List of questions here...

Arrow

New Member
Aug 18, 2008
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This is my first post on stangnet. As I have a '98 GT I have lurked the forums for awhile and found quite a bit of useful info to help me through some tough automotive times. Didn't figure I used Stangnet enough to actually become a member. But I made a purchase two days ago that will ensure it. So, firstly, I appreciate all of the inadvertent help you guys have given me. ( For the past few years...) Everything from rear-differential to the Mach 460 sound system. I never joined because I didn't really care if I destroyed the car or not, but you guys kept me from blowing it up.

Now, I care. I know a fair amount about cars but I'm in way over my head on this.

What I bought: 1973 Mach 1
Engine: 351C 4V
Transmission: 4-speed (Don't know what type or how to figure it out.)
Transmission, Engine and Chassis VIN match.

The receipts that came in a giant folder extended from 1978 to 2005. The guy overhauled the engine every 10 years and changed the oil every 2,500 miles regardless of wether it had been driven. As far as the mileage goes, it has 89,000 with a book that details everything he ever did to it.
QUESTION 1 Is this is what is referred to as 'documented miles'? If not, is there value in keeping this information? When I say he kept all of his receipts, there are some for touch-up paint ($0.25), and gaskets all the way up to engine mods.

The interior of the vehicle looks like 1973. One rip in a seat and slight ligtening of the carpet behind the driver's seat and that's it. All leather is supple and shining, all chrome, stitching, emblems and guages are in perfect condition. The original 8-track is still in it and works. The cigarette lighter has never been used, but works. I understand how much restoring the interior of the vehicle means, but the guy who owned it kept it in a garage and methodically cleaned and polished everything. Floorpan's are solid and I don't know if I should lift the carpeting to check for rust.
QUESTION 2 Is there a repository of information or photos that I could compare this Stang to to make sure it's up to snuff?

I gather that the engine has been modified by reading receipts. Everything from a Lunati Cam, Holley 4bbl double-pump carb (I understand this is a carburator and it's function but I'm not sure what the terminology means...), Rhoads Lifters (Stickers for all of these things on the back windows... as well as Summitt Performance Parts...?). He has a detailed list of everything purchased for the overhauls he performed in 1978, and 1987.
QUESTION 3 Modded like this, is the engine still considered original? From the looks of it the only thing that shipped from the factory that's still in the engine compartment is the block.
QUESTION 4 There is no AC unit installed, but I can see the boltholes where it belongs. Is it possible to get an AC unit that would match the original, and should I bother?

The body has seen a bit of damage. Hood will have to be replaced as something caused it to crease in the front. I was told that he 'blew' the hood, meaning it flew off during vehicle operation. When reinstalled, retaining pins were also installed...) There is rust around the rear fender wells. Betweent the rear of the fender well and bumper, the underneath is rusted away almost completely.
QUESTION 5 I was told not to Bond-O (Yeah, I'm from the trailer park, where mechanics need only Bond-O and electrical tape...), but to basically cut the rear quarterpanels off and weld on new ones. Is that the case?

Lastly, I'm not sure what purpose the car will serve. Would it be capable of being a show car? An original? What kind of stuff do I need to be paying attention to? As this is a used 'Stang what do I need to be looking out for in general?

I appreciate any help you could give,

Arrow


-=EDIT=-

Heya guys, was told pretty much point-blank that asking questions like above made me look like an idiot and that was why I've gotten no responses. Fair enough, lol! I'm going to start restoring this car and utilizing whatever information I can find. My area of expertise is in keeping modern cars running and I know nothing about the specs and details of restored cars. So I've just jumped off into it. I intend to learn as much as I can about the '73 Q code and hopefully, but the time I come to a problem I can't figure out I won't come off as such a noob. I appreciate the fact that you guys didn't flame me right off for this post. Look forward to earning your respect in the future.

Cheers!

