn't rain soon. :Damnit:

The car is a 1993 GT. I am ordering 2 motors, new switches (driver/pass.) and just about all window related parts so I only (hopefully) have to do this one time...for a while at least. :)
 
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As stated above, try hitting the motor with something. Sometimes you can free them up and itll work again for a while. As far as taking them apart, Im pretty sure theyre guillotine like and have caused many a bloody mess so be careful.
 
its actually not that hard to get up if its not working.
1. just take the door panel off, so you can access the window motor.
2. take the 3 bolts out of the motor that secures it to the bracket.
3. after this, i would go ahead and test the motor again, just take the 2 wires, touch one to - battery, and one to + battery, if it doesn't work switch wires and try again, if it still doesn't work...its probably bad.
4. but at this point, you can just pull the window up by your hands.

i had the same problem with my windows...i had bought the car...and it had been sitting for a couple of years....and the motors would not work. but once i removed them from the bracket, and put some juice to them...they worked...i guess they were just froze up.
hope this helps
 
Apparently this is a real common problem with our cars.
I just fixed mine on both sides and I have no experience with this stuff. There are 3 plastic bearings inside the motor that get old and cracked and eventually just fall apart. Take the door panel off(haynes manual). Remove those 3 bolts and the motor should slide DOWN to disengage the teeth. then it will be free to pull out. (Once it's disengaged even a little you can grab the window and pull it up to solve the short term rain problem). Once you pull the motor out you can test as described above on your car battery if you want. Either way I'd still pull the little C clip off the gear(use 2 paper clips or small nails or thumbtacks to pry it apart) and then with a screwdriver pop the cover off. Then you'll see the 3 bearings I was talking about. They just slide right out. Very easy. They sell replacements at Autozone for $8/set of 3. The only slightly hard part is getting that little C-clip off. Patience grasshopper... Assembly is reverse and even easier. You might get some fresh grease for the gear when you put them back in the doors. Just don't get the left/right motors mixed up! I spent 2 hours trying to wedge the wrong motor in the wrong side!!! Very frustrating. Good luck.
 
jimrstang said:
its actually not that hard to get up if its not working.
I hear there are blue pills that take care of that quite easily. :D Sorry, I couldn't help myself. After reading the title of the thread, I was in the gutter. :bang:

Very good suggestions and fixes listed here. :nice:

One other possibility. Open and close your door a little, or massage the articulated boot in the door jam. THe wires in there get brittle from all the articulation and sometimes it takes goosing the wires just right to reachieve continuity (fix it when you can, but at least you'd know a way to deal with it for now, if that's it).

Good luck.
 
Thanks for all your helpful advice. On the way to work, the window miraculously went back up. Thank God because rain is in the forcast in the next couple of days. :hail2: Once all my new parts come in I should be trouble free...for at least a few months! :rlaugh: (...till the next problem pops up.)
 
When you have the three bolts removed, the regulator is holding the motor in place, you need to wiggle the motor and try pulling down/pushing up on the regulator arm to loosen the motor.

Tomorrow go to your local parts store and ask them for a window motor rebuild kit, or "window motor bushings", they will be in the help section. It will be three round bushings. Remove your motor and remove the gear cover that is held on by a screw. Pop the gear out of the motor and clean out all the peices of your broken bushings. Put the new bushings in place and put the motor back together.
 
well i took it out... put it back in, still didnt work, (mind you i had tried swapping the switches first). So i tried the switches again and it started working. What a loopy POS. ima get all new switches tomorrow if it goes out again ill pull the motor. thanks fett
 
I've had the same problem numerous times. Wish I would have known about those rebuilt kits. I spent $80 plus dollars for a new motor to find that all was wrong was the plastic bearing inside. I think I bought a replacement for a few bucks later on.

Anyhow, I have a new motor installed and now when it gets to the top, it grinds. I don't know why. Never did it with the original/1st replacement motor. It worked fine for the first two weeks, now I have to watch as the window moves up and just bump it when it gets to the top. Otherwise it will just round itself off, I assume.

What tells the motor that the window is up and to quit engaging?

Luckily for you '87-93 cars, try finding some replacement window switches for an '86. I haven't found a drivers side one yet. Local junk yards don't keep cars longer than seven days, so what's my chances of one popping in.

Anyone have a remedy for my problems?

Is there a retrofit kit for powerwindows to traditional roll-up style?