Arrow
 
it would help to answer your questions if you could post some pics of the car, especially the problem areas but overall shots of the exterior, interior and engine compartment will help considerably. some of your lack of knowledge of the terminology can be overcome that way as well.
 
good questions - may be too many though

Heya guys, was told pretty much point-blank that asking questions like above made me look like an idiot and that was why I've gotten no responses. Fair enough, lol! I intend to learn as much as I can about the '73 Q code and hopefully, but the time I come to a problem I can't figure out I won't come off as such a noob. I appreciate the fact that you guys didn't flame me right off for this post. Look forward to earning your respect in the future.

Cheers!

Arrow

I don't think these are stupid questions, there were just a lot of questions. I would suggest breaking them up to separate posts, that way a body expert can tell you what they think about the panels (I would recommend pics), and an AC guy (probably not the same guy) can answer questions about that, and so on.

You said you were a noob and wanted to learn, there is nothing wrong with that.

There are fewer people around that have done extensive work on the '71 - '73 models because a lot of the parts were not available until recently - and they still are more costly than parts for a '65 - '68 model.

But - there are people around who can answer your questions. I had a '71 Mach 1 for about 12 years, but it has been a while so I am rusty on my knowledge.

It sounds like you have a complete car that needs considerable body work - see if you can get some pictures up and it will get some attention.

One more thing - I am not sure how many people lurk on this board who know the '71 - '73 ins and outs, you may consider looking at 1965-1973 Classic Mustangs - Vintage Mustang.com since their forum is dedicated to '65 - '73 models.
 
WELL! 2 weeks since original post and I must tell you, I've learned so much about this car I'm staggered by what else I don't know.

Pics at the end of the post.

The specs:

This IS Q code. VIN numbers were apparently casting dates on the block back then. 4 speed hurst transmission, Holley 4777-4 (4150 model double-pumper). I've destroyed the carb, cleaned the buhjeebus out of it and undestroyed it. Had a problem with the bowls overfilling, but I'd just installed the floats wrong. Set the fuel level, idle and mixture and the car was ready for a test drive. After some fine-tuning the mix, everything was great. Parked the car.

While the car was running, I had smoke coming from the rear passenger exhaust manifold (car had true-dual, not sure if that was stock). Looked like the gasket was melted and bubbling. Power steering unit works fine, but only when it gets some fluid into it as the hose is spraying fluid everywhere. Parts store says they'll have to special order.

Answering my own questions, I was told if the block is original, it's considered 'number's matching' but without OEM parts, there's no showing it in original class. Fine with me. After much thinking, this is my dream car and 90000 miles or not, I intend to drive it recreationally so I'm not gonna be all hellbent restoring it to original condition. Previous owner installed so many mods I don't know if I CAN restore it without sinking the value of the car back into it.

What I've done so far:

a. Rebuilt the carb with the Holley trick kit. Replaced gaskets, power valve, needles/seats, cleaned everything, cut off the choke butterfly.
b. Changed positive battery cable to starter relay, negative cable to ground (on block), cleaned all contact points.
c. Changed starter relay.
d. Changed all fuses.
e. Oil change and coolant flush.
f. Flushed brake lines.
g. Flushed fuel lines.
h. Changed all worn/cracked hoses
i. Inspected/cleaned all brake components.
j. Repaired all throttle-related mechanics. (Everything from the pedal to the carb had some wear or damage.)


PICS:

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I'm assuming I'll have to cut off the rear quarters. Looks like the PO (previous owner) did some patchwork to the fenders so those'll have to go too. The driver door probably needs to be adjusted, but the floorpans, trunkpan, seem to be in good condition. As far as the engine, I don't have any close-ups, but the engine's in fair condition and the tranny operates smoothly.

Next project will be figuring out the electrical problem. And no, those aren't real liscense plates ;)

-=EDIT=- Power problem fixed. Just as I was thinking I'd learned a few things. Connected the cables to wrong side of starter relay. Switched em around, everything works. Next project: Clutch. You'll notice in one of the above pictures that the clutch pedal is consistantly 1/2 way depressed. You can pull it out with your foot, but all the way back in when you shift. I have considered a return spring or perhaps checking out the linkage, just don't like having to go that far to shift.

THX for being patient guys!